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casting clear parts

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  • casting clear parts

    Anyone ever cast or replicate clear parts like windshields, headlight lenses, etc?

    I've tried searching this site and a few plastics companies (smooth-on and alumilite) with no real solution. Everything I've found has been for industrial use.

  • #2
    no expert but I think most clear stuff is vacuum formed, it is possible to do this yourself and there are many online resources that have how to's.

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    • #3
      I have recently got into body casting and am enjoying the handcraft that it involves.
      Creating windscreens is usually done by vac forming although I have seen parts cast in a clear resin...windscreens etc.

      The search continues for the rght materials. They are out there.

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      • #4
        I think the problem is bubbles! You can always fill bodywork but clear is a problem.

        I was actually going to work on some windshield options this weekend. Maybe I will post my failings.

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        • #5
          I have cast some clear parts using clear resin. To ensure that all air is out of the resin it needs to pressure cast, also the cure time is much longer. The process is the same as casting bodies. BUT be carefull when removing the parts from the mould many clear resins take a long time for the final cure on the surface,so finger marks can show easily. I usually allow for some spruce from the vent holes so the part are easy to handle.

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          • #6
            I just can't see vac-forming a small set of headlights as feasible, or even cost effective for a scratch builder..

            Has anyone considered making a silicone mold of said part(s), and "painting" or pouring a clear epoxy onto the said mold, utilizing a releasing agent?

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            • #7
              phil, by pressure cast, how do you accomplish this, and how much pressure do you apply? What resins are you using?

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              • #8
                I have cast resin headlights of different models but for a clear headlight look I use a disc of aluminium, punched out of a thin sheet, then a small blob of "five minute" epoxy/araldite put on the surface. Just enough to fill the circle gives a raised curved look.

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                • #9
                  I think I need to clarify, I'm not necessarily talking about just headlight lenses, per se, but the overall head light assembly front. I.E. a Lola T70 MKIIIB lens, with it's fancy molded cover that is integrated into the body, or an LMP headlight lens...

                  I think I "may" have found a resin suitable, but it would seem like you'd have to have a LOT of headlight lenses to have lined up, in order to use even a small amount of the resin...

                  http://www.tapplastics.com/product/m...sting_resin/75

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                  • #10
                    Sounds like a two piece casting would be needed...the lense cover in clear, the headlights in either solid or clear.

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                    • #11
                      I use a resin from a local supplier here in Australia. But search for clear or embedding resin should produce results for smaller Quantities, also check YouTube for tutorials.
                      I usually cast between 15 to 30 PSI in my pressure pot.
                      I also vac form a lot of clear headlight covers for my resins. I simply add the moulds to the glass mould and form it all in one.
                      As for your example of buckets and lights, I have done this type of assembly.
                      Headlight buckets are vac formed with the interior platform using styrene, head light covers vac formed in clear along with the glass and the head light themselves are resin cast in clear and chrome tape used to add a backing to the lens.

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                      • #12
                        No pressure, no pressure pot - simple casting in two part silicone moulds.



                        Roland

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                        • #13
                          Those look great. Now, what did you use? I have tried to cast clear parts in the past, but I always got a lot of bubbles, or a more opaque looking result. Inquiring minds would like to know, it will keep me from making a purchase from Mico-Mark of a costly little vacuum unit!

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                          • #14
                            Yes Kosmo, Your stuff looks great. As a part time caster I always cast in glass and paint it black because I can't get clear,,, well, clear. My mind is inquiring too as to what resin you used.

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                            • #15
                              I have casted a few items in the past.
                              I had the best result with Smooth-on for
                              regular resin casting I used their 300 line of products.
                              I also casted a small window for a wagon I did
                              With their clear casting product it comes out clear 200 line
                              If you use a pressure pot or vacuum to get the moisture out. What will matter is how thin the item your casting is
                              I casted the wagon and the rear glass
                              https://public.fotki.com/modelnut/49...49-merc-wagon/

                              I casted the entire car windows were vacuum formed. To thin to cast.
                              https://public.fotki.com/modelnut/datsun1200/

                              I casted the roof and windshield support
                              https://public.fotki.com/modelnut/32-ford-roadster/

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