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3D Printed Bodies - HO

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  • Buster is a 12 lb Yorkie/Shih tzu.





    Buster's daddy looks like this.

    m

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    • Blues Harp player by any chance?

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      • Blues guitar, that's me. Love blues harp tho. Little Walter, Junior Wells. So many more.
        Then there's Magic Dick, from your area,,,,,,,,,, J. Geils rip.

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        • Didn't realize Magic Dick was from Connecticut area. Amazing harp player. I play diatonic and Chromatic.

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          • Local boy, New London, CT.

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            • So in case everyone hasn't heard the news by now, the real reason so many linked images are now broken is because Photobucket simply decided to change their name in order to better communicate with their long-time users and paid subscribers. The new name is shorter, and easier to remember. As long as you don't misspell it.

              Last edited by Highwingpilot; 07-17-2017, 09:43 PM.

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              • Thanks for the clarification Jim. I did some snoopin' around .... their parent company is FarQ. Interestingly they are a subsidiary of Bastages Inc. I shoulda known.

                All the best,
                Michael.

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                • Here's a sped up video (10x) showing the basic process of modeling a car from scratch - starting with a cube and dividing and extruding areas to shape it into a body. This one will never see the printer... but a number of guys have asked me about the techniques used.

                  [YOUTUBE]Lhq5BCPCKG4[/YOUTUBE]

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                  • Thanks for doing this and posting it.
                    A fair amount of work it is...

                    Mike

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                    • Originally posted by Mike- View Post
                      Thanks for doing this and posting it.
                      A fair amount of work it is...

                      Mike
                      It can be... when you get into the details.

                      But the basic modeling goes fairly quickly.

                      Just got in my test print for the Auburn-inspired Concept Car. This thing is slammed super low on the Mega G/G+ chassis. Will also fit the SL2 and BW1 (Mag) chassis. With a couple of coats of primer, sanding and paint, this should clean up nicely. Super light too, should make for a nice handling car.















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                      • Very cool design. Can you bump that up to 1/32 scale ?

                        Why does your car look like a snow ball, when others look much more smooth?
                        I got a 3D body from a guy a while back that he did for me. I's got a very "fine line" surface finish. Just a little light sanding and one coat of primer/sealer, and the surface is nice and smooth (it's staying light grey primer).

                        Is it the "cost" of the machine, a machine setting, the type of plastic, combination of ?

                        Mike

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                        • Originally posted by Mike- View Post
                          Very cool design. Can you bump that up to 1/32 scale ?

                          Why does your car look like a snow ball, when others look much more smooth?
                          I got a 3D body from a guy a while back that he did for me. I's got a very "fine line" surface finish. Just a little light sanding and one coat of primer/sealer, and the surface is nice and smooth (it's staying light grey primer).

                          Is it the "cost" of the machine, a machine setting, the type of plastic, combination of ?

                          Mike
                          This is the sintered nylon print from shapeways on a bloody expensive printer. This material has a slightly gritty surface when raw out of the printer.

                          There are smoother materials available. Like stereolithographic resins. They come out with an amazingly smooth finish. But just like some cast resins, they can be a bit more brittle. The sintered nylon on the other hand is very lightweight and more flexible, making it ideal for car bodies and chassis. They just require a couple of coats of primer/filler. I use Rustoleum's rattle can primer filler, two light coats. Sand with fine paper. One or two more light coats with a progressively finer sand between. I usually finish off with a 800-1000 grit wet sand. And the bodies come out glass smooth. Like this 427 Roadster:

                          First coat & sand:


                          Additional coat or two before final sanding:


                          Color coat:


                          Earned her stripes:


                          After clear coat:


                          Here's a quick video showing the flexibility of the nylon bodies. They are virtually crash proof:
                          [YOUTUBE]QfnrB2Io9mc[/YOUTUBE]

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                          • HWP -

                            Have you determine whether the Cobra will fit on a Mega G+ body that has had the wire and solder blob removed from the can motor?
                            Congrats on the great work!

                            Mark


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                            • Originally posted by mowyang View Post
                              HWP -

                              Have you determine whether the Cobra will fit on a Mega G+ body that has had the wire and solder blob removed from the can motor?
                              Congrats on the great work!

                              Mark

                              Hey Mark, Thanks for the kind words! I think it may fit, but I haven't tried because I don't want to unsolder one of my cars to test it. Instead, I made a unibody version that has an integrated chassis that the motor and other bits fit into to. I prefer running braids over pickup shoes anyway, so it hasn't been a concern. And I didn't want to to have to distort the body to fit a chassis... that was the whole point behind the HWP-SL2 chassis in the first place. But I will have to test to see if it fits on other platforms like maybe the venerable Viper chassis.

                              Thanks again for the compliment!

                              Best,

                              - Jim

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                              • Thanks for the response, Jim. Do you know how much clearance there is between the body and the chassis when installed on a Mega G? I recall seeing the difference in the height of the Mega G+ and the Mega G someplace on the web. Knowing how much clearance you engineered into the body may help me determine whether it will fit on a MG+.

                                The answer to another question may also help. What is the thickness of the body at the point where the MG+ motor sits? I assume the lowest point is underneath the driver and interior. If the body doesn't fit in its stock form, I'm hoping that I might be able to grind away a bit inside of the body in order to make it fit.

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