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Fall 2014 Series: BBR Ferrari F430

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  • Fall 2014 Series: BBR Ferrari F430

    Earthbound found a great deal on the BBR Ferrari F430 white kit and pitched the idea of a single-make/model series at the last DRAWW meeting. The cars were a heck of a deal, and sounded like a lot of fun, so we all went for it. At a short meeting today, he brought the cars and a few of us fiddled around with them, including a quick build and chip job by yours truly. As it turns out, the motor isn't too much for a stock Scalextric F1 (C7005) SSD chip... at least as long as you don't make the gear mesh too stiff, and break the motor in a little at first. With a little talking and testing, we decided to go with slot.it F22 tires for the rear. The car performs very well with very little work, and the motor doesn't even need a ferrite man for reliable running in digital mode. For anyone who missed out on our group buy, Earthbound says that the ebay seller he got the kits from still has QUITE a few remaining, and the price is hard to beat. As they're all white kits, custom liveries are pretty much a must, and most of us already have an idea of what their car will look like.

    These cars were thoroughly reviewed by Alan several years ago:
    http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/in..._articleid=370

    So, to recap, we're going to be racing:
    - B.B.R. Ferrari F430 Challenge cars.
    - Car must be painted and fully assembled with all parts included, except the traction magnets
    - Any F22 compound tires. Slot.it PT1207, PT27, or BRM S-104 S tires.
    - stock (non-uprated) Scalextric chip C7005 or C7006 (DPR chips C8515 or C8516 chips may be used, but will be harder to install)

    Allowed changes:
    - Motor pod limiting screws may be removed
    - Pod limit screw openings may be reamed for better pod float with limiting screws in place
    - Slot.it set screws may be used, if the BBR ones strip or are not usable.
    - Slot.it 26 tooth crown gear (GI26-AL) may be used if there is a problem with the BBR gear
    - Wheels may be glued to axles, and bushings may be glued to their holders, though on the test car, this did not seem necessary.

    At this point, it doesn't look like weight will be needed. The car performed really well with just the chassis and raw body. With the rest of the parts and some glue to add to the weight, it's possible that there will be no need to add any ballast. We will arrange a proper test and tune to determine this before the series begins.

    Important notes:
    - Be sure to gently run the motor in before chipping the car. Assemble and lubricate the chassis, and get a good gear mesh that's not too snug against the pinion. Run the car in analog mode at a low voltage. You can let the car run around your track, or prop the wheels up, but just let it go for a good 10-30 minutes at low speed, just enough to get the wheels/car moving. Then, run it at about half speed for 5-10 minutes, and then again at medium-high speed for a couple minutes (wheels up for this step, for sure). This will ensure that the motor is nicely broken in and not likely to exceed the chip's power output ability.

    - Truing the tires should not be necessary. The plastic wheels are quite good, so be careful during assembly and there should be no need to true the wheels or tires. Softening the F22 tires is a bad idea, as they will deteriorate much faster if you do. Cleaning with water or tape before a race should be sufficient.

    Anything not listed is not allowed, though changes may come after the next meeting.

    Race format TBD
    Last edited by MrFlippant; 09-11-2014, 08:00 PM.

  • #2
    Hello from the east coast.
    I too stumbled across the BBR Ferrari's on the auction site and bought two of them. If it weren't such a long drive to you guys I'd love to race with you and give digital a try as I have only ever raced analog. If I'm ever in that neck of the woods I'll look you all up and stop by for a little tutorial.
    Good luck with your series and when I get finished with the liveries on my two Ferrari's compliments of Mr. Patto I'll shoot you some pics.
    Again good luck,
    UW

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    • #3
      Cool! Would love to see what you make of your models.

      Comment


      • #4
        Here are a few pics of the first one I am doing. A few touch ups, painting the wheels black and I am adding a wing and it will be finished.
        I have a sheet of waterslide decals and a half sheet, enough to do a complete car, of peel and stick in this livery from Pattos if anyone is interested in them. PM me if you're interested.
        Thanks for letting me share these with you and thanks for looking.
        UW

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        • #5
          Looks great! Production quality.

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          • #6
            As promised here are some pics of the finished products. Thanks for looking and good luck with your series with these very underrated cars.
            UW

            Last edited by urbanwarrior; 08-02-2014, 10:15 PM.

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            • #7
              Fantastic! I'll try to get some photos of our cars when we start the series and post them here.

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              • #8
                Specs amended to allow any F22 compound, as the BRM tires fit much better than the PT1207.

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                • #9
                  We had a light showing for the test and tune at my place yesterday.
                  Only Dave, Jeff, MikeD and myself were present.

                  It was pretty obvious from the start that there were some common issues that needed addressing:
                  1) Front wheel rub - this was due to the front wheels rubbing on the corners of the windscreen. After using a dremel to trim the plastic a bit, the wheels turned freely.
                  2) Some of the cars had issues where the motor pod did not float freely. Removing the limiter screws fixed this.
                  3) Several of us used the axle spacers on the rear wheels. This moved the rear wheels out enough that they rubbed on the fenders when the suspension was compressed.
                  4) LEDs protruding too far below the chassis. It turned out that a couple of us had our LEDs too low and they rubbed on the rails. Unfortunately, this scuffed up the LEDs a bit. Hopefully they will work reliably as we didn't discover this until late.
                  5) Several cars started to loose some of the smaller body parts. I believe most if not all were found. Those with more glue seemed to fare better.
                  6) The BRM tires are quite grippy and caused the cars to tip/roll out of the slot rather than slide. I tried to true mine a little bit only to discover that the tire compound does not like to be trued. It became gummy and resulted in lots of little bits of rubber stuck to the wheel. I will have some work to do to get those tires smooth again. I suggest avoiding truing the wheels unless absolutely necessary.

                  Anomalies:
                  1) MikeDs car/chip was causing some very strange issues where laps and pits were registered to Dave's car. Mike is thinking it may be the result of using an incar pro chip.
                  2) Dave's car had very tight axle holes in his wheels. I had to trim the axles a bit to get the m to fit well. His two cars had about 1/4 of axle slop.

                  Due to the following reasons, I am wondering if we should have one more test and tune before starting this series?
                  1) Several of us still need to address some of the issues mentioned above.
                  2) A couple of the cars were not complete (missing interior and paint or missing chip and tires).
                  3) Only three (out of 8) people were able to really try out their cars.

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    I agree that the next date can be another T&T to iron out these issues for everyone's cars before we start racing. It wouldn't be fair otherwise.

                    I noticed #1. I used a side nippers to clip them off. Less risky than dremel, especially if the interior is glued in like mine was.

                    #2 was known. #3 doesn't surprise me. I don't remember if I used them.
                    #4 I noticed as well, and for Dave's car, I melted/carved a little out of the front axle bracket so that the LED wasn't being pushed down as much. I then put shoe goo in and taped them to be held up into the glue. Were his LEDs ok, or did they rub as well?
                    #5, really? Just from driving around, or were people really tearing around the track and crashing a lot? If they came out just from driving, then yeah... more glue needed. ;-) Don't skimp except where it'll be an ugly mess.
                    #6, yes... I'm sorry you were not familiar with how tricky F22 tires are to true. You have to use a very coarse abrasive, and very low/slow speeds. I'm just planning to leave mine alone. No cleaners or treatments needed. I might not even clean mine often (tape or water) because a little slide might be better than tipping.

                    If MikeD is running InCar-Pro, and it's causing problems for things, then it might be better to rule out ICP chips.

                    Dave's wheels were really weird. They might have had too much glue in them. I had to trim his axles down a little for the rear. I didn't do the fronts 'cus we were short on time.

                    So yeah... next race another T&T. I'm happy to help with the issues listed above, but people do need to properly glue their cars together. They were a great deal, but assembly is the price we have to pay for that deal.

                    Also, I'm running low on spare ferrite men because the used chips we got were a bit abused. I was just glad to get them both running around the track before I had to go. If anyone has spare ones, please bring them to the next race in case cars need them. I might have to order some from Route1Racing at some point, just to have more spares for this kind of situation.

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                    • #11
                      The chip I put in the car was being weird. I doubt it had ICP code in it, since there is no evidence of any wires having been solder to it for uploading. It is one of 6(?) that I bought used from Scott. This was the first one I tried using. Hope it is not representative of the rest.

                      Walked into Raceline, coded chip to ID5. Discovered the motor leads needed to be swapped around. Swapped them and began running the car in practice. Was concerned about LED, as this was a saloon chip with LED on little carrier board, which I mounted fairly high in the chassis (LED does not protrude past lower surface of chassis). Seemed to change lanes and count laps just fine. When we started a practice race, chaos appeared. Found that there was one lane changer that would not respond to my car. Could physically enter the pit lane, but SSDC was showing that it was Dave's car that had done so. Made it impossible to clear penalties or refuel. I tried recoding (again to #5) with no difference. Tried recoding to other IDs but car would not respond. Almost like it is partially coded and no longer able to reset code. We also noticed that it would not run on DC voltage (aka no analog mode operation) leading us to suspect it might have ICP firmware loaded.
                      Last edited by Earthbound; 09-29-2014, 05:19 PM. Reason: woohoo! 1K post!

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                      • #12
                        Sure sounds like the car is ICP.

                        Congrats on your 1000th post.

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                        • #13
                          Series Schedule:

                          Sept 28th - T&T at Mike's.
                          Oct 12th - Greg, another T&T - 2-6pm
                          Oct 26th - Mike
                          Nov 9th - Carlos
                          Nov 23rd - Dave
                          Dec 7th - Greg
                          Dec 21st - Mike
                          Jan 4th - Carlos
                          Jan 18th - Dave
                          Feb 1st - Greg

                          Due to unforeseen issues with getting the BBR cars up and running nicely, it's been decided to have another Test & Tune before we start the series. We want everyone's car running as well as it can, so this coming Sunday at my track will be that T&T. The track will be open the whole time for practice, tuning, and testing, and maybe/hopefully a test race when everyone's car is running.

                          Please make sure as much "model building" stuff is done as possible. We want to be making the cars run well, not building plastic models. We can also use this last T&T to determine our race format for this series, and what features we want to include as well as how races will be conducted.

                          For those who have not yet paid for their tires, please bring cash for that purpose. $5 per set/car of tires. Only one person has paid so far.

                          Because we are having a second T&T, another race has been added to the schedule, which will be the final race, and it's at my track again, because the idea is to have official races twice at each track. Hosts, please ensure that tracks are running properly prior to an event. Preferably, check a week before hand, so that someone can help fix any issues, if needed.

                          This should be a great series with lots of even racing given the performance of these cars. Practice if you can, because they don't drive like most of the cars we're used to.

                          Thanks!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            FYI, since this is the car your running your series with. I saw (bought one myself) the F430 on a certain auction site for 17.00!!! There were more avaialable as of today.
                            Thought I'd share incase you needed extras.

                            Enjoy

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                            • #15
                              Yep. That's the deal we got as well. It's a great car, and hard to pass up if you don't mind, or enjoy, building and painting them. Most of us aren't keen on the build, but the deal was too good to pass up.

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