No announcement yet.

Fly “Riley” D.P. Race Preparation And Tuning

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fly “Riley” D.P. Race Preparation And Tuning

    The Fly Riley is a well made car using very basic slot car construction.

    The car weighs 82 grams, 51 rear, and 31 front. Total weight 450 grams on the Magnet Marshal.

    I totally disassembled the car and inspected all the parts. The wheels are a new idea to me, making a recess where the sprue attaches to the outside of the rim. (photo #1)

    The motor is removed, mounted on a piece of foam, and run at half speed while I am preparing the front wheels.

    I spin the front wheels on the sanding drum in the Dremel at 5000 RPM and hold a mill file across both wheels. This will remove the remaining sprue tips and flatten the parting line on the wheels. (photo #2)

    The tires are installed and they are spun with the Dremel. A piece of 220 grit sandpaper, glued to a piece of flat plastic, is held against both tires to remove the parting line and high spots. (photo #3)

    The chassis is mounted on my tire fixture and the rear wheels are trued up in the same manner as the front wheels. The tires are installed and sanded in the tire fixture with very light pressure on the 220 grit paper. (photos #4&5)

    The car is then assembled and run on the tire sanding skid pad. Two minutes in each direction on the 220 grit side, then five minutes in each direction on the 800 grit side. (photo #6)

    The pickup braids were flared out to make them more flexible. They are then bent flat against the bottom of the guide and given a slight arc so they are below the edge of the flag.

    The only problem I found with this car is the crown gear isn’t centered and the left rear wheel rubs the body. I removed some material from the inside top of the wheel openings, and also added a 0.020” shim to the rear body mount.

    I ran the car 100 laps before testing the motor. The best chassis setup I found was both front screws snug, and the rear screw ˝ turn loose.

    The motor has high torque, low RPM, and needs a lot higher gear ratio on my track for best performance.

    I added Slot it chassis magnets to the outside of the Fly motor to change it’s performance characteristics.

    These are the motor specs and lap times for the three different motor configurations. The motor had 0° advance.


    294 g/cm, 18575 max RPM, 13.7 Watts, 5.94 Amps at stall.

    Average lap time 7.40 seconds, 17.1 feet/second or 11.7 MPH top speed.

    Two external magnets

    264 g/cm, 21063 max RPM, 13.9 Watts, 6.15 Amps at stall.

    Average lap time 7.25 seconds, 18.8 feet/second or 12.8 MPH top speed.

    Four external magnets

    252 g/cm, 22291 max RPM, 14.0 Watts, 6.39 Amps at stall.

    Average lap time 7.15 seconds, 19.3 feet/second or 13.2 MPH top speed.

    The cornering speeds could be slightly improved if left rear tire ran perfectly true, the car had a slight vibration making right turns. The stock tires provided good grip on my semi-gloss latex MDF track.

    The car ran extremely smooth and quiet with the front body mounting screws snug, if the body was loose it would rattle.

    With the motor in it’s stock configuration the brakes were severe, with the added magnets the braking was lighter and made the car a little easier to drive.

    I ran about 100 laps for each of the three motor configurations. The car, without the added magnets to the motor, could probably use a 2.40:1 or 2.50:1 gear ratio for my track.

    Removing 10 grams of total weight for better cornering, the Fly Riley would give any Slot it car all it could handle.

    The best lap times for the Riley are about one to two tenths slower and about one foot/second slower than a stock Slot it 956 with a V12/2 motor.


    Last edited by davejr; 08-25-2008, 04:54 AM.

  • #2
    Dave, it's a really quick car on a plastic or wood track. The one thing we noticed is that the body seems very light -- seems to be a similar plastic to the old Pro Slot Toyota GT1. Do you happen to have a weight for the body?


    • #3
      The body weighs 20.9 grams, body with screws 21.7 grams.

      Two extra Slot it magnets, 2.5 grams.



      • #4
        I have never bheard of adding magnets to a motor. do you just stick them on the can? at any particular spot?


        • #5
          Great review. Thanks for the test results on the motor. That is going on the Motor List. The RPM is no surprise (Fly calls it an 18k motor) but the torque is more than I expected, in the ballpark of a Slot.It Boxer 2 or NC6 (in reality, not the advertised value).

          65 bug -- if you put magnets on the sides of a motor, you can either reduce the magnetic field or increase it, depending on whether the magnets are aligned in polarity with the magnets built into the motor, or in opposite polarity. If they are aligned, they increase the field strength, and you get less RPM, less current draw, less heat, more torque, and more brakes. If they are opposite, you get decreased field strength, more RPM, more current draw, more heat, less torque, and less brakes.
          Last edited by Robert Livingston; 08-25-2008, 05:36 AM.


          • #6

            Thank You.

            The first laps on the track were unbelievable, the motor was at maximum RPM in less than six foot coming out of the turns. I was applying the brakes at the end of the longest straight about a foot from the corner.

            When I tested the stall torque I was so surprised by the results I must have repeated the test a dozen times to make sure I was doing it correctly.

            With the motor at room temperature, the first tests recorded 98 grams @ 4 Volts, 1.98 Amps.

            When the motor was hot it was still recording 95 grams @ 4 Volts.



            • #7

              In order to reduce the torque of a motor, the magnets have to be installed in reverse.

              I let the Slot it magnets be drawn to the motor, that way they attach in the normal manner. I then turn the magnets over and position them over the center of the motor’s magnets. (see photo)

              If I install 4 magnets I use the same procedure, but separate the magnets on each side. ( see photo)



              • #8
                Great information as always, Dave.

                The first laps on the track were unbelievable, the motor was at maximum RPM in less than six foot coming out of the turns.
                That sounds perfect for my modest layout with the long straight being only about 7.5' long - was that at 12V or...???

                Da Vols - Bruce & Harriet & Kali


                • #9
                  Great show, chap!

                  Very nice writeout on the Fly Riley, Dave! Seems like a cool car to have. The pics were very elucidating and gave me a coupla ideas too...

                  Thanx for sharing!



                  • #10
                    It is a very nice car. With the stock tires sanded down, magnets removed and some weight added to the front, it laps nearly as quickly on my 165 foot scaley sport track as my standard, de-magged and silicone shod Fly sidewinders. I did notice that it tends to wind out before reaching the end of my longest straight (about 12 feet), but that isn't a problem.

                    I also noticed that it has very good brakes, but then, that's easily adjusted to taste with the brake pots I have at the driver's station. A nice car all around and I appreciate not having to pay $70 for it.



                    • #11
                      Da Vols

                      I try to keep the high performance cars in the 6.5 to 7.0 second lap time range. I started out at 13.8 Volts, and after close to three years I am down to 10 Volts.


                      When I had seen how severe the brakes were when I ran the first laps with the car, I reduced the braking force on my track by turning down the rheostats.

                      Reducing the braking force slowed the lap times by almost 4 tenths, from 7.4 to 7.8 seconds a lap.

                      Adding the magnets to the motor, reduced the motor torque and increased the top speed, this also lowered the lap times to 7.1 seconds a lap.

                      The long style can motors make 25% more braking force at maximum RPM than they do at stall.

                      The brake force at top speed is close to 360 g/cm when the brakes are applied. Adding magnets to the motor had more benefit in reducing the braking than it did in top speed, and lowered the lap times as an extra benefit.

                      I found that even though they recessed the spure attaching points, there were still high spots on all four wheels that needed to be removed.

                      I also remove the magnets with no measurable effect on the lap times. The only thing I found was removing the rear magnet decreased the maximum RPM by over 300 revs. The 300 RPM slowed the car 0.2 feet/second in top speed.

                      I think I would have to remove at least ten grams of weight before I would see a handling improvement.

                      Last edited by davejr; 08-25-2008, 09:38 AM.


                      • #12
                        Adding weight

                        To keep the car in the slot without adding any weight, carefully spread out the pickup braids and adjust them flat with a slight arc, this works great. (see photo)

                        With the motor making it’s maximum torque, from a dead stop, the car never de-slotted.

                        I did some drag racing tests (acceleration) against my fastest Slot it cars for comparison.



                        • #13
                          Good post Dave!



                          • #14

                            I see your DP finally arrived. Excellent information. Fun car. It seems odd to talk about a really good Fly Car Model car. The detailing on Fly cars has always been very good, but lately we are getting cars that perform well too! It seemed to start with their low-brow version of the Porsche 935 K3 cars. Then cam the Ferrari F40's and suddenly Fly cars became screamers (as in very fast). Now we have a Fly car that is not so fast but handles well and stops (literally) on a dime with or without magnets.

                            It sounds like the only real worries with this release is the crown gear and its' survivability.



                            • #15
                              Thanks for the information on the magnets! Thanks to you too Davejr for all the information!!!
                              Now, can you race a car like that with magnets on the sides of the motor? Just curious and I cannot wait to try that.
                              The Riley sounds like a pretty good deal for the money! So, what is it lacking? Detail in the interior?