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Your #1 Tuning Tip - Time To Cough It Up!

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  • #76
    Are you speaking of turing silicones or urethane tires, or just rubber ones. I read somewhere that you shouldn't true silicone or urethanes. What is your experience. I'm new to this, and still searching.


    • #77
      Check you chassis/axle alignments on a chassis jig. Whether it is home made or purchased. Alignments can be off a degree here and a degree there and cause the car to handle poorly. A little shaving on a bearing carrier and a wedge of paper thin plastic can bring it all back where it should be. The same goes for ride height; equal on each side.


      • #78
        you can true urethanes, I recently found out that it is best to true them with very fine sandpaper, I use a wet'n'dry 1200 paper - this gives the tyres a nice polished look. I also wipe them with a damp cloth or put a drop of water on the sandpaper to finish them off. You can hit them with a heavier paper first if you want - maybe 400 or 800 and then finish with the 1200

        I have heard of people truing silicones but I am not sure why of how successful you would be - the ones I use don't need any truing and the one time I tried it nothing really happened and the car didn't run any better


        • #79
          Thanks for the input. I think I was using much to heavy sand paper to start with.


          • #80
            I can't confess to having read this entire thread so it may be mentioned already but the most valuable tip for someone wanting a fast car- get a reliable timing system and use it.

            I had previously tuned cars with the SSD lap counter and all I could do is get fastest lap. I recently modded up some dead strips and got UR3 working on my track and it's an ENORMOUS help tuning the fleet. You get data, can objectively correlate a good lap, see how close it was to your fastest, see where and how you're losing time on your track, and actually learn how to drive. It was a revelation.

            I highly recommend it.



            • #81
              Originally posted by Robert Livingston View Post
              I set the guide post with about one or two degrees of rake. The top of the post leans ahead of the bottom of the post. This arrangement mean that the guide acts more like a hook as the car slides out, contacting the slot along the bottom edge of the flag. This can only be done if you are building your own guide mount, although I have bent plastic ones down, if they are wobbly, so the rake compensates for the angle you lose due to a poor fit of guide post in its holder. Cars built like this stay in the slot.
              That's strange. Remember the old RussKit slant post guide flags. They had 10 degrees of rake, the bottom leading.

              I always though Jim Russel intended the increased friction of the flag in the slot would slow the car enough to save it.


              • #82
                I like to take the front tires off and replace them with the no grip front tires. I also take the spacers out of the front axle on my Slot It cars. They seem to run better on wood routed track.


                • #83
                  In my vanity I some times work on my cars with out the magnifying glasses that i now need for the fiddly stuff. Well this tips won't make the car faster but it will be easier to assemble and tune.

                  Ever found it tiresome to thread copper braid into a guide? Get the braid flat and as smooth as possible, close to the guide hole measurements. Take clear scotch tape and wrap around the braid, trim with scissors to be thiner than the guide hole and then slide in the scotch tape wrapped braid into the guide.



                  • #84
                    braid science

                    Exellent topic!!
                    I find spending a lot of time with braid tension and length will give smooth power delivery and pickup when sideways- long, soft, and wide parallel to the track surface and pointing at the back of the flag. Making sure the wires are set to center the guide helps too. I flatten a tiny part of the copper thingie on the wire to help get it in the slot with the wire facing the braid then glue
                    the copper thingie to the flag. I have started to tin and drill bulk braid (30mm) to use with lmp style flags and noticed if there is any contact between the braid tops and the flag pivot it will bind the guide and thats bad. I have been cutting up a paper nail file into guide flag width wedges and when I notice flag slop I insert a wedge and press down until the flag turns with no back and forth play then I "goo" it it place great product "goo" good for motor to pod glueing, holds stays flexible to absorb vibration but comes off not like ca types. I figure with all the talk about triangulation the flag and the rear bearings are the main areas to work on
                    thanks cd


                    • #85
                      Tuneup Tips

                      One of the first things for me (after letting the motor run in properly) was to inspect and re-tension the motor brush springs. Unless I missed it I haven't seen it mentioned here.
                      I never had a car where this didn't help.


                      • #86
                        Great thread for someone new to Slot Cars. I had raced RC cars for 30+ years, and had forgotten many tips that were mentioned in this thread. I am finding that set-up for a Slot car is more like tuning RCs many years ago, alot of tips in here that I just overlooked. Thanks.


                        • #87
                          Something I did yesterday because..

                          #1 Rear wheel bushing loose in the chassis! I don't like the permanent nature of supergluing the bushing in. Call it a personality flaw? So I dipped a tooth pick in some super glue and ran the bushing up and down the tooth pick spreading superglue onto the bushing, thus increasing the diameter of the bushing. I did it twice. Then I had to very gently file square the "grove" in the bushing but hey presto now the bushings are tight.

                          I still had to superglue the internal diameter of the bushing to get rid of the axle slop but...

                          #2 One rear wheel had almost 1mm of lateral wobble. Not having a tire truer and because the wheels are too small to run on sandpaper. I ground the end of a broken hacksaw blade square, ground a knife edge on it and used it as a lathe tool to true the wheel. Bingo.

                          Oh the car? Revell Gr.5 BMW 320


                          • #88
                            has anyone heard from Robert recently? I just wonder how he is.


                            • #89
                              1: Log the recorded weights of each car as a baseline and keep a Log Book of any ballast changes or other changes in setup.

                              Really helps if things performance deteriorates or improves and you can go back and look at the exact changes.

                              2: It's already been mentioned, but " Blueprint " the entire car before racing.One thing that gets overlooked is the soldering of the lead wires to the Motor. I often find " cold " solder joints or frayed wires, even on brand new motors. Leads can flex and fray over time as well. This will affect performance of the Motor.

                              Soldering tips for electrical wiring:

                              Add a bit of Electronic solder flux to each motor terminal. A good ELECTRONICS flux is critical in electronics soldering. I use MG Chemicals " No Clean " flux paste in a 10 ml syringe with needle point applicator. The syringe tip makes it super easy to apply. Kestor makes good Electronics flux as well. NEVER use an acid core flux or solder on electrical connections.

                              Use a fine gauge Electronics solder. I use Kestor Rosin Core 60/40 in either .032" or .040" diameter.

                              Use a good HOT iron with a 1/4 inch chisel point. 45 watts is good. A Hot iron makes the job nearly instant and avoids damaging the motor. You should literally be able to de-solder or solder a lead wire to a motor in one second.

                              De-solder the offending wire. Trim of the old end and strip a short clean section. Apply a bit of flux to the wire and quickly " Tin " the wire with fresh solder. I find it's easiest to leave the iron on it's rest with the chisel " flat " facing up. Quickly touch the wire and solder at the same time to the chisel point. Wire should " Tin " in about 1 second of contact.

                              Apply a drop of fresh flux to the Motor terminal and a drop on the Tinned wire end. Add a touch of fresh solder to the Iron tip. Position the wire on the terminal and quickly touch the Iron point to the motor terminal and wire. Solder should melt and flow within about one second. Lightly scrub away any extra flux with a toothbrush. Although this step may not be needed with a " No Clean " flux like MG Chemicals, it does look a bit nicer.

                              DON"T USE YOUR WIFES or GF's TOOTHBRUSH!!

                              Inspect your work. Solder should be bright and shiny with smooth lines and should clearly have flowed into both wire and terminal. Dull joints and a ragged look usually mean that your Iron was not hot enough or that you used too thick of a diameter solder.


                              • #90
                                NEVER use an acid core flux or solder on electrical connections.
                                Does this not conduct electricity?