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Adjustable front axle tips

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  • #16
    All of the non-magnet proxy cars that I have examined, hundreds of them, in the past few years have had front tires that touch at all times. It is best to use tires with minimal grip to reduce rolling resistance. I coat hard rubber front tires with nail lacquer. I have seen a few cars with hard plastic front wheels/tires, those make a great deal of noise.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mike- View Post
      Craig -

      For the least "traction" (or better, "unwanted" friction) in the front, adjust the tires so they either JUST barely touch the track surface or about two pieces of paper (.008") up off of the track. I normally go up about .025"/.030" up off the track.

      This will help reduce the front tire friction in all areas of the track. This will smooth the cornering and enable a little more speed in all areas.

      Mike
      The important thing here is the set up block I guess a piece of track will do if one doesn't have one but..

      3 point or 4/5 point depends on the car in question. Type of track is a factor as well.

      Saloons/sedans have a higher roll centre so can exert more pressure on the outside wheel, which results in more grip not less. Also the inside wheel being unloaded can allow it to skip as there is no differential. (Vanquish excluded).

      For the 3 point idea I use a couple of my business cards. 10 thou

      The nice thing with the adjustment is that one can experiment.

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      • #18
        Allowing the rear wheel to lift (tricycling) has NEVER been a good thing. In 1/24, the wheels can be up, but the chassis tips are close to sliding on the track. Since I believe that rolling tires have less friction than sliding frames, I prefer all four wheels on the ground. Coat the front tires with nail polish and make them rotate independently. If using magnets, the rears should never lift anyway.

        Track condition dictate whether the flag and braids CAN ride hard on the track. Most tracks are never so consistent and smooth to allow the flag to slide completely flat on the surface. Braid CAN be smooth, when a track is well built and new, but age and repairs make for rougher conditions. Copper tape can be very smooth, but solder joints and other repairs disrupt THAT as well. Too many magnets can pull rails up on random parts of a plastic track.

        I like to locate the front axle in tubing if needed to limit front end twist and keep the flag/front wheel plane stabile. The flag and front tire diameter can control the way the front contacts the track. In commercial cars, we use flag spacers to fine tune the 'ride height' for different track conditions.
        Last edited by ramcatlarry; 11-21-2015, 12:15 PM.

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        • #19
          If you are racing without traction magnets I covered the subject in my tuning article: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HdlQ1BKZmtDLWs

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