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Miraculous Transformation (new type of rail/braid treatment)

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  • #61
    Cool. Let us know if it does much good for your wood track. I'd bet it will be great as a braid conditioner.


    • #62
      If you left me some

      I could tell you how good.

      We do not use Braid juice here for many reasons but I am always willing to try it to see if it works.

      Why we do not use the juice is it unglues the braid and I spend more time working on the track than racing. Also somehow juice often gets on the tires ( rubber ) and track which means more work cleaning. You know i love cleaning and have lots of time for that.

      INOX worked amazing on my Digital track, yes Gorp I have a digital Track, and it appears to be an amazing product.

      Not sure of the long term effect of any fluid on sectional track as usually this ends up creating problems at the track joints as fluid and dirt combine to make a non conductive mud which kills conductivity the enemy of Digital.

      But right now my dusty digital track works great without taking it apart and cleaning so from me. But time will, as always, tell.

      Alan Smith
      SCI Owner.



      • #63
        Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Alan.

        In case anyone else was wondering, I stopped by Alan's shop last night and we played around on his little 4x8 SSD track. Remarkably fun for such a small track, that. Alan knew I was coming and spent some of his valuable time clearing stock off the table and dusting off the track. It worked remarkably well for a track in such disuse, actually. Cars went well enough, but a little Inox had them running smoother. We did some rather unscientific tests, but since I was just learning the track and we were doing other things like changing tires and trying other chemicals, I would have to say that the results were inconclusive. It FELT like the cars were running smoother, but I admit that could have been my imagination. Of course Alan and I chatted about all kinds of other things at the same time.

        As for the "time will tell" part, I'm fairly confident it will play out in a positive way. I can't personally vouch for it yet, as I only started using Inox a couple months ago, but the people I learned about it from have been using it for over two years with good results. Their claims of performance boosting proved accurate for me, so I expect the longevity to as well.

        Thanks to Alan for allowing me to interrupt his busy day with a little experimenting. As always it was great meeting up with him and playing with and chatting about slot car stuff.



        • #64
          The real deal.

          Got mine today ( Amazon); absolutely great stuff period.

          My 4-lane Artin layout is (Venture silvered), copper taped, with a Pyramid 25 variable power usually cranked up, so lots of frequent cleaning for carbon build up...

          I've tried everything over the years, Q D Electrical Contact cleaner, WD-40 (of course), Rail Zip, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.

          Using Inox earlier today - just cleaning 2 of the frequently run lanes, and treating braids on a dozen or so cars, proved to be the greatest single boost of power & conductivity I've experienced among everything I've tried. Clearly it was more effective than was the copper tape I applied (tediously), to all four lanes last year.

          Running a 40-year old Airfix Gurney Eagle F-1 car that until now could barely make it all the the way around the track without a push, cruised the track today at reasonable speed - with my variable power on the Professor Motor controller dialed back!

          Other fussy vintage 1/24 scale cars like the K & B Cooper Climax', Atlas BRM's, a Cox 1/32 GT 40, etc., all ran well above standard in speed and cruised through the track sections the are prone to bad connectivity ( I did not do lap time comparisons, but intend to do so, since two lanes have not yet been treated).

          The real test was taking a new Fly Porsche 917 off the base for the first time, lightly coating the braids - but did not spread or otherwise touch the braids...while this untuned 6 year old Fly sounded like a broken sewing machine, it ran hard, and never stopped on very tight corners. On the untreated lanes I can hardly coax that car two feet down my main straight.

          Finally I dropped a few Fly 917's with full NSR running gear...I had to crank back the power like never before to keep them on the track. I think I will use a couple of the converted Fly Porsches, and two 1/24th vintage cars for the timing tests.

          Whatever it is - its great, and I suspect it may have applications beyond the rails where it can make a difference. Perhaps some of you chemists out there can comment on that. Our better slot sponsors would be well advised to stock this product if they can.

          Bye-bye voodo juice.


          • #65
            That's awesome Slipstick! I'm so happy you've had positive results similar to mine.

            On another note, here's something I came up with recently...


            Rather than cotton swabs or paper towels or shop rags, I came up with a simple and inexpensive way to apply INOX (or any other rail cleaner/treatment) accurately and with minimal mess beyond the rails. All you need is a spare guide blade or two (I have loads of them because a bag comes with every solder-in chip and I only have a couple cars that use this type), some Moleskin (adhesive backed cotton weave or felt) and your trusty bottle of INOX.

            Cut your moleskin into strips about as wide as the rails on your track, which should be about the same as the braid area on the guide blade. Note that moleskin is tricky to cut in a straight line, so watch out as you cut it!

            Remove the braids from the guide and apply a short length of moleskin to the bottom as if it were braid. The strip should be long enough to wrap around both the front and back end of the guide.

            The finished applicator should look something like this. The moleskin doesn't need to cover the top of the guide like I did, though.

            Apply a few drops of INOX to each side of your applicator.

            Place the guide in the slot on your track and drag it back and forth along your track to ensure good coverage. You will probably need to re-apply INOX to the applicator a few times. Also, the applicator will probably get very dirty, but don't worry about it too much. You only need to apply the INOX at this point.

            When you have finished applying INOX to your whole track, get some rags or paper towels to wipe up all the excess both from the rails, and from any spots where it might have gone beyond the rails and onto your track. Whatever you use, it WILL get really dirty, so don't be surprised by big black spots all over it. Personally, I prefer paper towels, just be careful with plastic track not to let it snag on joins and leave bits behind.

            If you have a spare car with no motor or something, you could also put the INOX applicator into that and push it around with a functioning car, which would be great for tough to reach spots on certain layouts. I recommend applying by hand when possible, though, to better control the amount being applied so that it's nice and even throughout.



            • #66
              well i just noticed that my order got pushed back. dont order from the site they list on inox web page, shipping will take aparently 2 weeks+ inside the us. so i wont be getting mine for more then a week.


              • #67
                That sucks. Where, specifically, did you order from?


                • #68
                  the lawnmower shop. its on its way, its just slow. so just be warned they are slow shippers.


                  • #69
                    Last edited by slipstick; 07-12-2010, 06:02 PM.


                    • #70
                      It has been noted that the aerosol can has propane and butane. Those are the propellants for the aerosol can, not part of the MX3 lubricant.
                      Any non-aerosol version, such as the injector bottle, does not have those volatile ingredients. Anyone can see the MSDS reports here:
                      Last edited by MrFlippant; 07-12-2010, 07:16 PM.


                      • #71
                        i got mine in the mail today and ran some tests. first test was my fastest nonmag car, a slot it lancia. i ran it on the white lane. best lap before inox treatment was a 12.665, but it typically drives in the 12.8 range. one drop of inox on each braid, and after about 5 laps i did a 12.5, then a 12.4, then a 12.3, 12.2, by my 40th lap, i was consistently turning 12.25 (it felt like a sunday drive) with a best of 12.104!!!

                        then i tried my slot it f40 in the blue lane. it typically runs right about 13.1, with the occasional 12.95. after inox, 12.628!!!

                        then i tried my scaley super resistant ferrari in the red lane, which i am racing this weekend in a little racing series we are doing. it used to struggle to turn 13.2, but after inox, 12.95 was easy and i did a best of 12.85.

                        this stuff is amazing! thanks for the tip, mr.flippant!


                        • #72
                          Excellent! And this is on wood with copper tape, right? Keep us informed on the effects on the tape, like if that copper residue lessens or anything else.

                          I'm currently running a test with INOX as a tire treatment. I have a set of tires that barely responded to a soak in 3-in-1. It will be interesting to see if INOX has an impact, and what it is, since their product states that it can react with natural rubbers. I'm hoping that means softening.
                          Last edited by MrFlippant; 07-12-2010, 10:52 PM.


                          • #73
                            yes, i have a wood track with copper tape. time will tell if the tape residue on the tires is minimized. i suspect it will help, but worst case scenario i doubt it could ever make the problem worse.


                            • #74
                              Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
                              It has been noted that the aerosol can has propane and butane. Those are the propellants for the aerosol can, not part of the MX3 lubricant.
                              Any non-aerosol version, such as the injector bottle, does not have those volatile ingredients. Anyone can see the MSDS reports here:
                              Hi Greg, this is the first I heard of this. Would you advise us not to use the aerosol version? I think thats the one I ordered, and I don't think I'm the only one. It was the only version available here in Canada, so I would have to order from a US supplier for the 4oz bottle.


                              • #75
                                I don't think there's a problem with the aerosol version unless you plan to douse things in it straight out of the can. The butane and propane will just degas out of the INOX as it's sprayed. What I would do is spray some into another container and use something else to apply it. Just be careful not to breathe in any of the fumes as you spray it.