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  #16  
Old 02-23-2008, 12:45 AM
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REH Distributing released the original Strombecker garage/grandstand as a Riggen product (part 9150). It was generally available a few years ago, but I can't find it now.

hobbysurplus.com appears to have the riggen/revell products now.
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2008, 02:09 PM
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This company makes 1/30th scale buildings (not cheap) most are for ww11 recreations but could easily be adapted. I am going to be trying the apartment facade for a NY section of my permanent track. Hs anyone here at SCI used Hansa before?

http://www.hansasystemsusa.com/index.htm
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  #18  
Old 02-24-2008, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Len1775 View Post
This evening after work, I'll dig out my measurements and detailed material notes and work them into some cohesive plans for you, and post them on this thread. I'll also include plans for working bay doors in case that's the route you decide to go. The good thing is - you can alter them easily to fit anything you envision.
Len
Wonder if you had any time - I would sure like to know more, Len.

Thanks

Dan
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2008, 10:03 PM
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I would love to know where you purchased the spot lights. I'm in the middle of building your garage from what I can get from the pics. It's a sweet design.
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  #20  
Old 03-09-2008, 08:43 AM
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Default So sorry for the delay...

Sorry guys, I know I was supposed to post these some time back and I've gotten numerous pm's about getting the plans. I cannot begin to relate how tied up I've been of late, but again, I do apologize.

Anyway, here is some guidance in terms of some better pics and materials, as well as some plans for working garage doors.

Okay, to begin, I make these out of styrene and they are actually quite easy to make. I like to make them in sections of three bays, and in that way, can link together as many as I want. I think I mentioned some time ago that I originally planned about an 18-bay pit area, but gave so many "3 bay" sections away to friends, that I got tired of making them and am left with a 6-bay area for myself...lol. But that's okay, when the urge hits me to make more, they "pop" right together seamlessly!

I use two thickness's of styrene - .60mm & .80mm - no less. If I'm going to take the time to build these, I like them sturdy, particularly if I want working doors and plan to run lights in each bay.
The only place I'll utilize a "lighter" stock is for the roof which is actually a "corrugated" styrene, and the tile floor section of styrene (which overlays the .80mm base).

The corrugated styrene for the roof looks like this:
door1.jpg door2.jpg

Below, you'll find your basic material list and I like pre-cut everything ahead of time so it has my full concentration and there's no mistakes. The styrene cuts nicely with a utility knife with a sharp blade (as soon as the blade dulls - toss it!) and a straight edge.
Bay Materials.jpg

I build right from the base up, and make sure every seam of each piece is adhered completely to the adjoining piece. I don't skimp. I've been in construction and nothing builds a fine house like a solid foundation.

I repeat, "I build these in 3-bay sections. Below, is how it would stand alone;
DSC04779.jpg
The garage above was actually the first one I built and I didn't utilize the minimal amount of pieces (and simplified version) I listed above. It was more complex and choppy looking, and just wasn't as clean and neat as those down the line (Incidentally, I kept this one for myself and incorporated it into my newer bays as I never give away inferior work to friends! They get the goods!!!)

As it progresses, it begins to look like this:
DSC04912.jpg GarageArea2.jpg

The way it is designed now, simply adhere the side walls to the front and back walls, and adhere that to your base.
With the roof off, drop in your "pre-painted" tile floor, and you can begin outlining your bay columns. This is quite easily done by following the later photographs (the earlier pic of the first one I built utilized whatever I had lying at hand, and the later models are according to the material list above).

When those are done, you can wrap your 1/8" x 1/4"s around, or not use them at all. I prefer the break it creates.
Then, I like to use 3/32 x 1/8 styrene for the interior's floor moldings.

At this point, you need to decide if you want a) working doors and b) working lights. If you want doors, follow the directions below;
DOOR PLANS 1.jpg DoorPlans2revised.jpg

If lights are wanted, you'll probably be bested suited to mount them high on the rear wall if you choose working doors. If your doors are stationary, a rafter in the center of each bay is a fine place to attach lighting.

When all done with lighting, doors, floors, etc... put the roof on. To make the scene complete when I attach them, i build the little cuppolla above the center roof portion, but this is optional.

All lights on the interior were purchased at a train shop, and the exterior pole lights, are Lionel.

I hope this helps you guys. Have fun building them!!!

Len
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  #21  
Old 03-09-2008, 08:51 AM
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Great post Len!
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2008, 09:01 AM
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Thanks Len!

JW
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  #23  
Old 03-09-2008, 10:56 AM
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Thanks guys.

Anyway, here is an earlier post in which I give a far more detailed explanation on building working doors. Enjoy...

Ok, well I hope this sheds some light on how I assembled the garages. It's actually quite simplistic , however, I cannot overstate the importance of a good fit. That's seems to be the main difference between a sturdy, smooth-working end product, and one that's hastily slapped together with doors falling off or not opening at all. I guess my belief in "measure twice, cut once" is a carryover from my home building days.

Anyway, I like to utilize sheet styrene a minimum of .80 mm for all my buildings. The thicker the better. Yes, it might seem like overkill, but when you have moving parts, I've found your basic structure better be sturdy. Another of my axioms is "level at the beginning, level at the end."

It seems as if most attention was drawn to the doors, so that is where I'll focus. Again, I reiterate, it is extremely simplistic in design, but it's ability to function properly depends totally on measurements and fit.

I began the doors by choosing sheet styrene in a "corrugated" pattern as pictured below.

door1.jpg
Please excuse me the fact that I do not remember the exact thickness, as I bought enough to do 12 to 15 bays. However, as in the photo below, you can see it was thin enough to bend easily, yet thick enough to remain "springy" and not wilt.
door2.jpg

Once I had my basic structure together (four walls, a floor, and facade beams or posts), I began to focus on the doors themselves. Bear in mind, I installed these doors with the ROOF OFF.

I then bought some I-Beam and cut it down the middle as in the diagram below. What was key here is that I measured the depth only a hair deeper that the thickness of the door. Maybe... maybe 1/32 of an inch. I used these cut I-Beams as channel, or tracking, for the two center posts. I carefully glued them in place behind the posts and was sure to hide them from frontal view for more realism.

DOOR PLANS 1.jpg
I then took the remaining I Beam which i had cut the same as before, and as you can see above, cut it again to act as a single channel for the left and also the right ends of the structure. Again, i carefully glued them in place behind the posts.

It was at this point I measured and cut the width of each door. I then cut the height of each door, leaving it approx. 1" higher than necessary. Why? Well, when I closed it I wouldn't want a gap at the top, nor have it slip out, and that 1" would maintain the springiness for my next steps.

In the diagram below you'll see i used a hollow styrene tube. It could be anything... a dowel, a rod, anything. Just as long as it is approx. 1/2" in circumference. I liked styrene for the lightness.

DoorPlans2revised.jpg
Anyway I glued one in place running the entire length of the three garage bays. I set it flush with the upright channels in regards to the face, yet high enough to be hidden from view.
I then set the doors within styrene U-Channels and glued the channels from the back wall of the structure to the tube itself, making sure the bottom of the channel was flush with the top of the tube. It was tricky, but as you can see, doable. Incidentally, what the diagram doesn't show is that I angled the channels up slightly towards the back wall. I figured this would be less stress on the door with frequent usage.

When everything was set, I gently worked the doors over the tube and into the vertical tracks. When i closed the doors, I glued stops on the upper channels so that when each door was open to its fullest, there would be about 3/8" remaining at the top of the bay opening. I figured once the roof was adhered in place, it would be a minor disaster for a door to pop into the ceiling, hence the stops.

Finally, I adhered the roof, and painted each door aluminum. I painted close, but not into

The springiness allows them to stay firm, and the closeness of the measurements, keeps things from wobbling and seeming flimsy. All in all, I'm elated with them.


Hope this helps fellas!
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  #24  
Old 03-12-2008, 04:37 AM
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Default Track Buildings 1/32

You may find what you are looking for here.


http://www.scalebuildings.com/132.htm
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2008, 08:58 AM
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Oooh, I'd love to have some cool paddocks like that. Unfortunately, we have two cats, so most of those little men would be lunch after about a day.
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  #26  
Old 03-12-2008, 09:46 AM
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Len1775
Good informative post, it should be of use to several people.


Tom
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  #27  
Old 07-05-2008, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy01 View Post
REH Distributing released the original Strombecker garage/grandstand as a Riggen product (part 9150). It was generally available a few years ago, but I can't find it now..
hobbyspeed.com is offering the riggen 9150 garage grandstand kit.
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  #28  
Old 07-06-2008, 07:38 PM
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I've found through my experience that Hobbyspeed either doesn't have or can't get close to 1/2 of the older stuff they still have advertised on their site. Let me know if you can get that. I'd like 3 or 4 of them.
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  #29  
Old 07-09-2008, 02:11 PM
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SCRATCHBUILD EM!!!!

Make a Plan & Get Er Done!!!!
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  #30  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:15 AM
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thatguy, Heres the 9150 at hotslots.
i buy all of my stuff here. 2 day delivery out to new jersey. they are the best. tried other places early on, nobody beats HOTSLOTS!
http://www.hotslots132.com/product_i...page=2&sort=2a
i had my carrera dig132 onorder for a good month and a half at hobbyspeed. wound up canceling the order. got it from hotslots in 2 days!!!!
chet
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