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  #1  
Old 03-28-2012, 04:01 AM
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Default Blue Printing SCX motors

Hi all I would be greatful for some information on blue printing SCX motors RX42Bs the the 25k motors.

I have had some advice but would like to see what else is done patricularly retiming photos would be great thanks

Ray
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2012, 04:58 AM
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Default Blue Printing SCX Motors

I found this thread to be quite helpful:

http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...ad.php?t=48126
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2012, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwhite02 View Post
I found this thread to be quite helpful:

http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...ad.php?t=48126
Thank you for the link that is great and very informative. Is there any more information about motor timing it is mentioned in the link but it would be great to understand this a little better.

Ray
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  #4  
Old 04-11-2012, 09:21 PM
Mike- Mike- is offline
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Timing....

On one hand, altering the timing...."during an armature rewind" is very easy to do.
BUT altering the timing on a finished running armature, isn't for the faint of heart. The problem is, the winds of wire are wound tight enough, that as you move the comutator, you are "tightining" the tought wire even tighter.
One of two things will happen -
1. the tight side wires will break.
2. the tight side wires will stretch. When they stretch, they get thin. When they get thin, less power will flow, thus basically negating the comm . advance operation.

So...what can be done...?
I've found a coupla things that work.
1. Move the magnets in the motor can to "center" the armature in the center of the magnetic field. Remove the armature shims and put the motor back together (WITHOUT the brushes). You can watch the arm move itself to the center. In MOST cases, just shimming isn't enough movement though, you'll need to move the magnets. I've found CA glue good to position the magnets in the can.

2. Shim the armature to limit the arm movement in the assembled can (just like limiting the rear axle side to side movement).

3. This one's a bit tuff - make sure the brushes are "equadistant and square" from the "center" of the comutator.
This can be another problem with doing the work to advance the timing...only to have the brushes offset from center and negate or partially negate all your armature work.

As for "breaking in" brushes, ONLY....do this to the point of the brush having full contact (or near full contact) with the comutator surface.
This is one thing that's been blown all out of proportion (as far as I'm concerned).
UNLESS....you are going to a major race the next day....just do a light breakin (about 6 volts, less than 1 amp) and spend the rest of the "breakin" time with track time....! This is much more important (by me) than 100% brush contact before you put the car on the track..!

One thing that is motor related but not really considered "motor blue printing"...is to shorten the armature so that it does NOT contact the crown gear in inline car setups. Then use tubing to shim the rear axle to center the wheels/tires, and just adjust the crown to get a good crown to pinion mesh.
This removes a fair amount of friction...which is a HP killer...!

This is some of the things I do.
Hope this helps some.

Mike

Last edited by Mike-; 04-11-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2012, 03:33 PM
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Thank you Mike thats great I will have a go and see what I can do with your suggestions.

Much appreciated

Ray
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2012, 08:23 PM
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I've found if you run a SCX motor in at 5 volts for 4 to 5 hours it really makes a differance. I have a Corvette that's about 4 years old and it is one of the fastest SCX's in our club. We regularly get over 20 guys racing each Wednesday night so there is a lot of competition.

My brother started racing and bought an Aston Martin that was way off the pace so I ran it in for him. I added lead and did a few other "tidy ups" and the car is as quick as my Vette.

Last edited by Sports Racer; 04-24-2012 at 12:55 AM.
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