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  #1  
Old 04-27-2012, 07:45 AM
Wildcat Wildcat is offline
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Default Slot It and Weight?

I just purchased the collector series Slot It the Ford GT # 2 the Black one, has anyone added lead to the chassis or is it not needed? Thars about all I can do due to I race it in Stock out of box
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  #2  
Old 04-27-2012, 08:20 AM
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Robert Livingston Robert Livingston is offline
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Some very fast Slot.It cars have weight added to the pod ahead of the motor, and/or on the chassis perimeter frame, just ahead of the rear wheels. You can also try a bit of weight just aft of the guide, on the perimeter frame (the main, outer chassis). Experiment! Weight tuning is dependent on how you drive, level of grip, and whether you run with higher voltage or lower voltage. In general, a fast car may be lighter than a slower car, but it may be harder to drive (that is, you will have a steadier, more predictable car with more weight). Try everything.
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  #3  
Old 04-27-2012, 08:51 AM
Octagon Spirit Octagon Spirit is offline
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On larger wood tracks, I've found that the GT40 needs at least a little bit of weight behind the guide.

Of course, in OSRL rules, the sidewinder classics are extremely under the series minimum weight of 78grams, so they end up running a fair bit of lead anyway. It's worth it on tighter tracks to persist with those cars, as they're very nimble.
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  #4  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:35 AM
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If you look at data from the proxy races on this board, and analyze the tech. sheets, you will see the better builders usually end up at 80ish grams with a 60/40 rear/front weight distribution.
Generally I don't add weight towards the guide, but on faster wood tracks, it is necessary to add a little behind the guide to maintain proper weight distribution when adding 10 grams of xtra ballast.
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  #5  
Old 04-27-2012, 09:54 AM
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Default Weight a minute!

Quote:
I just purchased the collector series Slot It the Ford GT # 2 the Black one, has anyone added lead to the chassis or is it not needed?
The alternative, though not as cheap as lead, is genuine Slot.it Tungsten Ballast. Designed to fit into the magnet pocket, heavier by volume, and it doesn't matter if you lick your fingers after handling it!



But before ever adding weight to a car, I would drive it first and see if any is actually required.
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  #6  
Old 04-27-2012, 10:14 AM
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the GT40 is a great handling car right out of the box. i find that setting the screws properly is going to give you a better lap time reduction than weight placement, unless you are on a really slippery track.

if you can change the tires, i have found that car to be a rocketship with silicones, no added weight, body screws about 1 turn off, pod screws about 1/2 turn off. if the rules allow, i'd add setscrews to adjust the front axle height so the tires are just barely touching the track. also, it can't hurt to strip the car down, and flatten the chassis with hot water.

if you must run stock tires, the amount of weight you add will be dependent on a number of factors: how rubbered in the track is, your driving style, etc. i usually avoid adding weight unless a car has an obvious handling issue.
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  #7  
Old 04-27-2012, 11:11 AM
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svanaken svanaken is offline
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I generally add no weight, but if any might be required, it would be behind the guide and then not very much.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:15 PM
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Default My dimes worth

I have the 18a red car, which has basically just been "blueprinted" - make sure chassis is flat, tyres glued and trued, softer braid set as flat as possible, front wheels set so guide is full depth in slot, pod screws about 1.5 turns off tight (quite rattley), body about 1.25 turns off tight at rear, and 0.75 off tight at front ( I am running soft rubber tyres - N22 suits our gloss wood tracks)

Your own setup points may vary, but I have not added any weight, and the thining is nimble and very stable in corners, silky smooth, no shudder.
BUT, I do run a little bit of anti-spin on my controller - just to stop it wheelstanding out of the slot under acceleration out of corners even with the braids set flat; as the front is so light.
It will slay most stuff in it's class including the red one I was given from another Italian maker.

I have thought about a bit of wieght behind the guide, but haven't "needed it" for racing, so what ain't broke, I aint tried ta fix !
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2012, 05:59 PM
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Good advice there from down under, you'll also find this helpful I reckon.
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  #10  
Old 04-27-2012, 10:54 PM
ADJUSDOOR ADJUSDOOR is offline
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Slot-it is not made in Italy any longer and if you dusted an NSR it was not set up very well. My Slot-it GT-40s get Slot-it Shore 22s, a smoother older silver 25k motor,some lead behind the front axle and SCX soft braid . Getting the front wheels down is a task...But they are really great to run. MHO
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADJUSDOOR View Post
Slot-it is not made in Italy any longer and if you dusted an NSR it was not set up very well. My Slot-it GT-40s get Slot-it Shore 22s, a smoother older silver 25k motor,some lead behind the front axle and SCX soft braid . Getting the front wheels down is a task...But they are really great to run. MHO
Well no, they're not assembled in Italy these days, but when I compare the assembly quality of the GT40 - not to mention the design improvements (undoubtedly originating from Galileo Engineering) to the original Audi, I know which one is the better toy car!
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:46 AM
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Default Tungsten putty

Around the front body post works quite well !
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  #13  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:50 AM
ADJUSDOOR ADJUSDOOR is offline
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At least 10 years of necessary design improvements to keep up with the market make them what they are now. I recall the Audi was at the top of the heap back then.
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