Which brings you back around to needing a versatile controller if you have a variety of cars, no matter the track type is. Wouldn't a controller with a couple adjustments be better than 4 or more different Ohm controllers to switch between? Wouldn't a couple adjustable controllers be better than 8 or more different Ohm controllers to provide even controllers when racing two cars?
As for the attitude that home/plastic racers don't need adjustable controllers, well... that's malarky and everyone here knows it. Tell you what, let's see a commercial/wood racer go to a home/plastic track and see if he prefers a set Ohm controller with no adjustments, or a controller like the one he uses at the "big boy" track. I'm willing to bet money he/she would choose the latter.
So, what's important? Value, versatility, and comfort.
As for the attitude that home/plastic racers don't need adjustable controllers, well... that's malarky and everyone here knows it. Tell you what, let's see a commercial/wood racer go to a home/plastic track and see if he prefers a set Ohm controller with no adjustments, or a controller like the one he uses at the "big boy" track. I'm willing to bet money he/she would choose the latter.
So, what's important? Value, versatility, and comfort.
I have seen commercial/wood racer go to a home/plastic track.
If the "ohms" and brakes feel right few can be bothered to change them. Mostly one or both don't feel right (to them), so they prefer an adjustable controller.
There is a lot more to controller than the "ohms" , most every experienced racer prefers a controller that feels right to them. That includes how the handle fits in their hand, is the action of the trigger the same as they are used to (or the action of the plunger if that's what they prefer), is the spring tension what they like, does the wiper movement feel right to them.....(I've yet to meet a driver who likes a wiper movement that feels like it's graunching over a cheese grater, but some don't like the total smoothness of a magnetic pick up with no physical wiper.)
And more? - total reliability is pretty high on the wanted list.
I used to use a Modified Parma with either 45 or 25 ohms and a switch to reduce braking slightly. I'd like to try an Avant Slot Hammer for fun but whether it would improve my enjoyment I do not know. One thing I think I never did which was on my list was a bypass relay as I have long leads so I can it a drink beer while doing laps.
If asked for one thing I say have the correct ohm-age for the car is the best single thing.
We just use Parma Economy 35ohm controllers, everyone stuck with the same ones, we switch lanes so everyone gets to run every controller and lane, and people who can't drive without their three knob safety blanket just have to learn to race with the cheapo controllers.
Main criteria being reliability and consistency. The 35ohm works best on our track out of the various resistors you can get for them. As long as everyone has to use the same equipment it doesn't really matter. When people bring their own controllers you never get to see who's the best racer, because it becomes a race to determine who has the most expensive controller.
If you're not also doing IROC cars, then IMHO, you're wasting your time. If you really want to know who's the most consistent/best racer, EVERYTHING needs to be provided and shared by all. You've got lane rotation and controllers, but if people race their own cars the whole time, the winning is as much (or more) about the tuning as it is about the driving.
Also, someone who races with a completely different controller will be at a disadvantage, however slight, from those who always race with a Parma Economy 35ohm controller, if only because the controller is simply unfamiliar to them, and "feels" wrong.
Now, I'm not saying that there's anything wrong with Parma Economy 35ohm controllers. I don't personally like the Parma handle, but that's me. As I pointed out above, a good racer can race with a stock Scalextric controller. I've heard of some clubs that even use those for IROC races every once in a while. 3 knob controllers aren't a safety blanket, they're just giving more control of the car to the driver. Instead of being limited to a gas pedal and an on/off brake pedal to drive, they can ease on the brakes, and toss in some traction control if they want to.
Anyway, like you said, as long as everyone has to follow the same rule, then it's all good. I'll choose fairness over fancy controllers any day.
The 35ohm works best on our track out of the various resistors you can get for them.
It might be more accurate to say the 35ohm works best on your track with the sort of cars you race..................
Controller resistors need to be matched to the cars you are racing.
If the sort of cars you race all place reasonably similar requirements on a controller, and 35 ohms is a workable compromise for all of them. It's difficult to see how a much more expensive controller would make all that much differance
As with many aspects of slot racing, there are differances of opinion as to what works best.
If the club controller rule works for you and your club that's fine, good luck to you.
Other clubs don't work that way. They are firmly of the opinion that assertions about three knob safety blankets and becoming a race to determine who has the most expensive controller are just plain wrong.
The use your own controller rule works for them and their clubs, good luck to them too.
We mainly run Scalextric Camaros, Scalextric Mustangs, and Pioneer Mustangs together. We also sometimes run a full set of Scalextric GT40s together, or very rarely Monogram NASCARs together. So our cars are pretty much on parity due to class rules.
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