here are some pics of the bentley. i used a 24 tooth crown. i thinned the area of the body above the crown to reduce rubbing, but the key is to lock the front of the pod so that it can't slide back. if you do that, there will probably be enough clearance even without thinning the body.
That is a clean looking chassis Robert and very well designed, I noticed on the photo on top you had a brace running from the motor to the rear pod brace but not in the bottom photo did it not prove to be needed?
Is there any chance I could buy one from you to clone, they would make excellent no mag runners on my plastic track and I have tons of slot.it pods and parts but I'm new to chassis building and a finished chassis would help me at this point. Let me know by PM if you prefer.
Thanks for the pictures .
Chris
Chris, thanks for the kind words. The brace was added to eliminate any flex between rear axle and motor. This is a high torque motor in a heavy car, with lots of grip, so I thought it best to keep the Slot.It offset gears aligned perfectly under all circumstances, to prolong their life. Also, stiffening the pod would reduce any wheel hop. Both ideas proved out. The car was slightly faster with the brace in time trials, and the gears lasted through two seasons of the proxy race.
I'm going to decline the offer to custom build, as I am pretty busy with other projects. Meanwhile, here's another photo that shows more:
The chassis below evolved from the GT40, using nickel silver Code 83 rail instead of the code 100 brass rail in the GT40, and dispensing with the brass plate except as cross pieces in the chassis:
Simple to build, and it did well in the IPS proxy race for a few seasons. Body is a very narrow, 1/32 scale-width Maserati 151, an old Hawk kit c. 1965. I used Slot Car Corner front axle blocks which are light, strong, tunable, and save time in the building. I did not use a rear axle brace, as the car is light, develops only moderate grip, and has a low power motor:
Last edited by Robert Livingston; 06-02-2012 at 01:44 PM.
Robert I understand having little time it's the reason I asked but thanks for the extra photos it helps alot, I have several sets of the SCC axle blocks so that saves me a step right there!! Can I ask how you glued them or any tips on mounting them to the brass chassis. The o-rings are a nice touch on the pod
can I ask if that is for movement or to act as a gasket for the screws?
Chris
That does look like a very clean conversion with the bentley, how does it run compared to other LMP cars
like slot.it, etc?
it runs great. the body is a bit heavy, so the car is over 90 grams with no added weight. it isn't quite as fast as my audi pro car which is on the same chassis, but it is still very quick. but i'd put it up against a slot it or NSR anytime.
Robert I understand having little time it's the reason I asked but thanks for the extra photos it helps a lot, I have several sets of the SCC axle blocks so that saves me a step right there!! Can I ask how you glued them or any tips on mounting them to the brass chassis. The o-rings are a nice touch on the pod
can I ask if that is for movement or to act as a gasket for the screws?
Chris
The SCC blocks have a flat bottom, so you can use CA glue to bond them to a clean, flat grass plate. Due to the molding process, there is a draft angle to the bottom, so they lean a few degrees, but that doesn't really matter. You can use a square and a file and straighten them up if you wish.
The O-rings are 1/16" thick, and are used to provide a slight cushion effect, eliminate rattly noises, but any spacers will do. I've since changed to using felt for the same purpose, which works better, as on the body mount screws shown below:
Last edited by Robert Livingston; 06-02-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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Very nice Robert, that why I'm going to do a bunch of the calender girls in brass.
There was a reason for me to live the 1:24 retro world to learn how to make scratch build chassis.
Now I will put the two together.
Good thread, RL sure is good at what he does and I just figured from Boopiejones what to do,with my Carrera Bentley body - there is also an excellent Thread somewhere from Kerry about putting an original HRS chassis under that body, with pictures and everything.
If like me you're not au fait with working in brass and soldering stuff, the HRS/2 Slot.it chassis definitely deserves consideration. It works very well under an awful lot of car bodies.
I was following Kerry's build as i have a slot.it chassis which is the perfect wheelbase but I was interested to see how boopiejones had done it and if I had a ninco pro audi chassis it looks much easier than the slot.it chassis as far as body mounts go!! I do have two bentley bodies though so maybe if I can get my hands on one I will try the ninco chassis. Roberts chassis looks very attractive as he's using slot.it pods and SCC axle mounts which makes the actual build so much easier as far as soldering goes, great way for me to get into making brass chassis with my limited experience. Appreciate the thread though, alot of great information and advice, thanks guys.
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet Coast Racer
Good thread, RL sure is good at what he does and I just figured from Boopiejones what to do,with my Carrera Bentley body - there is also an excellent Thread somewhere from Kerry about putting an original HRS chassis under that body, with pictures and everything.
If like me you're not au fait with working in brass and soldering stuff, the HRS/2 Slot.it chassis definitely deserves consideration. It works very well under an awful lot of car bodies.
Appreciate the explanation. Have lots of felt with the girls crafts so thats good to know. Thanks again for the photos and answering my questions I just hope my effort turns out half as nice as yours, I may be calling on you again if I need any help!!
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Livingston
The SCC blocks have a flat bottom, so you can use CA glue to bond them to a clean, flat grass plate. Due to the molding process, there is a draft angle to the bottom, so they lean a few degrees, but that doesn't really matter. You can use a square and a file and straighten them up if you wish.
The O-rings are 1/16" thick, and are used to provide a slight cushion effect, eliminate rattly noises, but any spacers will do. I've since changed to using felt for the same purpose, which works better, as on the body mount screws shown below:
I was following Kerry's build as i have a slot.it chassis which is the perfect wheelbase but I was interested to see how boopiejones had done it and if I had a ninco pro audi chassis it looks much easier than the slot.it chassis as far as body mounts go!! I do have two bentley bodies though so maybe if I can get my hands on one I will try the ninco chassis. Roberts chassis looks very attractive as he's using slot.it pods and SCC axle mounts which makes the actual build so much easier as far as soldering goes, great way for me to get into making brass chassis with my limited experience. Appreciate the thread though, alot of great information and advice, thanks guys.
Chris
fyi, it isn't a ninco chassis. it is an SCX pro chassis with a ninco motor...
but thanks for the extra photos it helps alot, I have several sets of the SCC axle blocks so that saves me a step right there!! Can I ask how you glued them or any tips on mounting them to the brass chassis. The o-rings are a nice touch on the pod
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