Dumb question....Shoe Goo has been recommended for slots for ages...where do you get the stuff? I haven't seen a shoe repair shop in 20 years, so I assume some national chain stocks it?
I've been using JB products for more "rigid" applications but the Goo is somewhat flexible as I understand it. John
I've found Shoo Goo at Walmart. Another version of that product is Automotive Goop and can be found at most major auto parts stores.
I have a cheap glue gun from a dollar store that works just fine. I race without magnets and my motors do not get hot. If they did I would get high temperature glue sticks from a hardware store. Silicone glue works well if you are not in a rush.
much thanks , my server is down , so , on my day off here i am at work to get "up to date" . just came from the local hobbie store and have a couple products , new to me , but needed for my car to "survive" while on the road . shoe goo it is . course the first time i used it it was to make my own fly fishin` shoes . glued felt to the bottom of olde work boots . my tube is aged a bit and it dosen`t flow anyhow , since i can`t seem to find an accessory tip will have to improvise . as i said , most of the pictures i`ve seen of this look absolutely horrible . i know it`s under the body and can`t be seen , and well there is no longer a "first shirt" in my life but my work clothes would always pass his inspection . hope all you all understand that statement . those of you who vied for soldier of the month understand full well , just what that means .
again thanks for all input . you guys are a wealth of knowledge , and the best part is , as we all learned it in pre-school/kindergarten , we share . thanks for openin` the encyclpedia , "slotcarillustrated" .
as for screws to secure the motor , the ninco chassis in question has no holes and makin` em could disqualify my entry .
Last edited by Jerry LaGesse; 06-19-2012 at 08:19 AM.
Just thought I would mention ... Shoe Goo is indeed a great choice, particularly if you want to be able to remove the motor later; but if this isn't a concern, then consider good old CA glue - I have used it successfully both for attaching to plastic pods and for installing an S-can into a brass mount (the motor didn't have any screw holes).
Hot glue, for years, 2 of pretty intense local racing (20V power supplies and heavy magnets) in short track NASCAR events.
Now in the 5th and 6th seasons of various proxy events. The motors have never come out, or come back loose. One set of gears was chewed smooth, but no motors out of cradles. The crown was a stock item on a pretty heavy car.
To get the motors out at season's end, I just use a chisel style dull X-acto blade and run it down between the can and the glue. It has never taken more than about 5 minutes. Like M&M's, there's never a gooey mess.
so , after a little shoe goo , i filled between goo spots with g/e brand fishtank silicone . took over night to set-up , but the motor should be in `till i take it out . in the goo is also the rods a fabricated to stiffin` the chassis . one down either side and snug to the ribs in the chassis . i used the same method for the rear bushings and for the axle tube i made for the front . lead weight , uummm , i put two squares in front under the axle behind the guide center . on each side i put two squares just in front of the rear wheels . they are as far outboard as i could put them with out rubbin` against the inside of the body .
guess i`am as ready as i can be for my first scitcc race . now to wait for september first (if`n thats the day this year) !
Hot glue guns aren't expensive unless you're buying professional guns for serious industrial work. There are many inexpensive guns made for crafters; what works best for our toys are high-temp or multi-temp guns with long skinny nozzles. And you need the right glue! Glues come in low-, multi-, and high-temp variations, and different formulas are made for different materials. Get hot glue formulated for non-porous applications (i.e., plastic and metal). Don't use very high temperature glue guns or you risk melting plastic parts on your cars. Low-temp glues can loosen from motor heat and most low-temp glues are not formulated to bond on non-porous materials.
Here is an old post I wrote about what to look for.
To increase the strength and life of a hot glue bond on plastic & metal, pre-clean the parts with 91% or higher isopropyl alcohol and let them dry. Just don't start a fire from the flammable alcohol getting together with the hot gun. And don't let the alcohol get onto painted cars or tampo, directly or from your fingers!
Shoo goo fumes while the stuff cures aren't good to breathe! Hot glue doesn't have any such toxic odor, and cures in moments.
Great post JML. I avoid the Goop fume problems by gluing outdoors. Fortunately my workshop has a door to the exterior, and a work table right outside the door. And a light over the door for late-night glue excursions.