I air brush the Future on very lightly. Agree that it does try to pool up. For the clear windows, I use the Testor's clear window adhesive/glass builder stuff. Never fogs, holds well and it does dry very clear.
I use Tamiya Clear, dries to the touch in a few minutes and ready for polishing in about a hour.
For window, I found out about this excellent product a couple of years ago. Watch crystal cement, it dries clear in a few minutes and with hypo tip it's very easy to get in very tight spots. Only $4.95 a tube and it will last you for years.
Last edited by porscheman; 07-09-2012 at 02:26 PM.
For what it's worth I have built afew Racer "kits" inclueding a complete kit that had to pass for a RTR that was no longer available-for a collector that just had to have the car for his collection.....Elmers white glue works great on the windows. I do repairs for a Racer importer (not all the car survive the trip unscathed) and Elmers is all I use on windows.
If the front windshield mounts on a curve with a bit of tension at the corner, I suggest you first tape down the windows using thin strips of tape to insure exact placement. Then loosen the tape on one side, affix the cement then push it back down in place and secure with the same tape strips. Once that is dry do the other side.
I did the Ferrari 512 kit and it worked out very well. That front windshield was under tension and the glue went on in a 1mm wide line. Trying to do the entire windshield at one shot is tough and likely to move on you.
After the front windshield is one, the rest of the windows should be easy. Test you cement on the scrap pieces as the windows are probably Lexan (thick harder plastic then vacuum form), at least is was with the Ferrari.
Also the newer prepainted kit already come with the decals and a clear coat on it. You really don't need to add another layer on top. The Future will probably not harm it, but any other clear coat might. The clear coat on it is an automotive type.