Maybe this has been discussed before, but so far I can't find anything, so here goes:
Who has a nice easy way to true up NSR rear tires on a Hudy machine without them getting all patchy and rough?
Is there even an "easy" way?
My experience so far has been with both the regular and a diamond drum, at around 6 volts on the Hudy. I have tried various fluids, from Simple Green to denatured alcohol to Naptha, and only sometimes do I get a nice smooth surface without chunking. I have tried cutting the tires dry, taking REALLY small cuts, but even that overheats the tire and causes chunking. I would say my best results are from cutting with Naptha, but it's messy as hell, especially when there's a lot of rubber to remove.
i've done my NSR tires on a hudy at 10v and going VERY slow. i just use water to keep it cool. by VERY slow, i mean it takes nearly as long to true one NSR rubber tire as it does to true a silicone tire.
FYI, i'm talking about the stock NSR tires (super grips, i think?). i have not tried the ultra grips.
it seems like the classic tires are easier to true than the modern tires. i think the air system wheels combined with the thinner sidewall of the modern tires causes more expansion in the center of the tire which makes them more difficult to true even after gluing to the rims. lower voltage would probably help with this problem...
Last edited by boopiejones; 08-21-2012 at 10:35 AM.
I trued NSR Ultragrips at 5V, and I found dry worked the best for me. When I turned the tire into the drum and heard it touch I immediately backed off a tad! VERY LITTLE at a time. When done I mounted the wheels and spun them on 1200-1400 grit wet/dry paper, again with very slight pressure, gives them a bit of a shinny finish.
I did my first tire wet, using Simple Green, thought I was all good until I saw the result, what a mess I made of that tire It felt "right" while it was spinning though but it was actually all "pilled" up.
it seems like the classic tires are easier to true than the modern tires. i think the air system wheels combined with the thinner sidewall of the modern tires causes more expansion in the center of the tire which makes them more difficult to true even after gluing to the rims. lower voltage would probably help with this problem...
I have found it easier to true the classic tires, even when the rims have an airgap (like the tires on the 917, P68 etc). Maybe they are harder than the tires on the modern cars.
With the airgap wheels I have been filling the gap with foam from cut-up 1/24 donuts and that seems to give a more consistent surface in the center of the tire.
Thanks for the tips, guys, next time I will try to reduce the voltage even more and perhaps try water rather than more exotic fluids.
I've used an RSM on glued Ultra Grips. I use low voltage (around 5V, maybe less) and keep a damp sponge for cooling the tire between hits of the abrasive. I use a fine emery board for finishing the edges and polishing the tire's surface. No problems so far.
I use mether05's method and profile the edges with a sanding stick. Make sure they are glued to the rim. NSR tires do not fit tight on the rims.
We have found that 2 in about 10 ultragips have blemishes that looks like something in the compound didn't melt before they formed the tire. Supergrips are very consistent and true up like a breeze. After running supergrips a hundred laps or so on a latex surface, they get polished and grip fantastic. YMMV
on an EU Truer, I use naptha (lighter fluid), tro keep the freiction and temperature down, when I am truing for a race/series/class which doesn't allow chemical treatments.
3 volts with a low power power supply. Very slowly true the tire - I move the tire into the drum little by little, and I do not move the tire in until I hear little to no "sanding" noise left from the previous move.
Once you arrive at your desired diamter - use a smooth sanding stick to round the edges off. I top it off with a 2000 grit polish on the tire using a sanding stick/paper and then run it on the track.
If you sand the tire and a rip or a hole appears, it's a bad tire and I would replace.
3 volts with a low power power supply. Very slowly true the tire - I move the tire into the drum little by little, and I do not move the tire in until I hear little to no "sanding" noise left from the previous move.
Once you arrive at your desired diamter - use a smooth sanding stick to round the edges off. I top it off with a 2000 grit polish on the tire using a sanding stick/paper and then run it on the track.
If you sand the tire and a rip or a hole appears, it's a bad tire and I would replace.
And is there a microwave trick with these tires? Come on...... spill the beans.....
Truing NSR tires on a Hudy
It felt "right" while it was spinning though 
but it was actually all "pilled" up.
Linear Mode
