Painting tip ?

[Racer9]

Hello racers,
I'm going to start painting my first car was just curious to how many steps is a norm for example,
primer, sand, 2nd coat of primer, paint. etc. and does anybody use polish in the end ? I saw on You Tube some model builders use it.
Thanks for any tips much appreciated,
Racer9

[Speedhoppy]

Racer 9, what kind of paints are you using? Are you painting plastic, or cast resin, or Lexan? Are you painting over an existing color scheme, or painting a "body in white? Spray cans, airbrush, or by hand? Please give some details......

[Racer9]

Tamiya spray can over all white cast resin.
Thanks,
Racer9

[Jisp]

I think it becomes a question of how far you want to take things versus a finish that is pleasing to your eye. Do you merely want to get some colour on it or are you looking for a "concourse" finish......?

Being a resin cast it will most likely have a few casting flaws such as pin holes, flashing and the odd rough surface area. It is here that you make your decision. If you want real eye candy you treat it more or less like a regular car body. Fill, wet sand, test coat, wet rub etc and repeat as required. Once the body is A1 follow with a light primer/undercoat and again very lightly wet rub. Depending on paint colour and type you would hit it with 2 or 3 light colour coats, having done any masking required for windows etc. At this point just leave it alone for a few days to cure. Some guys do use polishing compounds but I clear coat with either acrylic or future. If you plan on applying water slide decals they should be protected with a clear coat.

If you are just looking for some colour on the body, simply hit it with the colour. Lots of guys then simply hand paint in windows and other details.

Above all, it's a patience game. Always leave adequate time between coats and try to use light coats. Sitting the spray can in some warm water (to warm the paint) prior to spraying usually gives a better finish.

You'll find a heap of info in the Vintage & Scratchbuilding forum here at SCI http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...splay.php?f=31

Best of luck and please let us know how it goes.

Cheers,
Michael.

[geno]

Here is a good thread to look at for painting tips. http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/po...ad.php?t=31173

For resin cast cars I sand and remove inperfections, then I scub well in sink with warm water and Comet, then soapy water.

I have always primed the resin bodys with a good lacquer primer, usally Mr Surface 1000-2000 grit light gray primer.

Then follow the directions in the above mentioned thread and you can't go wrong.

After a number of paint jobs you will find what works for you.

I prefer Taymia rattle cans myself and have many painted cars in my galleries using this paint.

Geno

I just went to the above thread and see that photos are gone but the info is good.
This guy does amazing work and has other threads with pics of his cars. I believe they will be found in the scratch built section.

[Racer9]

Thanks for the tips hopefully my first paint job will be worth posting a photo.
Cheers,
Racer9

[Speedhoppy]

Racer 9, both Mike and Geno gave you pretty good advice, and sites to review. I would add that to be sure you have a supply of the right size brushes for painting details (even toothpicks can be used to paint the inside of velocity stacks, or rivet details). Cast resin definitely takes more time/care than either plastic or Lexan. Here is a picture of three projects I did simultaniously not too long ago that I posted in the Forum:



LTR: #15 hard plastic AFX Ferrari 612; #17 Lexan copy; #75 cast resin Maserati Tipo 61 "Birdcage".
Here is another example:



#17 is the Lexan Ferrari 612 from the previous picture. #9 Cobra 289 is cast resin.

Keep in mind that even with clearcoat protection, paint can still chip if the car hits a hard enough surface enough times, so you may need to do touch up (or even a repaint). Both the Cobra and Maserati shown above were repainted from different colors, after stripping the original paint schemes away. Above all, take your time with a project; the amount of time you put into your efforts (and using the proper paints & tools) will show in the finished product.........

[356speedster]

As Michael said, it's a patience game, each step below can take 24 hours or more.

The basic process:

- Preparation (remove mould lines, fill holes, key the surface, wash&dry)
- primer (2-3 coats, 30 min between, cure 24 hours)
- base coat (2-3 coats, 30 min between, cure 24 hours)
- decals (cure 24 hours)
- clear coat (2-3 thin coats, 30 min between, cure 24 hours)
- Polish after a week, or a month

First coat of each step should be a light "dust", then follow up with heavier coats, but not so heavy the paint starts to run.

This is just the basics, before each step you might have to sand down imperfections, and then you also have to wash it in water & soap with a toothbrush and leave it to dry under a "dust lid" before continuing.

With a dehydrator you can cut curing times down to 4-8 hours. I bought a cheap food dehydrator from the big auction site for about 40$, great investment if you like to paint.

Tamiya rattle can's are great, use white primer under light colors, especially red or yellow.

[Racer9]

Good stuff thanks again !
Racer9