It is the front part of the body that's warped moving the post despite my initial look, however it is the rear post I moved. Car runs fine now, this is a well balanced car and is not blindingly fast with the 20K motor but the handling is very good. This car should match up well with Slot It's new offerings such as the McLaren that just came out with the anglewinder POD.
In my first career as a manager I worked for Fisher Body at GM and injection molding is an art, I had a half dozen engineers tell me that daily when the parts warped. Any startup company that has a production run come out bad is going to have to make the decision to ship or fix and if the money is tight we are getting the problem passed to us. Some of the bodies may be fine if they caught the problem. If they fit in a class we are running I'm buying more releases, hopefully QC will catch the next issue before it becomes our issue.
Because I like to repaint my bodies every now and then after they get banged up. I like to use 5 min epoxy. slip a knnife blade under it and it pops right off.. Than way you don't damage that part glued in. And it doesn't fog windows or clear parts.. Not to sure how this will work with the lexan parts
Ok then... regular model glue it is for some of the body parts.
But I guess I should have been more specific...
What are people using on the lightweight glass and lenses?
I have tried other glues but came back to Shoe Goo.
I tried E-6000 but it takes too long to set, and does not shrink like Shoe Goo. I tried Super Glue and other types of glue but still came back to Shoe Goo.
Would like to hear what others use to build these cars. I found Shoe Goo added a little weight but strengthened the body as well.
You can pull the glue off to do repairs etc, it encases rather than bonds the parts.
Methinks someone needs to find a new horse to try and beat to death.
CA works great for the body parts, best to reinforce the rear piece. I used strips of credit card plastic. CA the plastic strips in place, one either side and two at the back, then reinforce that with more CA and baking soda.
For the 'glass' use shoe goo or whatever liquid vinyl adhesive you have laying around.
Hint: remove the little pins that are meant to help locate the 'glass' parts.
Hint: trim the headlight buckets to fit the lenses, glue the buckets to the lenses, then trim the lenses to fit, then glue the headlight assemblies in place.
Oh. Testor's cement works as well. I'd use thick CA but the model glue will do.
Ok then... regular model glue it is for some of the body parts.
But I guess I should have been more specific...
What are people using on the lightweight glass and lenses?
Assuming you do not crash a lot, I have used clear gloss paint for headlight covers and to install windows and such. It is surprisingly resilient, does not fog and most of the time, you cannot tell if you have made a goof as it is clear and glossy. These paints are available in both acrylics and oil based.
So, are we now discussing that these bodies are made of some plastic that normal glues, (CA, testor's modeling cement, etc) do not bond to?
No Martini, regular glues work fine. I was just looking for "better"...
Quote:
Hint: remove the little pins that are meant to help locate the 'glass' parts.
Hint: trim the headlight buckets to fit the lenses, glue the buckets to the lenses, then trim the lenses to fit, then glue the headlight assemblies in place.
Sounds like good information here. Thank you Monquispot. I sensed an epic struggle working those in together... And I have found the tail lamps annoying. Any hints for those?
For the taillight panel, and I didn't do this: trim it to fit before assembling the two body parts. And be prepared to do a little fine tuning of the fit after assembling those two body parts.....oh....dont forget to paint the body before installing the 'glass'.....and if you decide that you 'need' to smooth the gap between those same two body parts....do that before installing the glass....
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