Anyone ever encounter this problem, with any of their Fly, or other branded cars? Just got the car in today, so it's not seen any track time.
Trying to source a new chassis, if I have to, and my luck, I can't find one for the Joest. Any chance the chassis in boiling water with magnets trick would work?
That's not uncommon with FLY, Scalextric, NSR. Can happen with any car that's held down with a screw. The screws get overtightened, stress from being dropped during shipping, etc. Will not affect the performance of that car. The boiling water and magnet thing....worth trying(?)....I guess...but probably not going to work.
I do have two of the chassis in stock, will post a link as soon I create one.
Thanks guys, I managed to find a chassis from an SCI supporter, so thanks so much!!
Got another chassis on the way, and a few magnets while I'm at it.
Of ALL the cars I've ever bought, Fly, Scalextric, Carrera, Ninco... I've never had this issue. I can't believe I was so lucky for so long, if this is a normal occurrence!
It becomes a 'problem' when the screws are so tightened that the cracks connect to screw holes and etc. That usually will not happen with FLY, Scalextric as the screw will pull out of the chassis before the cracks really get started.
On NSR chassis there's not much plastic so the cracks do quickly expand to problem size.
Carrera screws are such that it would take a tremendous jolt to cause this to happen.
NINCO. Current screws should not be a problem. The old t-bars, still used on older models, don't crack the chassis but do themselves break this allowing the cars to bang around in the box.
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Last edited by 132slotcar.us; 09-21-2012 at 10:53 AM.
I've had it happen on a few brands. The worst one I had was a Scalextric GT40, and the screw ripped out of the chassis. The plastic was split and misaligned for half an inch in two directions, and the car still ran great. I really thought the car was doomed, but it wasn't a problem at all.
Check the rear wheels to be sure they are running true, it looks to me like the wheels were damaged.
Probably image distortion from using a wide angle setting. I have had that same thing happen on all sorts of brands, but more frequently with Fly than others.
I've had this problem on a few cars and usually a little sanding with a sanding stick gets rid of any bulge that might cause the chassis to bottom out. I also applied some liquid plastic cement that effectively sealed the cracks in the plastic.
Thanks for the replies! Yes, it is image distortion in the picture. The wheels are straight, on my "bling block".
Just got a bunch of Fly Ferrari 512s' in today, and lo and behold, another chassis crack. This one reaches all the way to a front screw hole. Hasn't contacted the screw hole yet, so I'm going to have to find an epoxy to fill the chassis with.
Fly Chassis issues?
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