Paul, Sorry I didn't answer your question. After all this is your thread! I missed it somehow along the way.
Yes I basically just trace the pod onto the Fly pan making sure that the axle in the pod aligns with the bushing bosses in the pan. You can cut it out with a hot exacto knife or a Dremel tool (I use a Dremel). This part isn't as critical as you might think. I also trim the sidewinder block out plate off of the side of the pod so that it will fit between the rails running along the pan ( the stock bushing saddles are there too). I then cut out two styrene "shelves" to be glued at each end of the pod to raise it up to the proper position in the chassis (pan). ( The bottom of the pod should be about even with the bottom of the pan.) This gives you the ride height of the rear end of the car and can be adjusted by using different thickness of styrene for the shelf. The shelf is where the precision comes in you want a good fit to the for and aft end of the pod because there isn't much space between the edge and the center of the pod attachment screws. I glue the shelves in with JB Weld. If you use the stock pan bushing saddles as an alignment guide, you can glue it all up square and true without a jig. If there is any doubt at all, use a jig. Here is a close up pic at the bottom.
I have a spare Fly Capri pan here that you can have if you want it. That will allow you to try podding it without molesting your original chassis. That way no harm no foul if ya screw it up. Send me a PM if you want it.
Mike
Sorry to be a pest Mike but I've found a good deal on a Sach's Capri (lighted) and I want to try to convert it with your donor chassis. Could you please post some more detailed pics of the modified chassis? It would be a tremendous help.
Okay, so after waiting for a month, my MRRC Toyota finally arrived yesterday. I had previously ordered some of Paul G's wondertires for the car and was anxious to see how the car would go. I knew from previous experience that the stock rubber was rubbish and would spin off upon hard acceleration.
The urethane tires are a very snug fit and even under full throttle stay nic and tight. With just the change of tires, the car was already doing some very fast laps. I decided to inspect the car a bit further and realised very quickly that the guide just wasn't deep enough. I swapped it out for a slot.it wood track guide and that was a BIG improvement. I also added just a dab of stick on weight inside the chassis. This car was really hauling the mail at this point and was very easy to drive. I will have to swap out the 30k motor because it's an unfair advantage over the rest of the cars in my Grp collection. My overal impression is that the Toyota is a serious contender in this class!
I was also able to work on my Fly Porsche 935. I swapped out the stock wheels and tires for Racer 935 wheels/rubber. The car is SOOOO much smoother now and with the added weight in the nose is as sure footed as any other car in this class. It's just not a zippy on my short straights due to being underpowered.
So far I've acquired the following:
Fly Porsche 935k3 (UFO)
Fly Racing BMW M1 (orange)
Fly Racing Ford Capri Turbo (Kokon Tools)
Fly Racing Ford Capri Turbo (light blue)
Carrera Ferrari 512bb LM (green)
MRRC Toyota (red)
Fly Lancia Beta Monte Carlo (red/white)
These all run pretty well with various levels of tuning. I've yet to acquire the Sideways car but I'm having so much fun with these...I don't mind waiting awhile. Maybe I'll wait for the release of the Sideways Lancia.
Some of the old Capri's are now being heavily discounted so I'm going to take on a motor relocation project with a front motored capri. Wish me luck!
Sorry to be a pest Mike but I've found a good deal on a Sach's Capri (lighted) and I want to try to convert it with your donor chassis. Could you please post some more detailed pics of the modified chassis? It would be a tremendous help.
Regards,
Paul
My Sachs Capri that I converted is lighted too. It's really cool to have a great handling car with head, tail & brake lights.
Here is a pic of the back end. I basically glued in a styrene shelf for the pod to rest on.
Here is a pic of the overall chassis. I built two chassis in a couple of different ways, this was the simplest. I used styrene to fill in the old motor cutout. that styrene extended back to also become the shelf for the front end of the pod. Holes are drilled in to secure the pod. I prefer the SCC pod bolt kit with the locking nut over the stock Slot.it screws.
You may notice that these pics are actually of two separate cars. These just happened to be the best pics of the bunch of pics I have. Both cars run very well. One has a long can pod. That pod is Slot.it knock off pod by one of the other companies. I forget which but it is the same except that it uses common bushings rather than spherical ones. The other chassis has an offset pod with an orange bell motor from a Racer. Both pods have the sidewinder block out flange trimmed away to narrow it up to fit between the Fly chassis rails.
Here is a pic of the modified interior before paint.
I basically just colored all of the white styrene in with a black felt pen. The driver, seat back w/ head restraint are all from the stock interior.
By the way, I mailed the chassis yesterday (9-20-12) standard post. You ought to get it pretty soon.
Mike
P.S. I forgot. I also flipped the light boards upside down so that the wires run over the top rather than the bottom as is stock. It was the easier to route the wires over the top clear more room for the pod.
Last edited by Nor Cal Mike; 09-21-2012 at 10:34 PM.
Reason: PS ADDED
Hey Paul, here's results from this week's race in the NJ Metro Slot Cars club Group 5 series. Not a big difference in mix of cars yet, except a couple guys used the MRRC Celica, including the winner. I've got one with a broken motor lead wire you can use when you race with us
01. Don J............106.10, MRRC Toyota Celica
02. Kim D............104.35, Sideways Capri
03. Bob P............102.13, Sideways Capri
04. Don W............102.11, Fly Racing BMW M1
05. Martin D.........102.03, Racer Porsche 935
05. Jeff Y...........102.03, Fly Capri (long can)
07. Larry J..........101.22, Sideways Capri
08. Carl B............98.23, Fly Racing Capri
09. Bill H............97.12, Sideways Capri
10. Zach S............96.28, Sideways Capri
11. Jim R.............96.09, Racer Porsche 935
12. Paul P............94.22, Fly Porsche 935
13. Andre F...........91.27, Ninco Porsche 911
14. Andre H...........89.03, Sideways Capri
15. Sam...............81.54, Fly Porsche 935
16. Robert H............DNF, MRRC Toyota Celica (motor lead wire)
Last edited by NJSLOT1_32; 09-22-2012 at 11:00 AM.
The 911 evidently raced 1st generation Group 5 back in the mid to late 1960's. The Ninco version is a decent car, the one that raced Friday night was a bit top heavy, but very quick, maybe needed some weight tuning.
Good stuff Rob. I've been able to work on the cars this weekend and mounted a slot.it 21k in the Lancia and 935. They are both very quick. The 935 may be the quickest of all.
I've been having a blast running these cars. It will be good to join the NJ crew one of these days to run in anger.
I''m going to try to convert a front motored Capri and build up a Lancia body as well.
I setup my Fly 935 with an NSR shark motor. The car I found ran every well. However the Sideways and Fly Capris were quick. But the race winner was an MRRC Celica. Don J. Had this car really hooked up. Don said that he needed to drive it to get the most out of it. I still think the Sideways cars are the ones to beat.
After the second race Friday I ran my Sideways car and ran the fastest laps. Granted this was not under race condtions.
I am glad that our group is running this class. It's filled with a lot of cars from different manufacturers.
Thanks Paul. It's surprising how good the stock 935 is with some tuning. It handles surprisingly well with the motor behind the rear axle. The slot.it motor really brought it to life.
I'm looking forward to trying out the Sideways car but I've got to wait a while. I'm going to build up another Lancia Beta (great car) and converst a front motored Capri to a rear motor mount using a slot.it motor pod.
You may want to try an FF Capri first. It's not that bad...
I have one and after some tuning, it performs surprizingly well. In fact it only has a Slot it 21.5k motor, but I think it could handle a yellow 25k one. It's probably the best of the FF Fly cars.
You may want to try an FF Capri first. It's not that bad...
I have one and after some tuning, it performs surprizingly well. In fact it only has a Slot it 21.5k motor, but I think it could handle a yellow 25k one. It's probably the best of the FF Fly cars.
TimKoul,
Are you referring to a stock, front motored Capri? If so, you are the first person that's ever said they were decent no mag cars. I'm curious as to what tuning you did to make it so. I've always read that the only read option to make it competitive was to relocate the motor.
Please tell me what you did and pictures would be nice too....please?
My front motored Fly Capri (w/ lights!) runs pretty well non mag. It has Indy grips and about 10 grams of lead just in front of the rear axle. Not as quick as the race version, but fun and forgiving to drive.
Hmmmm, thanks for the tip. I will certainly try to tune it first before chopping it up. I got one one sale so it won't hurt as much if I have to redo the chassis.
I just got my light blue (soon to be Gulf) Racing Capri and I'm wondering why the solid color versions got the nice bbs aluminum wheels and a deep guide and the later "Racers" got unrealistic black plastic wheels and a shallow guide???.
I just ordered the Martini decals for my Lancia Beta build up.
I'm torn between the Fly Wurth and the Fly Sachs...car for my next purchase.
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