Trim and fit headlight buckets to lens first then once dry glue in the complete assembly to the body.
Fit rear detail into rear panel then glue panel onto body, it is possible to do either way but this is way easier especially getting good fit on rear lights.
Trim almost all the surround on the front detail it fits in better then. I have images somewhere will find and post.
Fit windows with almost no excess as this makes fitting interior more difficult. Fit interior as flush with body as possible, especially around the rear to avoid contact with motor, gears and tires.
On the chassis clean up around the pod so it moves freely. Set front axle height to your track type. Set gear mesh, may need extra spacers behind the gear.
Fit tires that work for your track type, tires supplied are good on NINCO, for Sport or Carrera or wood we fit SC-2007, Sc-2008 or SC-2009 wheel & tire.
For slip on tires any that fit Slot.it rims will fit these cars.
Ca glue can "fog" the "glass" so to speak (as mentioned earlier). On models we used small amounts of Elmers glue. For slot cars we use CLEAR epoxy (5 min) on a tooth pick.
Ive been using Gorilla brand superglue and have yet to fog any piece of clear plastic Ive used it on, this includes a Racer 412P painted kit I just finished, used it on the windows and headlight lenses and the all the photoetched trim and resin interior, it holds better than any ca Ive used and Ive yet to find an application that it did not work on.
In some cases it might take a bit longer to work, but it does work, it also works great for the glue trick on Scaly bushings.
Also, if you keep the nozzle clean, unlike ca it wont clog and with the cap kept on just very slightly loose it always comes off and never dries out, Ive been using the same bottle(.53 oz.) for over a year,its 3/4 gone,best stuff I ever used.
Painting my body now, as to glue I use the CA for everything including the clear parts, it's just so convenient. It won't fog the glass if you hit it with zip kicker (CA accelerator) shortly after you glue it. You would think that we could get some good glass for this price or at least better fitting glass. Weight wars, ughhh....
CA glue & "fog":
Ca glue is a distilled product; common hardware store CA glue isn't highly distilled, the more expensive the glue, the higher distillation- generally. This is especially noticeable in the actual cure time & the advertised cure time & flashing of or 'fogging'.
less to no; flashing is a reaction to a couple factors & aggravated by impurities. CA is accelerated by moisture, so high humidity means faster cure times; then, because CA is an acrylic, there are reactions w/ some materials. Again, the better quality CA you buy, the better & more controllable the results. Flashing can also be caused by CA Accelerators. Flashing can often be removed from clear styrene or acrylic w/ alcohol, unless the 'flash' generated enough heat to scar the base material.
An easy way to control CA fogging, and to pinpoint application is to make a simple applicator.
Take a needle, and stick it into a small dowel or other handle. Now, use a Dremel with a cut off disk (safety glasses) and "gently grind" off the end of the eye to form a small "U" shape. I also bevel the cut a bit.
Now, put a drop of CA on a flat surface; I use an old plastic bottle cap. Dip the needle eye into the CA so it picks up a little in the "U". Depending on your control of the pick up, and the size of the needle, you will have a tiny amount of CA.
Touch the end of the "U" to the joint, and the CA will suck into the open area of the joint. Wait a few seconds, to set the bond, and then move to other points on the joint. You can use this method to easily bond pieces with little glue over run, fogging, and stronge joint.
When the "U" clogs with dried CA, just pass it into a flame for a second or two, and the CA disappear. Just mind the fumes, and keep them away from your eyes.
An easy way to control CA fogging, and to pinpoint application is to make a simple applicator.
Take a needle, and stick it into a small dowel or other handle. Now, use a Dremel with a cut off disk (safety glasses) and "gently grind" off the end of the eye to form a small "U" shape. I also bevel the cut a bit.
Now, put a drop of CA on a flat surface; I use an old plastic bottle cap. Dip the needle eye into the CA so it picks up a little in the "U". Depending on your control of the pick up, and the size of the needle, you will have a tiny amount of CA.
Touch the end of the "U" to the joint, and the CA will suck into the open area of the joint. Wait a few seconds, to set the bond, and then move to other points on the joint. You can use this method to easily bond pieces with little glue over run, fogging, and stronge joint.
When the "U" clogs with dried CA, just pass it into a flame for a second or two, and the CA disappear. Just mind the fumes, and keep them away from your eyes.
An easy way to control CA fogging, and to pinpoint application is to make a simple applicator.
Take a needle, and stick it into a small dowel or other handle. Now, use a Dremel with a cut off disk (safety glasses) and "gently grind" off the end of the eye to form a small "U" shape. I also bevel the cut a bit.
Now, put a drop of CA on a flat surface; I use an old plastic bottle cap. Dip the needle eye into the CA so it picks up a little in the "U". Depending on your control of the pick up, and the size of the needle, you will have a tiny amount of CA.
Touch the end of the "U" to the joint, and the CA will suck into the open area of the joint. Wait a few seconds, to set the bond, and then move to other points on the joint. You can use this method to easily bond pieces with little glue over run, fogging, and stronge joint.
When the "U" clogs with dried CA, just pass it into a flame for a second or two, and the CA disappear. Just mind the fumes, and keep them away from your eyes.
Bill
Wish I had known this before I purchased a $15 tool from Micro Mark to do the same job.
While wandering through Hobby Lobby for other projects I spied some stuff on an end cap called Amazing E-6000. It claims that it is flexible, paintable, waterproof, safe for photographs, blah, blah, blah. So I fell for the ad campaign and bought a tube. When using E-6000 it smells like Sho-Goo to me but it is much thinner... And easier to use... So I used it to glue the headlights and other parts in my Arrow Saleen.
So far so good... We will see how it holds up to racing.
This is my favourite glue, I like the viscosity, the no fogging, the smaller tube opening and the way it dries relatively quickly. I have used it on a few proxy cars, and even though it took a licking it keeps on sticking!!
Tips I found building 10 of these.
Linear Mode
