Indy, the 1/24th run at 18V and you can run the 1/32 at that voltage. There was a question on the durability of the D132 chip but so far I have not seen anyone post about frying chips. I'f you're not running digital I think it would just be a question of possibly shorter motor life. Again, no one has posted anything otherwise.
I don't have any 1/24th so I don't know what kind of voltage you can run with those motors and still live. Good luck with the Super Speedway!!!!!
Without magnets there is a limit as to how much power you can put down. We run at 10 volts and the cars are still fast on a large track like Area 51. On a large banked oval you can run higher voltages, the motors may not last as long but they will still last long enough. You will probably see a lot of body damage if you crash very much and there is the danger of snapping off guide flag holders. Since replacement chassis are not available for many cars you may have to figure out how to replace the guide flag holders if you want to keep your cars running. Most of the aftermarket power supplies that people use are good for 15 volts. Power supplies that are good for more than 15 volts tend to be much more expensive. At higher voltages a short circuit can do more damage when you have a big power supply, so be sure that you have each lane fused. At higher voltages you may also have to use a different controller.
Rich, he's running Carrera track and alot of Carrera cars. That's what I'm going on. Indy I should have clarified. Those are factory Carrera car voltages. Might also be a reason why Carrera cars don't do well at other tracks, lower voltage.
if you are making the switch to no-mag, i personally think that 12v is plenty - even for a large speedway like you have planned. you can probably get away with as much as 14 or 15v on a very large track (by very large, i mean a commercial track). but driving no-mag on the average home track is going to be much more pleasant at 12v or less.
We run everything at 10V and it's plenty enough. If you're just learning non-mag start lower and work you're way up if that's what you want to do. However, as the volts go up...the cars characteristics will also change. I suggest you find a voltage and leave it.
On my Carrera track, we race 1/24th scale Carrera cars @ 18-20V (depending on who is racing......).
Bone stock 1/32 Slot-it Group C cars at 12-14V (depending on how brave you are.....), and other
1/32 cars and classes are pretty much all over the place. Anywhere from 10 to 20 V. It varies on driver skill or experience, and car or class and how it's set up.
Revell Vintage NASCAR's w/ different rear tires and 1 extra magnet are quite intense @ 20V.