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  #16  
Old 01-05-2018, 02:25 PM
b.yingling b.yingling is offline
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Originally Posted by carlosinseattle View Post
I removed the capacitor and the problems were solved. The ferrite bead can stay in place, but the cap needs to be removed in order to work with Carrera digital timing and scoring.

I have a friend who didn't have a problem with his Carson chipped cars, I'll see them this weekend and try to find out why.
Just curious- does removing this capacitor cause any issue if you switch the car back to SSD ? I know the ferrite man should be in place, but I'm not familiar enough with Scaley to know what the result of removing this capacitor is?
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2018, 02:44 PM
carlosinseattle carlosinseattle is offline
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Yes sir, the chip blows, sometimes with a little puff of smoke I blew 4+ chips because of that a couple years ago before Mr F. looked at my car to see what the problem was. Funny thing is a couple chips blew as soon as I put the car on the track, one lasted an entire race, and another went for part of a race. There were several generations of their chips out there, not sure which ones were more susceptible to blowing up quicker.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2018, 10:33 AM
carlosinseattle carlosinseattle is offline
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Just had a race this past weekend and noticed one other thing that's different about the Carson chip.

You can't do the double tap method to code cars when other cars are racing on the track. With Carrera OEM cars you can doe any car any where when other cars are running, but not with the Carson chip. Not sure if that's because of the Scalextric wiring or the firmware in the chip, but we always had to use the CU code button to code cars.
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2018, 10:43 AM
b.yingling b.yingling is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosinseattle View Post
Just had a race this past weekend and noticed one other thing that's different about the Carson chip.

You can't do the double tap method to code cars when other cars are racing on the track. With Carrera OEM cars you can doe any car any where when other cars are running, but not with the Carson chip. Not sure if that's because of the Scalextric wiring or the firmware in the chip, but we always had to use the CU code button to code cars.
That's a shame- not a show stopper, but definitely a shame. That ability is one of the best minor-but-fantastic details about Carrera digital. Although I know there are a lot of D1XX users (many here on this board) who don't even know about it.

The fact that you should remove a cap for D1XX, and that same cap needs to be in place for SSD sort of robs the Carson chip of what I've always thought was it's most appealing attribute- easy swap between the two systems.

Of course, I have no plans to ever run on SSD , so the Carson chip has very limited appeal for me, as I don't mind a little cutting and drilling and soldering if I chip an off brand car. But then my DPR car purchases are few and far between.
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2018, 08:35 PM
carlosinseattle carlosinseattle is offline
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Looks like the Carson chip will be used best/most for guys who want to permanently use Scalextric DPR cars on Carrera DXXX. We set up a second CU at our event so guys could use it to code their cars and seamlessly join the field. It's the same thing we do with SSD .

That crazy removal of the capacitor is a bit more troubling. Some cars ran just fine with the cap in place and others lit up the CU and RMS board like a Christmas tree. Greg (Mr Flip)'s car was literally sending feedback at a rate of about 10X per second until after we removed the cap. Afterwards it ran like a champ.

So I now rate the Carson chip at about 5/10 overall. The big selling point was the ability to swap the car back and forth between the two systems with less than 30 seconds of work. If you're going to use a car that way the time it takes will be 10-30 minutes based on soldering skills. Factor that in with loss functionality, ghost car pace car and easy coding, and the price, it makes it a cool idea but by no means a must have. It's cheaper to have a DPR chip and convert the non DPR door with a Carrera chip attached to the top of it. The only downside is having to open up the car to change it and changing the plug arrangement over from the non digital DPR cover. I've done it to a couple DBR 9's and they work great.
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  #21  
Old 01-08-2018, 09:09 PM
Rubirosa Rubirosa is offline
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You could solder the cap in the lead wire from the SSD chip to the motor before the connector - that way you unplug the the SSD chip from the motor including the cap. Connect the Carson chip with the motor without the cap...

Cheers!

Seb
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  #22  
Old 01-08-2018, 09:22 PM
carlosinseattle carlosinseattle is offline
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That's an option but I don't think it would work because the "ferrite man" component needs to be at that braid end of the wires and together. There is a second cap on the motor already and it doesn't help with Carrera using the Carson chip, at least I don't think it does. SSD cars need 2 capacitors, one on the wire and another on the motor.

So unless I'm not understanding what you're saying it doesn't seem like it would make a difference.
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  #23  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:21 AM
Drewbert34 Drewbert34 is offline
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Default Carson chips sputtering / stuttering / cutting out.

A very, very strange issue...

We currently run 4 Carson chipped Scalextric cars (2 x Trans-am / 2 x Nascar) and never had 1 issue. The cars ran beautifully.

Eventually, the stock Scaley guides would either not trigger lane changers, or they just weren't deep enough / wide enough of a guide for good competition.

With no other changes, I swapped the guides to slotting plus, and that's where the nightmare began. Simple, you say? The problem is the guide braids or lead wire!...nope. I've tried every braid , lead wire configuration (remember, all was fine prior to guide change), etc. to include soldering the lead wire directly to the braids!

Eventually, Trans-am cars have smoothed out and run flawless; however, the Nascars continue to be a nightmare. I've swapped harnesses, chips...you name it! I've shimmed the guide up, down, every adjustment I can think of.

The only conclusion I can come to is this:

We run magless. Currently, The Trans-am's handle better than the Nascars in turns. They tend to slide smoothly when breaking traction and the front ends don't bite too hard, causing that front end bounce we all know (if not using independent front ends). The Nascars are not as smooth and have more bite both front and rear. If the car tilts or bounces enough to disrupt the braid contact...even the slightest...the car stutters for at least 1/4 to 1/2 a lap before it regains it's composure.

I've tried:

Different braids /lengths of braids
Different lead wires (both Scalextric / Pioneer with and without Ferrite man)
Different motors
Different chips (known working well in Trans-am

I've concluded that, for no mag racing, the Carson chip is too particular to braid contact / rail & braid cleanliness. I've never seen a more difficult car where 20 + other cars have no issue.

I'm betting an adjustable front end solves the issue. If I can think to, I will try that and report back.

Of final note, the exact same car, part for part (have swapped from one to the other) has zero issues. The only difference is my backup car still has the stock Scaley quick change braid plate and nightmare cars do not.
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  #24  
Old 08-28-2018, 06:25 AM
Drewbert34 Drewbert34 is offline
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For some reason I could not edit my original post...

I've also tried:

Guide length
Guide depth
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  #25  
Old 01-21-2019, 08:00 PM
myared myared is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlosinseattle View Post
Just had a race this past weekend and noticed one other thing that's different about the Carson chip.

You can't do the double tap method to code cars when other cars are racing on the track. With Carrera OEM cars you can doe any car any where when other cars are running, but not with the Carson chip. Not sure if that's because of the Scalextric wiring or the firmware in the chip, but we always had to use the CU code button to code cars.

You can code a car when other cars are running on the track, with the "double tap" method?! How does one execute the double tap method?


Thanks.
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  #26  
Old 01-22-2019, 06:11 AM
b.yingling b.yingling is offline
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Originally Posted by myared View Post
You can code a car when other cars are running on the track, with the "double tap" method?! How does one execute the double tap method?


Thanks.
Before the CU came out, back in the dark old Black Box days, it was the *only* way to code cars.

You place the car on the track, squeeze your controller's lane change button twice, lift the front end of the car from the track and replace it (you just need to quickly break the braids' contact with the rails), then squeeze your lane change button twice once again.

The timing takes a little practice, but it's pretty much the only way I code cars. Using the CU just seems clumsy and cumbersome to me: Have to make every one stop, have to walk over to the CU, have to remove every car from the track except the one you want to code, then push the buttons, then replace all the other cars on the track, then (maybe) walk back to your controller position.

Last edited by b.yingling; 01-22-2019 at 06:17 AM.
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  #27  
Old 01-23-2019, 03:33 PM
myared myared is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.yingling View Post
Before the CU came out, back in the dark old Black Box days, it was the *only* way to code cars.

You place the car on the track, squeeze your controller's lane change button twice, lift the front end of the car from the track and replace it (you just need to quickly break the braids' contact with the rails), then squeeze your lane change button twice once again.

The timing takes a little practice, but it's pretty much the only way I code cars. Using the CU just seems clumsy and cumbersome to me: Have to make every one stop, have to walk over to the CU, have to remove every car from the track except the one you want to code, then push the buttons, then replace all the other cars on the track, then (maybe) walk back to your controller position.

So to be clear, with the CU you can have cars running on the track, and at the same time place another one on the track, press the code button, press the lane change button of the controller twice, lift the car's braids off the track for a second, place the car back on the track, press the lane change button twice again, and the car is coded to that controller with the other cars running on the track not affected?
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  #28  
Old 01-23-2019, 10:13 PM
MrFlippant MrFlippant is offline
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Don't press the code button. The car+LC*2+lift+replace+LC*2 is all you need.
the other cars on the track are not effected.
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  #29  
Old 01-24-2019, 06:50 AM
b.yingling b.yingling is offline
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That's what makes this so useful- the only thing you need are you, your controller, and the car(s) you're running.

You don't have to get to the CU, you don't need any other drivers to stop, you don't need to move from your spot. Just place the car on the track, click twice, lift/replace, and click twice.
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  #30  
Old 01-24-2019, 08:46 AM
myared myared is offline
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Oh man, this is a great trick! I'm trying it as soon as I'm back home today. Thanks guys!


Hey, what other tricks do you veterans have up your sleeves? I don't want to derail this thread so is there one dedicated for such tricks that aren't publicized by Carrera (at least as far as I know) for some reason?
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