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  #16  
Old 08-19-2012, 12:23 PM
Hilltop Speedway Hilltop Speedway is offline
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Hey bd, Not sure what type of cable wire you are using??? I tried some picture hanging type flexible cable which was a stranded wire, twisted together like rope. It was great for dropping into the grove. The drawback was a louder roar sound from the shoes runing across the strands, so I went no further. This was a routed 4x8 test track. Just something you may want to check under running conditions...RM
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  #17  
Old 08-20-2012, 06:00 AM
bdsharp bdsharp is online now
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I've seen that picture-hanging wire, but this is something different. 7x7 construction means that seven very fine wires (32ga?) are twisted together, then seven of these strands are twisted to form the final 1/16" cable with a very smooth surface. 7x19 is even finer, but costs twice as much. Search "wire rope" at McMaster-Carr.

Also, the stainless cable does have some magnetic properties. I don't have any numbers, but just by subjectively pulling a magnet off of it, there is definitely some attraction but definitely less than the plain steel.

Last edited by bdsharp; 08-21-2012 at 07:12 AM.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:56 AM
bdsharp bdsharp is online now
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Well, I've punted the plan for cable rails on the Leadfoot Speedway; I just couldn't get consistent enough slot depth for accurate installation. Since I don't want magnet racing anyway, I've gone back to the copper tape that I've used before. I only anticipate using my own cars on this track, so here's what I did to get current Auto World tjets running on copper.

Cut strips of .005" brass about .09" wide. It cuts easily with scissors, and even though it curls, it flattens out well with smooth-jaw pliers.

Bend a small hook at one end.

Remove the stock pickup shoes and springs. Hook the strip over the front of the chassis and cut it to slide under the stock conductors. Tack-solder in place.

Solder #3 (.1") braided solder-wick to the upper part of the hook. Hold all but the very end of the braid with pliers so the solder doesn't wick down the braid (as it's supposed to do). The solder-wick is available from any good electronic component supplier.

Bend the braid around to the bottom of the chassis and cut just behind the guide pin. This length will allow the car to slide, but won't short the copper tape if it gets completely sideways.

The cars now work great on copper. Yes, each car has to be modified but it's easy and cheap. And it's reversible if you want to put the original pickups back on.
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