Slot.it SCP-1 Question

[JDR]

I just got a SCP-1 today and I remembered this thread. Did anyone ever make a downloadable diagram like Dr. Vanski made? Since mine was backordered from before Christmas I assume I have a model that was made very recently. Despite what was posted in response #25, there was no mention of a sticker. I also checked Slot.it's Download page and couldn't find anything. That was a post from September, 2010 so I guess Slot.it has abandoned the idea. Still seems like a good idea to me.

[redlynr]

Not that I have seen or heard of... I've come up with my own cheat sheet and your post has kicked me to get mine into the computer, so I can print it and get it in the controller... (I removed the large slot.it 'frame' on the back and I will be taping my cheat sheet inside the controller where it once lived, nice and protected) Thanks!

I forgot to add my findings on my 1.0 controller...

I asked Maurizio about trimming off the full and off throttle 'stops' and he said it should work. (look at the scale in the controller that the trigger pointer indicates, mine only went from like 10 to 30) I trimmed the 'stops' off and gained quite a bit of trigger throw. Stock trigger throw was killing me; too short, imo. Much better for me, and I've been happy ever since.

[slotbutton]

I trimmed the 'stops' off and gained quite a bit of trigger throw.

Now that sounds like a good idea! Something I should have tried before giving up on it!

[Slot_it_Bob]

I am actually looking to shorten the trigger throw. That is the beauty of this controller. Very adaptable to the driver's needs and likes.

[Slot_it_Bob]

Final artwork I put together. The pdf file is 2X the actual size. The jpeg is for viewing only
I added a notch area that you will cut out to reveal the dip switches.

Looking for input on what you might want to add.
Thanks,
Bob

[MrFlippant]

It's a great start, Bob, but I had a couple problems.
1) It prints out too large. I did what I could to eliminate any zooming that Adobe was doing, but it looks like the PDF is not meant to be printed without some manipulation. I'd need to know what scale to print at for the best fit on the controller.

2) even at the larger print size, the notations on the charts are illegibly small.

So, some suggestions:

1) Make everything as LARGE as possible within the confines of the "sticker" borders.

2) When I made a test design of the DIP switch settings, I put little black arrows pointing to the switch position (from white, pointing into red), so that I knew at a glance what position each should be in. I also made the Percentage font larger and clearer, and left off the % to give me more room.

3) I would remove the frame outside each of the graphs, and also the name above them. The color coding is enough to help identify which graph is for which knob, and the knobs already have names above them, so those are redundant.

4) Make the colors lines more bold, or darker, especially the yellow one. It's ok if it's darker than the actual yellow on the controller, so long as it still look yellow.

5) Take away some of those "interim" lines, and just show a min and max line with an arrow between them showing which way it is from min to max. The goal is to show what effect the knobs have on the curve, not each of the possible iterations.

6) The Curve Max knob is the hardest to represent. A picture of the knob is not helpful, so that should be eliminated to give more room to the others, if an explanatory image can't be created. I wish I had an idea for a good replacement, but I'm drawing a blank.

7) If you're using the full height of the area for the sticker, with the notch for the DIP switches, well, use the full height of the sticker for the imagery printed on it. At the final size, even high res printing will be hard to read without glasses for most of us. Get them as big and bold as possible.

[Slot_it_Bob]

Print the pdf at 50%, The dark blue line will be 3.33" wide and 1.5" tall.
I will make the other changes and repost.
Thanks for your input.

[retro racer 44]

A couple of months ago I bought a Slot.it SCP-1 1.1 controller. As I got familiar with it and the settings, it became my number 1 choice. The last two race nights, it has acted up and I have had to go to my Professor Motor 'back-up'.

For no apparent reason it does not deliver power to the car. If I squeeze release a couple of times the car finally does go, but haltingly. I tried a different car with the same results, tried a different controller and there were no symptoms. I changed from Linear to Curve, but that didn't help. I tried different settings on the knobs and that didn't help. Sometimes it would suddenly start and run fine for a lap or two and then act up all over again.

Has anyone out there had similar problems? Maurizio, does this sound like anything you can advise me on? We run our track, Luf's Targa 5, usually on either 10 or 12 volts depending on the type of cars run. We were running the Auslot SCX Rally proxy at 13v when the problem first showed itself.

I usually love this controller, but it is becoming unreliable, and I hope there is an easy fix involved.

[Tim ... Guy]

Double check to make sure the end conectors are not becoming loose. I believe some have a scew and some may have a solder joint. Also check to see whether the magnetic pickup has come loose on the trigger.

Tim

[MrFlippant]

It also sounds like maybe the magnet on the trigger has gotten loose. It doesn't matter where it is, so long as the only motion detected is that of the trigger. The fix is to open it up and get some thin CYA glue into the magnet holder so that the magnet is held securely. This has never happened to me, but I've read about similar problems and that was often the solution.

[Profoxcg]

are there any ball bearings inside the SCP 1.1 ?

[MrFlippant]

I don't think so. I think the trigger is just on a bushing.

[Scaleracing]

Sounds like a wire may be broken, making then losing contact inside of its insulation.
Check this, also check for a loose magnet on the trigger, but this sounds like a broken wire.

Normally the symptom of a loose magnet is inconsistent brakes, or car running at slow speed with no trigger input.

Failing all of this come to the Scaleracing Event June 1st-2nd at www.132slotcar.us and we will have Slot.it technicians on-site to service and or test your Slot.it products.

This service will be provided free of charge once entered for the races. Friday night and Saturday $20.00 all inclusive

[retro racer 44]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone, The magnet is tight in place, and I checked the wires with a meter. The white one has a short. Now I just have to unwire it and cut off a few inches and try again. I think the problem may be at the bottom of the handle. There is a rubber buffer, and then the cord was bent over in my case, and it probably has broken inside. Now I have to figure out how to transport my controller without bending the cable.

[Slot_it_Bob]

I had one of the wires break on first cartridge. I replaced the stock wire loom with 16 gauge silicone wire and never had anher issue.