I just picked up several new NSR cars. And they look great--BUT--I seem to be having trouble getting TOO much bite!! The cars chatter sometimes severely when you jump on the throttle coming out of a corner. Enough that they will jump out of the slot!! I've tried tightening up the chassis screws a little to take play out of them--but it will then get to a point where they are loose--without getting rid of the chatter?? Do I need to go to a different tire? OR--does the stiffer chassis sections that we can order work to take the chatter out. I've also found of course that I don't need the drop arm feature--I've been taking that out of the car by screwing this down--and they work better. We aren't running off-road or rally cars--why have a drop arm??
My Slot-it cars with Super Tires on them are the BOMB!! Maybe I need super tires on my NSR cars?? These tires seem to work great without creating a chatter problem.
BTW--I'm running on a smooth routed track with Varathane top surface. Works GREAT for most cars --foam or rubber tires. NSR is just a new animal--one that I thought would work well out of the box.
We run lots of NSR cars on the four wood tracks in our club with great success. Matter of fact, they are probably our favorites.
You MUST glue the rear stock tires to the rim.They fit loose on the rim to start with and will cause most of the chatter you speak about. With a tooth pick, glue both inner and outer lip of the tire to the rim. Then true on a tire truer or sanding block until all tread is gone. Don't forget to profile both edges of the tire also. No need to glue the fronts, but true and profile is recommended. Be aware or front tire rub on some of the models. Tape or hot glue the motor to keep it from moving in the pod. We run the body fairly loose and the pod barely loose and taped with cargofast tape. Some of the NSR classic models are light in the front end and may require very little lead toward the front. Some of ours would do wheelies when starting from a stop.
Good luck with your tuning and let us know how they came out.
I my self have never had these problems with NSR's but have had them with other brands. I Just posted a thread about tuning. Please check it out. It is called Blue Printing 101. I hope it will solve your problem.
One thing to consisder is the NSR 21,500 rpm King motor is a beast of a motor. Alot of torque, alot of speed. If your car has this motor and it is undriveable I would suggest a slower motor or one with less torque. The motor in the classics, 20,000 rpm Shark is a much easier motor to tame and make work for you.
The drop arm thing. I guess NSR wanted to make some rally killers. In some rally racing you absolutely have to have a drop arm. In other racing.... maybe, maybe not. In our racing at Slingshot's (a ninco 114 foot track) we have again raised the bar with some NSR corvettes, these cars are going faster and farther than any other car in a 30 minute race. My car has the arm loose. The reason being, on some of the Ninco track pieces get deformed a little causing some random offs. The solution is one or a combination of the following adjustments, loosen the drop arm, put in some guide shims, adjust the front axle higher, and/or truing down the front tires. Most do not run with the arm loose, but it works for me on this track.
Other adjustment to the cars are
chassis material - nsr generally makes at least 3 different chassis for each car. Softer chassis' give more grip, but have more chatter. Harder chassis' have less grip and less chatter. Sometimes less chatter gives you better grip, or at least more predictible grip.
track width - if you do not have enough grip, move the rear wheels closer together. Wider is not always better. However, having a wide front track width really helps stabilize the car.
tire rub - get rid of it, or don't induce it with adjustments intended to get the car to do something else.
shims - guide shims help get the guide in the correct position. Shim the body post to help tire rub, motor rub, etc. Axle shims for different track widths and/or gear mesh on the anglewinders.
suspension - I have only run suspension kits on Ninco track and it works for Ninco. For wood it is a different setup.
Motor screws - on the anglewinder motors, be sure to use 2 screws to secure the motor to the motor pod.
gearing - NSR makes a lot of different gears, re-gearing can really help some cars out. But too much motor is still too much motor no matter what.
Low Tech gave you some good advice. My main experience involves the NSR classic sidewinder series. Anglewinders on wood are a different animal than sidewinders and inlines.
I got some anglewinder NINCO's to run well on wood by bracing the motor to the pod.
On Southern Slotter's 100 foot wood track we run about 10-10.5 volts. If you are running more voltage, this will contribute to your handling issues. These cars are rockets at this voltage when setup properly, will turn sub-9 second laps with a very good driver.
Tim if your going to be around on the 30th or 1st maybe we can get together and play and tune. I ran my NSR cars on your track with no problems the first time I came down. I know your track is more rubbered in now so we can try it out.
I have the same issue as Tim. My only NSR car is a Corvette and while it is ballistically fast, I cannot get rid of the chatter on hard acceleration out of turns. It's so bad that I will not spend that amount of money on another NSR car until I find out how to fix it.
I have tried foam tires on the car and that solves the issue, but for our racing foam tires are not the answer. Silicone tires also reduce the chatter by reducing the grip, but again, it's not that answer. I would like to get the car to work on its own tires, I can get my Slot.it cars to work great on NSR rubber.
I thought the Corvette came with the stiffest chassis already?
I also think going to a narrower rear tires may help and lower gearing moving the torque away from the exit speed on the track is what I was going to try on my Mosler as it has the most problem and also wider tires than my other NSR.
DC motors have the most torque at 0 rpm (whats called "locked rotor") so the higher it is revving on exit of the corner makes the torque further away from max..... worth a try and could smooth it out ..... We run at 12v so they are real fast! The Mosler is much harder to drive so try the gears ...... I will not buy any more either unless it's a release I "have to have"as I think the Slot It and some others are a better value.
The last time I ran my GT40 at Dennis's track it was nice.... it has much less tire on it.
Last edited by HarVWallbanger; 11-23-2011 at 02:58 PM.
I thought the Corvette came with the stiffest chassis already?
The Vette comes with the medium chassis and hard pod.
We (HVSC) run on a 130ft Ogilvie at 10 volts and the car is fast almost too fast, I have the black and the Compuware, Im going to the inline hard pod with a softer motor and different gearing, we also run silicones so the NSR rubber is good but Im not going with it, I know lap times will be much better at our track with this setup..
I spent some time with my NSR Corvette yesterday, this is what I did:
First off, I glued the droparm to the chassis. My track and others that I ride on are smooth enough that I won't need it, so I smeared some tire glue in the slot where the drop arm fits and held everythign nice and flat while the glue dried.
Then I got out my hot glue gun and hot glued the motor and the axle bushings to the motor pod.
Finally, I added a short 2mm Screw to the rear motor mount hole. I tried to get on into the front hole too, but there's no space to get a screwsriver in to tighten it.
I had already glued and trued the tires, but I re-checked them anyway and rounded off the edges a bit. I had also previously fitted the spring suspension to the pod, but it was tightened up, so I loosened it off again, just a bit in front and a fair amount on the rear springs so the pod has nice movement.
I mounted the body with very little movement, probably just 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose on the screws. THe car was OK with the body tight, but a little better with it just floating.
These mods have transformed the car. It is now smooth and fast, a pleasure to drive.
I guess the most important changes were the glueing and screwing of the motor to the pod, as that really stiffened things up.
I might now consider some other NSR GT3 cars...........!
are these long can motors or short can ? I would screw down the motors if they are long cans and hot glue in the motors if short. that always fixes the chatter in my cars. the long can pods already have holes for motor screws.
The motors are long can. These are for the Corvette, Porsche 997 and Audi. NSR has made an inline pod for these cars, also for the long can motor. These cars cannot accept sidewinder pods. By the way NSR short can (fc-130) motors do not have any holes for screwing them to the pod.