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Go Back   Slot Car Illustrated Forum > Manufacturer's Corner > SCX > SCX Digital

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  #1  
Old 02-21-2013, 06:56 PM
Cajarana171 Cajarana171 is offline
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Default Scx digital Ferrari FXX head lights

I got a used Yellow FXX analog and installed a digital chip. The brake ligths work fine but the head lights dont lgth up at all. Now if I take the body out of the chassi and place on the tracks lining the light contacts to the track all ligths work. Any idea what is going on?
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2013, 09:24 PM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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The front portion of the light circuit might be shorting with something on the chassis (which is bad because it can damage the LED's over time). In many cases, this could be the yellow capacitor that wraps around the pick up arms on a digital chip. If you are using a chip with this cap, snip it off since it's really not needed (intended use was to prevent RF interference on TV broadcast). Here is a pic for reference regarding the cap.



Let us know if this was the solution or not.

Dave

Last edited by LDFan; 02-21-2013 at 09:44 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2013, 02:28 AM
JuanLUX JuanLUX is offline
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This is a very common issue with the FXX's. I have two of them (the red and the yellow) and both suffer the same problem. This is due to the reduced height of the car that cause the front thin plates of the light circuit not to contact the light section of the chip. Apart from bending these plates in order to look for the appropriate position, I think that the best option is to solder directly a cable instead of the plates.
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:13 AM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanLUX View Post
This is due to the reduced height of the car that cause the front thin plates of the light circuit not to contact the light section of the chip.
If the case was that the legs of the light circuit were not hitting the chip, then there would not be any lights working. Since the tail lights are coming on, that means contact is occurring but something else is obstructing or shorting out the headlights.


Quote:
Apart from bending these plates in order to look for the appropriate position, I think that the best option is to solder directly a cable instead of the plates.
Solder is always a great option to obtain a better connection. However, if I were to do this, I'd want to solder on a small connector so I could disengage the body and chassis completely for the sake of maintenance.

Dave

Last edited by LDFan; 02-22-2013 at 09:17 AM.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2013, 03:21 PM
Cajarana171 Cajarana171 is offline
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Default Some progress

JuanLux is correct about the heigth. (just in case I put some tape on the light circuit above where the motor almost touch it)But LDFan hit the nail i the head, or almost.

Before tail ligths where on when it should and no head lights.

Now tail and head ligths are on only when the car is in movement. As soon as the car stop (not when I let go the trigger) the ligths go off.

Thank you Juanlux and LDFan and I would like to hear your opinion on the light behavior now?.
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2013, 05:23 PM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajarana171 View Post
Now tail and head ligths are on only when the car is in movement. As soon as the car stop (not when I let go the trigger) the ligths go off.

Thank you Juanlux and LDFan and I would like to hear your opinion on the light behavior now?.
Pretty simple really; you moved the legs of the light circuit a tad bit to the rear and now they are touching the motor pads.

This pic says it all.



Dave
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:35 AM
Cajarana171 Cajarana171 is offline
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Ok. Once again you were rigth. But when I adjust the ligth legs towards the digital chip only the tail lights turn on as it should and no head ligths. If I move legs towards the motor pads no ligths on, until the car is moving. If I place the body on the tracks all ligths on.

What now Dave?

Thank you

Andre

By the way I did cut the noise filtering capaior wire.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:52 AM
KDRaven KDRaven is offline
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if you take the body off the chassis and turn it (body) over you will see the brass rails that connect the front lights to the back lights and the pickup legs. take a strip of electrical tape and cover these brass strips and if they cross over each other tape between them.

It is correct that the body is lower and that the brass strips short out to either the motor or the capacitor legs.

from the factory they did not tape to insulate the brass rails.

That is waht I had to do to mine to get the lights to work.

Keith
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2013, 02:41 PM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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After what Keith mentioned above, it got me thinking that I haven't opened up my FXX in quite awhile so I didn't remember if there was anything different about the brass rails for the lights.

So after opening my car, it does appear as the pic below indicates, that SCX was suppose to insulate the rails on these cars. This is actually a "factory" tape job which explains why I never had any issues.



So if your car never came like this, you need to do what is shown above.


Also, here is a pic showing the chassis and body side by side. If you notice, the chance for a short can occur where the motor capacitor (orange part soldered between the motor leads) is located which would explain why the lights only worked when the light circuit touched the motor pads.




So once you tape up those light circuits, you should be fine from this point forward. Obviously, SCX should have taped in the first place.

Dave


__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________________

Adendum:

I just realized from reading the original post that the car in question was "used". Thus, I don't want to imply that SCX missed the spot if there is a chance that the previous owner of the car inadvertently removed the tape. Although, I wouldn't be surprised if a small number of these cars could have came with no insulating tape.

Last edited by LDFan; 02-24-2013 at 10:24 PM. Reason: Grammatical corrections
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2013, 04:43 PM
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BiigRiich BiigRiich is offline
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Thanks everyone! I've been following this thread since I have the same problem. Moved the legs forward and taped the body. Result: Works like a charm.
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  #11  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:00 PM
Cajarana171 Cajarana171 is offline
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Default Will try that soon

I need to buy a soldering iron now. I moved the legs so much that one broke. I is about time for me to buy one and see if still can use it. I will post back when fix the leg.

Thank you
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  #12  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:04 PM
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BiigRiich BiigRiich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cajarana171 View Post
I need to buy a soldering iron now. I moved the legs so much that one broke. I is about time for me to buy one and see if still can use it. I will post back when fix the leg.

Thank you
Ouch! I've had that happen and FYI the legs can't be soldered in my opinion. I Had to use small wire connector and solder that to both ends.
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  #13  
Old 02-25-2013, 09:33 PM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiigRiich View Post
Ouch! I've had that happen and FYI the legs can't be soldered in my opinion. I Had to use small wire connector and solder that to both ends.

They can be re-soldered back but the leg will be a little stiffer (which is good so long as it's as close to the original position it came in).

Just be careful how you place the iron above the half tray interior; you don't want to accidentally melt it.

Dave

Last edited by LDFan; 02-25-2013 at 09:42 PM.
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:20 PM
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BiigRiich BiigRiich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDFan View Post
They can be re-soldered back but the leg will be a little stiffer (which is good so long as it's as close to the original position it came in).

Just be careful how you place the iron above the half tray interior; you don't want to accidentally melt it.

Dave
I stand corrected. My lack of success then was probably due to one of 2 reasons: 1% chance it was my impatience. And I would venture to guess there's a 99% chance it was due to my lack of soldering skills.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2013, 12:12 AM
LDFan LDFan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiigRiich View Post
I stand corrected. My lack of success then was probably due to one of 2 reasons: 1% chance it was my impatience. And I would venture to guess there's a 99% chance it was due to my lack of soldering skills.
Actually, I do admit it's not the easiest thing to solder since trying to hold the broken leg and then soldering will mean a hot finger from the heat transfer.

Basically, one needs to position the leg just right and apply the solder very quickly.

Dave
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