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  • 3D bodies & chassis & accessories

    I've not been 3DP'ing for long, maybe 6 weeks but already I'm spending far more time on my pc designing on 3D software than working at my bench under the stairs.

    Here's some of my 1/32 prints.

    Studebaker Champion + NSR'ised Champion. Fly BMW M1 (rally). Sloter Manta 400 (rally). NSR Corvette C7R. Team Slot Renault Alpine A310 V6 (rally). SCX Fiat Abarth 124 (rally). MSC Ford RS200 at the back, 4WD rally car.

    After I ran out of SlotIt pods I decided to design a built-in pod. Then I ran out of guides so decided to design a cut down Sloting plus guide (the only guide I use now).

    These will all need testing, the guides may break, the chassis may need tweaking but when all said and done this is a whole new ballgame for us slotters and I'm loving it.


    IMG_20200424_104418_DRO_2.jpgIMG_20200424_104550_DRO_2.jpgIMG_20200425_225233_DRO_2.jpgIMG_20200510_202446_DRO.jpgIMG_20200510_202539_DRO.jpgCar.jpg image_49555.jpg
    Last edited by Kevan; 05-20-2020, 03:51 AM.

  • #2
    image_49556.jpg


    These are the screwed mounts in the Fly TWR Porsche WSC-95. This is the first chassis I've used screws. The tabs at the ends are superglued to the body which lets the centre section flex when the body rolls.
    Last edited by Kevan; 05-20-2020, 03:52 AM.

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    • #3
      ​Now I'm working on guides with a little help from Alexis concerning print orientation

      Guides.jpg

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      • #4
        Did you design this stuff from scratch?

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        • #5
          Not the bodies but everything else yes although the body was stretched in the slicing program. I bought the body file from Ron Desnoyers where I saw it on Pinshape two years ago.

          I did lots of 2D CAD years ago in my Engineering days so decided to go with Fusion 360 as it's an Autodesk product. A lot of youtubing and learning followed. I use very little of the software actually, it's all about creating the shape you want by using another shape to add or remove from a basic object like a cube or cylinder.
          Last edited by Kevan; 05-20-2020, 05:24 AM.

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          • #6
            Still impressive.
            Last edited by NicoRosberg.; 05-20-2020, 06:05 AM.

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            • #7
              Fusion 360 for design, latest Cura for slicing, Ender 3 Pro for printing.

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              • #8
                Kevan,

                I am using an Ender 3 Pro. Not sure what the differences are between the 3 and the 3 Pro, but I suspect their performance are very close or identical.

                I am using Vectorworks and Cura. Vectorworks is architectural design software that I happen to have a license for. (I am NOT an architect! The story about how I ended up using architectural software is too tangential to relate here.) I export my Vectorworks designs to Cura as STL files.

                I too have been experimenting with printed 1/32nd guides. I've had mixed results printing in PLA. Impact strength is an issue. If the car snaps around hard I've had guides fail. Sections of the flag have broken off, and the mounting post has sheared off.

                One thing I was experimenting with was providing a hole down the center of the mounting post and through the flag, just large enough to press-fit a piece of piano wire. The piano wire is to reinforce the mounting post and the flag against shear/fracture.

                I have also played with a second piece of piano wire in the front, just to reinforce the flag.

                Since the flag is typically about 0.080 inches (2mm) wide, the piano wire has to be smaller than 1/16 inch (1.5mm). There's just not enough 'beef' there for that big a wire. I've tried wire in the 0.40 inch (1mm) range. But it is important to use as large a wire as possible. The stiffness of the wire goes up as the CUBE of the diameter.

                Right now I have suspended my efforts at reinforced guides in the hope there is a better material than PLA for the job. One that will be strong enough on its own. The fact that PLA is almost good enough gives me reason to believe that is possible. I am looking at PETG, ABS and Nylon. I know Nylon will be strong enough, but my printer needs upgrades to use it. I have PETG and ABS on order.

                I have also played with modifying commercial guides, first removing material with my benchtop mill and then bolting on (with 0-80 screws and nuts) features printed in PLA. The highly-stressed features are all the original nylon. While these hybrid guides are likely to work well, a one-piece guide in a strong enough material is a better solution. So for now I am waiting on results from my new materials.

                Ed Bianchi

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                • #9
                  I've printed guides in four different orientations (PLA + all 100% infill + supports to the plate only) - From left to right:

                  1. Nice finish on the bottom edge of the flag and best overall of the four but the mount post snapped off without much force.
                  2. Bottom edge of flag needed a small amount of cleaning with a file, mount post MUCH stronger as the layers lie perpendicular to sideways forces, I couldn't snap this one. Flag may be prone to breaking in a snap-round on a sharp corner. Front of guide looked a bit rough as it's relying on supports.
                  3. Bottom edge of flag was the roughest of the four but probably the strongest all-round print with the print layers tending to oppose shear forces in the two dimensions we race in. Couldn't snap this one. Thinking back now, this was the only one I didn't use supports but used a brim, supports would definitely clean up the bottom of the flag as the printing would have something to print onto.
                  4. Similar to #2 but the front of the guide was the best of the four. Couldn't snap this either. This is how Alexis prints his guides but in PETG.

                  As with everything else in Slot Cars, you have to pick the best compromise and my choice would be #3.

                  Creating 3DP stuff is an Engineering exercise, you have to be constantly aware of your machines and the technologies capabilities.


                  scrnli_20_05_2020_21-35-39.png

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                  • #10
                    A question for you guys.

                    I totally 'get it' when people want to conjure up a new 3D car body that can't be found anywhere else.

                    But what advantage is there in making your own guides, when there are so many good ones available from folks like Avant Slot, Slot.it, Sloting Plus, etc?

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                    • #11
                      Nice. Did you try printing at a higher temp to see if those easily snapped ones can take a little more force?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Wet Coast Racer View Post
                        A question for you guys.

                        I totally 'get it' when people want to conjure up a new 3D car body that can't be found anywhere else.

                        But what advantage is there in making your own guides, when there are so many good ones available from folks like Avant Slot, Slot.it, Sloting Plus, etc?
                        Other than the "because we can" response, the filament is a lot cheaper than a replacement guide, per unit of course. We could get hundreds of guides out of a typical $20 spool of filament.

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                        • #13
                          Ed, the 3 Pro has a flexible magnetic pad and a heated plate. I've only removed the magnetic pad once and couldn't remove it with a bodyshell printed on it so now I always use the scraper after putting a chisel edge on it with an oilstone to help that initial edge lift.

                          I'm still on my first spool of PLA but other materials will need trialing, PETG is one, maybe try a PLA hybrid or even a fibrous filament. My printer is still basically stock so would probably need to upgrade the feeder to hot-end some time in the future.

                          Steel reinforcing is something I always intended doing even 12 months ago before I got my printer and all my chassis have an old axle or 3/32 piano wire as the centre pivot which also adds tremendous longitudal stiffness.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
                            Nice. Did you try printing at a higher temp to see if those easily snapped ones can take a little more force?
                            I did raise temps from 205 to 210 but didn't reprint the horizontal one again as it's a waste of time.

                            Wet Coast Racer - I'd rather design my own guides shaped to how I modify guides anyway and just have the satisfaction of doing it and having the ability to make as many as I want, some longer, some deeper but all from scratch like a scratchbuilder would prefer.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Wet Coast Racer View Post
                              A question for you guys.

                              I totally 'get it' when people want to conjure up a new 3D car body that can't be found anywhere else.

                              But what advantage is there in making your own guides, when there are so many good ones available from folks like Avant Slot, Slot.it, Sloting Plus, etc?
                              My reason for printing my own guides:we race exclusively on Ninco track.We (members of the club)have found that the Slot.it protruding guide performs better when blade thickness is reduced to 1.1-1.2 mm and when given this shape. guide.jpg
                              But it needs a lot of filing so i print my guides to save me some work

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