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Nylon compared to PETG and PLA

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  • #16
    I bought an Elegoo curing unit at the same time as the printer, the #1 advantage it has over the sun is I can cure after sunset, the #2 advantage is the 405nm light is consistent (although I've got nothing to measure this so they could be telling porkies), the #3 advantage is I can time it to the second and the #4 advantage is the lack of undesirable other kinds of UV.

    ...there are of course disadvantages

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    • #17
      I have a Prusa SL1. Honeslty I used my FDM printer much more.

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      • #18
        Yeah, that's why I bought from a friend who had upgraded. It's been solid for him, plus I got the spare screen and other stuff he had bought for it that can't be used on his new one. I thought about the SL1 because I'm a big fan of Prusa, but just didn't think it warranted the investment just yet. I expect most of what I print will be minis, such as D&D figs for my son, and spectators for my track, or friend's. Maybe a few other things. But hey, you never know. ;-)

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        • #19
          First slot car part in nylon, much more flexible than pla, should be unbreakable! Screenshot_20200914-130127.png

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          • #20
            Kevan,

            I am following your adventures in Nylon with much interest. I have yet to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro with the all-metal hot end I bought several months ago. Wunna these days I'll get off my duff and do it. It will be interesting to compare Nylon parts to parts printed in PETG.

            Right now PETG is my go-to material for anything requiring mechanical strength. It is far tougher than PLA and able to stand up to environments that will degrade PLA. (It is that very environmental resistance that makes all those PET plastic water and soda bottles such persistent environmental waste!)

            It isn't expensive. MatterHackers have lots of PETG 1 kilogram reels for US$25. And it is easy to print on low-end 3D printers. No more trouble than PLA.

            Have you even tried PETG yet? I don't remember you mentioning it. If you haven't you really ought to give it a try.

            Ed Bianchi

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            • #21
              I haven't Ed, but I should do. It has quickly become apparent that nylon supports are going to be a pig to remove!..and may not be the ideal filament for our needs. Guides may well be something to experiment with as nylon is my preferred guide material and I happen to have a couple of guides designed already.
              I'll have to try a bodyshell next but getting the supports out may turn me right off this m​​​​aterial.

              I do really like my new printer though and store the filament in a tin with packs of silica beads.

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              • #22
                Get color indicating silica beads so you can see when they need changing and recharging. Dry filament is always good, but it's essential for nylon. Yours might not even be properly dry right now. Since it WILL absorb moisture even if you try to prevent it, start looking for a dehydrator. I use a cheap thing I got from a thrift store for drying fruit/meat thought convection from a heater element in the base. It works, though not especially quickly. Something with it's own convection fan, with adjustable temperature and timing would be ideal. You'll want to leave the spool in there over night, prior to printing with it, if not longer.

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                • #23
                  Thinking about Ed's comment I started looking at other alternatives and like the idea of CF-PETG which is much less hygroscopic than Nylon. My printer has an all metal hot end with hardened nozzle so CF infused filaments are possible.
                  As you say Greg, a filament dryer is a good idea - period.

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                  • #24
                    I have been using a PrintDry brand filament dryer for all of my printing. The cost of the unit is heavy, and a lot of people have complained that is simply a repurposed fruit dryer, but it does have the temperature control and fan that Mr. Flippant pines for. It also has a carousel for the reel of filament and a port to feed the filament through. The full suite of features makes the unit a worthwhile purchase.

                    The dryer comes with a few extras I have little need for. There is a way to stack a second reel of filament, which I can't use because I only have one printer and it has only one print head. And it comes with a Tupperware-like filament reel container with a vacuum port. A syringe-like vacuum pump comes with. It works, kinda, but I'm not impressed. I have my doubts the amount of vacuum you can pull is significant or very useful. I've found a shop-vac can pull a vacuum on the container, and probably works as well or better than the hand pump.

                    I have also bought a couple of quarts of indicating desiccant beads to help keep the filament dry during storage. I've bought fabric draw-string bags, which hold a couple of ounces of the beads. A pair of bead-filled bags can ride on top of the filament reel inside the dryer while I'm printing. That seems to keep the beads activated. When I've finished printing the filament reel and the desiccant bags go into a one-gallon size freezer storage bag. They're all a snug fit, but I can seal the bag, and it seems to be adequately moisture-proof enough for long-term storage.

                    I think my homemade desiccant bags must be a lot more effective than the tiny packets you usually find desiccant packed in. Those drawstring bags, FYI, came from McMaster-Carr.

                    I have been running the dryer at 45C. That seems to work.

                    I have not yet used the dryer on Nylon, which is famously hydroscopic. That will be the acid test. I suspect that if you start with dry Nylon filament, the PrintDry dryer will keep it dry. Will it be able to dry out soggy Nylon? TBD.

                    Ed Bianchi

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                    • #25
                      Yes, it should have no problem drying it out, though it's hard to say how long to keep it in there prior to printing, a day or two isn't a bad idea. Yeah, the Print Dry is a bit overpriced for what it really is. My dryer is about the cheapest POS you can find, but I love being frugal, and it works, so. ;-)
                      I also got the fabric drawstring bags for the silica gel beads and use gallon ziploc bags to store filament in. There are a few brands that the spools are a hair too large for them, but most fit just fine. These all go on a rack made from printed brackets and 1x2 lumber.

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                      • #26
                        Mr. Flippant,

                        Love the meta!

                        Printing parts in aid of printing parts.

                        Stand by for the singularity, when robots build robots, and AI designs better AI!

                        Ed Bianchi

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                        • #27
                          One day 3D printers will be able to clone themselves...we are at the forefront of our own destruction!

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                          • #28
                            The whole RepRap movement that has begotten the consumer printers of today was based on the premise of the machine being able to print the parts needed to build another (better) machine. Prusa printers still use a lot of printed parts, and they are constantly going though improvements making injection molding pointless.

                            But, this is an interesting project. It's a mostly printed 3D printer. Even the linear rails and linear bearings are printed!

                            https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3432384

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