No announcement yet.

Removing a Stubborn Finished Print

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Removing a Stubborn Finished Print

    I have found that a light sideways tap with an assembly hammer can easily pop off a printed part that stubbornly refuses to separate from the printer base any other way. FYI I do all my printing on a glass base plate.

    It is a good idea to hold onto the printer base while doing this, to minimize shock to the carriage.

    On parts that don't offer a good surface to tap on, a putty knife or screwdriver can be used as a 'drift'. Set the end of the tool against a usable surface and tap the other end with the hammer.

    Notice I say 'tap', not 'pound'. And try to keep the blow horizontal. You'll be surprised how easily this releases parts that won't give up any other way.

    Ed Bianchi

  • #2
    Good tips. Hopefully more printers adopt the flexible build surface concept. My first printer was a Prusa Mk3 with the flex steel sheet with PEI surface. I've been spoiled in that I just remove the sheet with the print on it, flex it, and it pops off. No tools required. I knew it was a good thing before I bought it, but every time I see people using sharp tools to remove a print, I'm glad I made that choice. I know there are upgrade kits to put similar beds on a variety of printers out there. I can't recommend getting one strongly enough. It's possibly the best thing you can have on any FDM printer.


    • #3

      Interesting. I purchased a glass build plate for my Ender 3 Pro when I bought my machine. That machine comes with a magnetic build sheet standard. The glass build plate cost something like US$10 or US$12, and it sounded like a sensible upgrade, so I bit. Glass is very hard and can be very flat. Two qualities I thought were desirable.

      I have never printed on the magnetic sheet that came with the machine. Now I guess I should try using it. Removing stubborn prints has been an issue, off and on. At least in theory the flex in the magnetic sheet should make that easy.

      On the other hand, I wonder if the quality of my prints might suffer. I can't imagine the magnetic sheet can be as flat as the glass. The question is, will that matter?

      Some of the parts I print are quite large -- about on the limit of what will fit on the build plate. Others are quite tiny. I need to print and compare.

      Seems like every part I make comes with a new lesson in 3D printing.

      Thanks for your post!

      Ed Bianchi


      • #4
        That's where mesh bed leveling comes in handy. Prusa machines have come with inductive sensing to map out the bed, and it will raise and lower the nozzle as it prints. It's nothing you can see with the naked eye, but the printer compensates for it to ensure that the first layers are perfect. If the bed it came with is not flat, and the machine does not have mesh bed leveling to compensate, then yes, your first layer will be inconsistent and might never be able to be perfect. There are upgrades you can do to add that sensing, such as BL Touch. The latest Creality CR-6 or whatever it's called, has a unique bed sensing technology where it actually touches the nozzle TO the bed itself. I think this is a great way to do it, but it has its own drawbacks, such as not being convertible to a direct drive extruder.

        Anyway, use what works, but if you never even tried the magnetic bed, by all means, try it. If you're looking at upgrades in the future, a sensor for mesh bed leveling is a great one to consider. Then you can make the magnetic bed works as intended, even if it's not perfectly flat like the glass usually is.