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  • #31
    Thanks Rokon. I'm ok then, because I left that on the cord when I cut it.
    Randy

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    • #32
      OK thanks to Carlos and his explanation has cleared things up. So I was running my power supply at 19.50V to get the full 18 V at the rails. Running for approx 5 minutes 5 1/24 cars were pulling about 2.65 amps. The power supply would temporarily quit for about 15 seconds or so and then start up again. I just backed off the voltage to 18.3 volts and had no issue so far. I will keep running this way and see what happens. It is a 30V 10 amp 300W unit by Longwei

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      • #33
        Glad it worked out for you!!!

        One thing to keep in mind is the voltage a multimeter reads at the rails is not the actual voltage. The meters read the voltage lower than actual voltage because of how the signal is sent from the CU to the chip. You can trust the voltage at the rails to be within a/10th of a volt of what your PSU says.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by carlosinseattle View Post
          Glad it worked out for you!!!

          One thing to keep in mind is the voltage a multimeter reads at the rails is not the actual voltage. The meters read the voltage lower than actual voltage because of how the signal is sent from the CU to the chip. You can trust the voltage at the rails to be within a/10th of a volt of what your PSU says.
          That isn't actually true, Carlos. While reading a PWM signal with a multi-meter isn't 100% accurate, what's read on the rails is fairly close to the actual performance. The CU *does* drop the voltage a bit. Maybe not quite as much as the ~1-1/2v typically measured.
          Last edited by b.yingling; 01-13-2021, 06:40 AM.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by b.yingling View Post

            That isn't actually true, Carlos. While reading a PWM signal with a multi-meter isn't 100% accurate, what's read on the rails is fairly close to the actual performance. The CU *does* drop the voltage a bit. Maybe not quite as much as the ~1-1/2v typically measured.
            Not sure what you mean, but to me it sounds like we're saying the same thing. When using an oscilloscope on the rails you see the real voltage hasn't dropped by 1.2 volts like what you see when comparing the voltage readings on the PSU and the rails with a basic multimeter.

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            • #36
              Well that was short lived. It just quit with one car by it self. Its pulling about .75 amps in total. It reads .3 with the track turned on and it read about .75 with one car and it quit about 1 minute in the run. As a recap I am using the original track connector that came with the original power pack. I put a 5 amp in-line fuse. Is there something im doing wrong or is this transformer to weak?

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              • #37
                Sounds like you may well have a bum power supply. Maybe try testing the PS with a different load. A conventional auto headlight would give a good load.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by carlosinseattle View Post

                  Not sure what you mean, but to me it sounds like we're saying the same thing. When using an oscilloscope on the rails you see the real voltage hasn't dropped by 1.2 volts like what you see when comparing the voltage readings on the PSU and the rails with a basic multimeter.
                  Sort of. While the oscilloscope may give you a reading closer to the original voltage from the PS, if you tach a slot car motor connected to a D132 chip being fed from the rails of a track the performance of the motor is going to closely parallel the multimeter reading from the rails.

                  So while the 'true voltage' may be close to the PS reading, the useful voltage is pretty close to the multimeter reading.

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                  • #39
                    You're right. I was thinking about it for CU and accessory protection, so that guys don't turn their PSU way up thinking there is a bunch of voltage drop.

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                    • #40
                      Hey guys. I ended up returning the Longwei Power supply 30V 10A. I replaced with another brand UNIROI 0-32V / 0-10.2A. I am still having the same issue. I have the constant Voltage set at 18V the amperage is set to Max. Its drawing between 2.65 and 2.88 amps with 5 1/24 cars. After 5 minutes of racing the power track starts beeping, lights flashing and the system stops for about 10 seconds then starts up again. I have an in-line fuse with 5 amp fuse. Could this be the issue? Could it be the power track? is This is frustrating. Anybody have this issue

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                      • #41
                        Hi Nat, sorry but you probably can't get away with using one of these flimsy/cheap power supplies. See if you can find a used Korad or Mastech power supply out there. Both are sold under other names but they are of generally better quality. Just by looking at the picture of the transformer on Amazon it doesn't look like it can "honestly" supply 300 watts. It has some large capacitors but the problem you're describing sounds like what happens when the energy has discharged from the capacitors.

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                        • #42
                          Except he is only drawing 52 watts...

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                          • #43
                            Your descriptions of problems are confusing. First it was the cars would slow down, continuing to run for awhile and then stop with the CU beeping and flashing. Then you said the power supply was shutting down. Then it was one car for a minute and it would quit. Now five cars after 5 minutes ,stops and the CU beeps and flashes (with new supply).
                            Any chance of problems with track jumpers? Is the CU power connection the same stock plug and wire to the new supply? (No wonky splices).
                            Could be you have a flakey CU.

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                            • #44
                              One more thing. Your fuse hookup. Is it a good tight holder fit? Or is it a spade type auto fuse? For kicks you could put an ohm meter across your fuse assembly to look for high impedance.
                              Have you ever put some eyes solely on the power supply readouts to watch for weirdness while all the cars are racing?

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