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  • Freekyzilla
    replied
    I love it!!! How perfect. My son is all over it. He's more interested in building the scenery than the track. Having the buildings directly abbuting the track, makes it so much more interesting. Also, the imperfect geometry of the buildings will make our mistakes look like design choices.

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    I was thinking the same thing, Paul.

    The Targa Florio is a classic open road sports car race through Sicily, ended around 1975. No guard rails, right past front doors in little towns. It looks crazier than the Isle of Man TT motorcycle race, and the scenery is jaw dropping. If he's never seen this, it will blow his mind.

    https://www.messynessychic.com/2016/...that-ever-was/

    Last edited by thatguy01; 09-13-2021, 03:49 PM.

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  • Wet Coast Racer
    replied
    Originally posted by Freekyzilla View Post
    My son wants to do an Italian village/countryside theme.
    You'll probably find some inspiration for that in Luf's old Targa track thread, here.

    Leave a comment:


  • 32lbKING
    replied
    Originally posted by thatguy01 View Post
    Don't know how well this will race, but it looks cool and I think you have the parts. You may not have enough straights.

    Will probably race better with the cars beginning the long straight from the long R4 curve instead of racing into the long R4 curve and slowing for the following hairpin. Layout could be mirror flipped if you want the cars running down the long straight in a particular direction.

    Clearance on the overpass may be tight unless the elevation is cheated somewhere. 1/24 cars would be very tight.




    14x6 overpass 4.gif




    All of these designs for the available space are great. I REALLY like this last one though. Thatguy, you are the king of well thought out track design.
    The addition of the R4 curve makes this a fast track.
    I can see 3 areas that would work for a pitlane [any of the straights that are at least 4 straights long].
    And if mirror flipped L to R, it leaves an option for a curved lane changer going into the R4 curve. Also, as Thatguy alluded to, the R4 gives the ability to build up speed on the curve heading into the long straight [effectively making the straight feel longer than it is, and gives enough time to look up at the monitor for a second without crashing]. To me, this one looks like a whole lotta fun
    Randy
    Last edited by 32lbKING; 09-29-2021, 01:13 PM. Reason: incorrect spelling

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  • Freekyzilla
    replied
    I'm almost done the table. Will be adding the facia, 'grass' and bolting it together this evening. Will experiment with all your ideas and report back. Once we settle for a design, we'll think of a theme. My son wants to do an Italian village/countryside them. Oh and I have to mount a TV somewhere for the AppConnect. Fun times!
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 1 photos.

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    Don't know how well this will race, but it looks cool and I think you have the parts. You may not have enough straights.

    Will probably race better with the cars beginning the long straight from the long R4 curve instead of racing into the long R4 curve and slowing for the following hairpin. Layout could be mirror flipped if you want the cars running down the long straight in a particular direction.

    Clearance on the overpass may be tight unless the elevation is cheated somewhere. 1/24 cars would be very tight.




    14x6 overpass 4.gif





    Attached Files

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    With the number of track pieces in these layouts, you should install two sets of jumper wires directly from the track piece where the power supply connects to the track. The two sets of wires should be connected to points left and right from the power supply about a third of the way around. The middle third will be between the two remote connection points.

    Jumper wires connect from a track piece (usually near the transformer connection section) directly to a remote point on the track without going through the many track joints. When track power goes through a joint (esp the press fit joints of sectional track) there is a power loss (voltage drop). A wire connection directly to a remote point on the track eliminates the power loss of the joints to that point. Technically, the most voltage drop now is about halfway between each of the jumper points, and is much less than the maximum voltage drop of an unjumpered track.

    You can buy premade jumper wires with metal tips, or just use plain stranded wire like paired speaker wire and strip a couple of inches of insulation from the ends to make good contact inside the rails. There are big spaces under the track where you can stuff jumper wires into the rails, and maybe secure the wire in place with tape or hot glue. With a digital track you only need to be careful about connecting the same rail with the wire (positive to positive, negative to negative) instead of worrying about also connecting to a specific lane. With a non digital track, each wire must be connected to a specific lane at both ends, and must be connected negative to negative or positive to positive. With a non digital track each set of connections should be four wires: Lane 1 pos, Lane 1 neg, Lane 2 pos, Lane 2 neg.

    For easier maintenance I would connect the jumper to the plain track piece adjacent to the switch or the transformer connection. You're unlikely to ever need to repair/replace a piece of plain track, and a difference of one track piece in either direction won't matter much.
    Last edited by thatguy01; 09-07-2021, 01:50 AM.

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    Cool!

    The overpass layouts are the same length in both lanes. The only way to get both lanes the same length is to have one loop from the crossover run clockwise and the other loop counter clockwise. If both loops are clockwise or counterclockwise, it's more uneven than a flat track.

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  • Freekyzilla
    replied
    thayguy01 - you are awesome! Thanks very much. My son and I are building 4 - 3.5' x 6' tables for or 6 x 14 ft layout and will use your designs. I'll post more pictures ASAP.
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 1 photos.

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    A couple of 14x6 overpass layouts that use the bridge pieces (UE2). Use one box or less of R2 R3 and R4 plus one or two 1/4 and 1/3 straights.

    You can shorten or save straights from the longer layout removing either the two parallel straight pieces from the little loop or removing one straight piece from all four parallel straights.

    14x6 overpass 1.gif



    14x6 overpass 3.gif
    Last edited by thatguy01; 09-06-2021, 06:21 PM.

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    This is 6x14. It uses 6pcs R2 (1 box), 6pcs R3 (1 box), 12pcs R4 (1 box), a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights.

    This is designed and oriented to operate as a digital layout with a pit lane. Special digital track sensor pieces (pit in, lane changer, scoring, etc) should be preceded by a full straight so the car can straighten out before it passes over the sensor. AFAIK, the standard Carrera Digital pit in is only available as a "right hand" entrance (a NASCAR oval uses a "left hand" entrance). Without the pit lane, this could be oriented with the long straight on the "back" and the short straight and control center on the "front", or the layout could be mirror reversed left/right.

    If your set has the vertically curved bridge sections, avoid directly preceding/following the bridge section with a curve. The cars need at least a short straight to get level before a curve.

    If you need to use the bridge pieces to have enough length, it's fine to put the long straight on the "back" and make a hump from the bridge pieces. Also, the bridge pieces in the Cuda Camaro set each = 1.5 standard straights (3 standard straights when used together), which can be a useful design tool.

    If you put the scoring line on a short straight, avoid putting it in a braking area. That creates an incentive to hold the throttle down across the scoring line and run off the next curve to record a fast lap or win a race. (Actually, always avoid putting it in a braking area.)


    14x6.gif
    Attached Files
    Last edited by thatguy01; 08-31-2021, 11:25 PM.

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  • Freekyzilla
    replied
    Originally posted by thatguy01 View Post
    The R4 curve package is an excellent addon to a standard race set. You can use it to make 90 degree corners with a single R1/60 piece from a track set. Add a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights to make creative designs line up, and you have a powerful set of tools.

    The R1 banked curves can be a problem for low-bottom race cars with long overhangs. The front/rear end of the car makes contact with the road and the tires/guide are lifted off the road.
    Hey thatguy01. I saw your (gulp) 5 year old post on track design and decided that was an awesome 6x14 layout - thank you! Only issue I'm having is that I just need a single 1/4 straight but my local AD's dont have a set, and the sellers that do are charging proportionally high shipping costs vs value of the item. So, still on the hunt for that piece - unless you can do your magic again and redesign so I don't need it? Seems silly I know.

    Attached Files

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  • thatguy01
    replied
    The R4 curve package is an excellent addon to a standard race set. You can use it to make 90 degree corners with a single R1/60 piece from a track set. Add a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights to make creative designs line up, and you have a powerful set of tools.

    The R1 banked curves can be a problem for low-bottom race cars with long overhangs. The front/rear end of the car makes contact with the road and the tires/guide are lifted off the road.
    Last edited by thatguy01; 08-30-2021, 10:01 PM.

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  • 32lbKING
    replied
    Originally posted by Freekyzilla View Post
    The Evolution set I am picking up tomorrow has 30 feet of track. Its over a decade old, so details are sparse but from the photos, it appears to have some R2's and R3's...?
    https://swaseys.com/products/1-32-sc...20801931051067
    If the cars in that set are in good shape, they are worth a little more now than what you paid for the set, so you got a good deal
    Randy

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  • Freekyzilla
    replied
    My bad! Makes total sense.

    Leave a comment:

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