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Newbie from Vancouver BC

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  • Newbie from Vancouver BC

    Hi All,

    I've been lurking for a couple weeks here on the forums before finally taking the plunge and buying a GT Face-off set (Digital 132 20030012 GT Face Off) off Amazon.ca. Why now? Well, 5 years ago, my son, now 12, received a Carrera Go!! set from his uncle for Xmas. Full disclosure - I suggested that my bro-in-law get the kit for my son but it was really an excuse to re-live the experience I had with Tyco sets back in the 80's - glow in the dark HO sets with loops etc...!

    Well, of course I had more interest in the set than my son did and after a while, the set became neglected. BUT now, my son is crazy about cars and asked me to set up the old track. That lead to "we need better and BIGGER" and I had an Amazon gift card, so my wife could not protest.

    We put together the set last night and immediately realized a few things:

    1. The Ford GT #66 does not handle nearly as well as the Porsche 911. Any recommendations on a good handling replacement?

    2. We need more track. I think it would be more economical to purchase some used Evolution track? I found a couple complete sets on FB Marketplace.

    3. We need the wireless controllers. Its ridiculous how short the wires are. None available on Amazon.CA, so I'm on the hunt for a CDN dealer with stock.

    4. I have to get the track off the ground. Jumping over it to get cars slotted again is a total PITA. I will post a photo of the room but I am thinking of a table size of 6x14 is in the cards.

    5.i love the idea of SmartRace! I have a 55" TV i could mount on the wall, so am on the hunt for the Carrera 30369 Bluetooth AppConnect and pit lane.

    Any other suggestions? I've attached some photos of the space as well.

    Thanks for all the great indirect advice already through your help with users like Frogman, BigT and others.
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    This gallery has 2 photos.

  • #2
    Welcome back to the hobby.

    Time to start learning basic car tuning tips. In this case, "blueprinting" is where most of your time will need to be spent. Things like proper lubrication, and tire prep. For your Ford GT, it may just need the tires to be lightly sanded to get better traction. Once both cars are taken care of, they may be more equal. Then again, some cars are just better than others due to things as fundamental as the shape of the car and where the center of gravity is, even when traction magnets are being used. Until the tires are hooking up properly, though, it can be hard to know.

    Evolution track and sets are a good way to add track stock. Be careful about too many sets, though. A track with nothing but standard (R1) turns gets boring fast. Get some R2, R3, and R4 turns, as well as third and quarter straights to help fill the gaps.

    6x14 is a good size table.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you for the advice. Much appreciated! I'll definitely try sanding the tires and I've got plenty of lube from my nitro RC days.

      The Evolution set I am picking up tomorrow has 30 feet of track.its over a decade old, so details are sparse but from the photos, it appears to have some R2's and R3's...?

      https://swaseys.com/products/1-32-sc...20801931051067


      Comment


      • #4
        I'm not 100% sure, but I don't see any turns that look like a larger radius than the standard R1 turns most sets have. Some of them look like 30 degree, rather than 60 degree pieces, which would be necessary to make a "rectangle" type layout, or 90 degree corners.

        Don't get me wrong, it still will work fine, and be a low cost way to expand your layout. After that set, though, I'd avoid sets unless you desperately want the cars that come with it, and no one is selling just the cars.

        Comment


        • #5
          Welcome! I'm relatively new here myself, but I can tell you this is a great place to be. I just want to mention that I do have the #66 Ford GT, as well as 2 other similar Ford GTs. I had an issue with all three of them, where they couldn't handle a lane change, even at slower speeds, without jumping out of the slot. I don't have this issue at all with any other cars. I'm not sure if this is your issue, but I purchased Frankenslot guide keels for all three of them, and the problem was instantly solved.

          Dennis

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          • #6
            Greg is right. That set only has R1 turns [standard 1/60's and the 30 degree turns are 1/30 banked]. If you think you might want to try D/124, those sets will contain some 2/30 curves with borders [maybe 3/30's in some, not positive on that though]. Both 1/24 and 1/32 use the exact same track.
            I started out with 2 sets years ago and later bought a third American Way set for $100.
            Unless the set is an exceptional deal I would stop at 2 sets, and then start buying larger curves and more straights if your space will allow. The cars in the set you pictured are cool
            Oh yeah, almost forgot... Do Not have BOTH the digital CU and the analog power track in your layout at the same time. It WILL damage one of them as the electronics are different. You can use either one in your layout, just be sure you swap one for the other so that only one is in the layout.
            Randy

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks guys! I have been spending considerable time studying the informative sticky post "Question about Curves" and am starting to understand the different curve radii. I purchased the used set last night: link here for $80. Another set on my radar is this one which I found locally, but I'm having second thoughts about grabbing that one too, and instead searching for R2, R3, and R4 turns due to the feedback here. I'm going to inventory all the sections into a track planner and see what we can come up and what we need. Unless the seller of the second set is willing to go much lower than asking price, I'll hold off as that would be set #3 for me, including the digital GT Face Off.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey there, fellow left coaster. It's easy to scan through the SCI Rules, and not notice this:

                • You cannot post any affiliate or referral links, or post anything asking for a referral. Such posts will be subject to removal.
                • No off-site linking, if you would like that content to be shared, it can be added to the article section here on SCI.
                Nothing wrong with naming Carrera sets or sites or whatever, but please no links on SCI.

                Comment


                • #9
                  My bad! Makes total sense.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Freekyzilla View Post
                    The Evolution set I am picking up tomorrow has 30 feet of track. Its over a decade old, so details are sparse but from the photos, it appears to have some R2's and R3's...?
                    https://swaseys.com/products/1-32-sc...20801931051067
                    If the cars in that set are in good shape, they are worth a little more now than what you paid for the set, so you got a good deal
                    Randy

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The R4 curve package is an excellent addon to a standard race set. You can use it to make 90 degree corners with a single R1/60 piece from a track set. Add a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights to make creative designs line up, and you have a powerful set of tools.

                      The R1 banked curves can be a problem for low-bottom race cars with long overhangs. The front/rear end of the car makes contact with the road and the tires/guide are lifted off the road.
                      Last edited by thatguy01; 08-30-2021, 10:01 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by thatguy01 View Post
                        The R4 curve package is an excellent addon to a standard race set. You can use it to make 90 degree corners with a single R1/60 piece from a track set. Add a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights to make creative designs line up, and you have a powerful set of tools.

                        The R1 banked curves can be a problem for low-bottom race cars with long overhangs. The front/rear end of the car makes contact with the road and the tires/guide are lifted off the road.
                        Hey thatguy01. I saw your (gulp) 5 year old post on track design and decided that was an awesome 6x14 layout - thank you! Only issue I'm having is that I just need a single 1/4 straight but my local AD's dont have a set, and the sellers that do are charging proportionally high shipping costs vs value of the item. So, still on the hunt for that piece - unless you can do your magic again and redesign so I don't need it? Seems silly I know.

                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          This is 6x14. It uses 6pcs R2 (1 box), 6pcs R3 (1 box), 12pcs R4 (1 box), a pair of 1/4 straights and a pair of 1/3 straights.

                          This is designed and oriented to operate as a digital layout with a pit lane. Special digital track sensor pieces (pit in, lane changer, scoring, etc) should be preceded by a full straight so the car can straighten out before it passes over the sensor. AFAIK, the standard Carrera Digital pit in is only available as a "right hand" entrance (a NASCAR oval uses a "left hand" entrance). Without the pit lane, this could be oriented with the long straight on the "back" and the short straight and control center on the "front", or the layout could be mirror reversed left/right.

                          If your set has the vertically curved bridge sections, avoid directly preceding/following the bridge section with a curve. The cars need at least a short straight to get level before a curve.

                          If you need to use the bridge pieces to have enough length, it's fine to put the long straight on the "back" and make a hump from the bridge pieces. Also, the bridge pieces in the Cuda Camaro set each = 1.5 standard straights (3 standard straights when used together), which can be a useful design tool.

                          If you put the scoring line on a short straight, avoid putting it in a braking area. That creates an incentive to hold the throttle down across the scoring line and run off the next curve to record a fast lap or win a race. (Actually, always avoid putting it in a braking area.)


                          14x6.gif
                          Attached Files
                          Last edited by thatguy01; 08-31-2021, 11:25 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A couple of 14x6 overpass layouts that use the bridge pieces (UE2). Use one box or less of R2 R3 and R4 plus one or two 1/4 and 1/3 straights.

                            You can shorten or save straights from the longer layout removing either the two parallel straight pieces from the little loop or removing one straight piece from all four parallel straights.

                            14x6 overpass 1.gif



                            14x6 overpass 3.gif
                            Last edited by thatguy01; 09-06-2021, 06:21 PM.

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                            • #15
                              thayguy01 - you are awesome! Thanks very much. My son and I are building 4 - 3.5' x 6' tables for or 6 x 14 ft layout and will use your designs. I'll post more pictures ASAP.
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