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Issue with non-working SCP2 Controller

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  • chenglaw
    International Racer
    • Feb 2008
    • 580

    Issue with non-working SCP2 Controller

    I bought a new SCP2 fitted with a SCP201bc Universal Cartridge and can't seem to get it to work at all. I race on a track operating in analogue Negative Polarity mode. I have configured the cartridge for Negative Polarity by removing the jumper on J1 as per the manual's instructions. I have also set up the controller by following the instructions in “QUICK START common section” of the manual.

    1) I plug in the controller (fitted with an XLR plug) and the Max Diagnostic LED lights up Green which seems to indicate that everything is correctly wired up.
    2) I squeeze the throttle and at 1/3, the LC/SS ON Green light comes on and the MAX Diagnostic LED light turns half Green/Red and there's a humming sound from the PSU (12v – 6 amps, Unregulated).
    3) Going on to full throttle, the MAX Diagnostic LED turns to a Blinking (every 1 second) RED light and the LC/SS ON light goes off. And the humming sound from the PSU stops.
    4) During all this time, the car on the track does not move at all!
    5) I pulled out the SCP2 and plugged in a PM (Negative Polarity) controller and everything works fine! Car moves through the full range of throttle control, brakes, slows, no problems.
    6) The label on the packaging says the Controller is a SCP201AI Universal Controller which, I believe, uses the same SCP201bc cartridge.

    Has anyone encountered a similar problem? Or can anyone tell me just what is wrong? Any and all help will be much appreciated.
    Last edited by chenglaw; 06-16-2018, 08:56 PM.
  • chenglaw
    International Racer
    • Feb 2008
    • 580

    #2
    Hmmm, looks like no one seems able to offer any assistance. I have tried again by making some wiring changes to ensure that they comply with Slot.it's instructions for positive polarity track in their manual.

    Now, with the track power turned on, when I plug in the controller, there is no light at all on the controller, but when I put a car on the track, the LED in LC/SS On is flickering Green and the LED in Max/Diagnostic is flickering Green with a bit of Red in the background. The car's motor is also running at full speed without the trigger being squeezed. It is getting really weird and I am still no nearer to a solution. Can't return the controller as I have chopped off the original banana plugs to fit the XLR plug, so I'm stuck. Have also written directly to [email protected] in the hope of getting some useful response.

    Comment

    • chenglaw
      International Racer
      • Feb 2008
      • 580

      #3
      It's been more than a week now and no joy at all from Slot.it, which is rather strange as I thought they were quite on the ball with their user support. Using various "stick it and test" methods, I have come to the conclusion that it's an issue with the SCP201bc cartridge and not the controller. So it looks like I will have to get a replacement cartridge - or not!

      Comment

      • RichD
        World Champion
        • Oct 2005
        • 13851

        #4
        Are you sure that the XLR plug is wired correctly? I think it goes 1 = Black, 2 = Yellow and 3 = Red.
        Make sure that nothing is shorted.
        This is how a track is wired for negative polarity.



        Black would go to the wiper arm of a regular controller and the left track rail looking in the direction of travel, white (yellow) goes to the power supply minus and red goes to the power supply plus and the right hand track rail looking in the direction of travel.

        Comment

        • chenglaw
          International Racer
          • Feb 2008
          • 580

          #5
          Thanks, Rich. Yes, I did use the wiring schematic which you have posted to wire up my controller and track for Negative Polarity plus I also set up a Positive Polarity PB and tested the SCP2 in its supplied Positive Polarity mode as well (i.e. with the jumper at J1 connected). I even checked with the wiring diagram downloaded from the Slot.it website. I got the controller to the point where, when I plugged it in, turned the power on, the motor started running at full throttle even without me touching the trigger control. Thinking I may have a reversed connection, I then switched the wires for Power+ and Power-. When I turned the power back on, the fast fuse in the cartridge promptly blew! I have now replaced the fuse and reverted back to the earlier wiring config for Positive Polarity. And this is where I am, right now. Any ideas? I am no electronics whiz and can only work on simple logic.
          Last edited by chenglaw; 07-08-2018, 09:34 AM.

          Comment

          • RichD
            World Champion
            • Oct 2005
            • 13851

            #6
            There are three possibilities here. First there could be something wrong with your controller. Second there could be something wrong with your track wiring. Third there could be something wrong with both. If you have a regular resistor controller handy you should hook that up. Make sure that the brakes are working. Disconnect the brake wire and see if the braking distance increases to be sure that the brake circuit is wired correctly. With no controller connected you should read full track voltage between the red and white controller connections. If the track is wired correctly then the problem must be with the controller.

            Comment

            • chenglaw
              International Racer
              • Feb 2008
              • 580

              #7
              Thanks again, Rich. I have done as you suggested and also took it one step further - I got hold of a new SCP201bc cartridge to make a comparison check against the problem one. The result - I found 2 issues which were the source of the problems I was having. 1) The wiring connections in my PB had 2 pins incorrectly connected (my mistake as I had the wrong orientation looking at Male and Female connectors, so the wires got interposed). 2) As a result of the cartridge comparison, I discovered that my cartridge was missing a Jumper Connector which I would not have noticed if I didn't have the second cartridge to check with. This jumper connector should have been installed at the factory, but for some reason, was not!

              Anyway, to cut a long story short. all issues have been resolved and the SCP2 is now working the way it should. For this, I must thank you for the helpful suggestions and advice which made the resolution possible and I really appreciate the help from members like you on this forum. I was, however, rather disappointed by the total lack of response from Slot.it, both on here and the non-reply to my email to them. Maybe they felt that if I had messed up, then it's my mess, not theirs!

              Comment

              • SlotsNZ
                Championship Contender
                • Nov 2006
                • 2584

                #8
                Just a thought for the future for everyone

                When wiring a new controller, if you are not entirely familiar with the pin setup, orientation (front to rear) or anything else; I wire only the power in/out, leaving the "brake" wire unconnected. That way, if I have for instance the power and track button the wrong way around, the car/track just gets full power and I can swap them
                If I have made another error, I may pop a fuse in the power supply, but it is unlikely I will cook the controller.

                Comment

                • chenglaw
                  International Racer
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 580

                  #9
                  Hi Mark, thanks for the advice. I'm normally OK with wiring up controllers but I guess age is catching up with me when I make simple errors like the orientation of the pin positions. Usually when I make a mistake like that, I cotton on pretty fast after a detailed check of my work, but for some reason, the obvious escaped me this time!

                  Lim

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