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All my cars are broken... Need some help with the Slotit 962s first.

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  • All my cars are broken... Need some help with the Slotit 962s first.

    I have four 962s out there. The oldest is the old Kenwood with a very different chassis and it does not get used much. The other cars are the Rothmans, Coca Cola and Copenhagen 962s. One of them the chassis is busted around the guide flag. Overall these cars run the best on my layout of any I've tried. But they do sit low for the Ninco track and drag a bit. Would it be worth it to figure out a tire that is very slightly larger to give it some clearance? What's the best source for SlotIt parts at this point? Profesor M?

    Thanks in advance. I'm sure this was all covered before and feel free to point me to other threads. This was just on my mind and I wanted to get something started so as the weather warms, we can really do some racing. My kids are finally old enough to take an interest and I have some other friends now that have decided this setup needs more of a workout. So it's time to get serious about maintenance and repairs.

  • #2
    Tire buying...pick your poison..!
    Go into the web site or your favorite shop site, pick out a tire(s) and plunk down your money. Pretty simple.

    Me, I spread the wealth. Not any single shop caries EVERYTHING I want/need.
    I normally use four or five shops, Professor Motor being just one out of the bunch.



    • #3
      Thanks Mike- for the name of the shop we already know! Can you enlighten us and give us the names of the other 4 or 5 shops you mention, please!?

      I'm in the same situation SpeedyG , I have about 15 cars to fix - Scalextric, Carrera, Slot.It and Fly - and all are the same vintage as the cars you mention. I was lucky enough to be working across the street from Electric Dreams today and dropped in an spent some cash - got 2 BRM's and tires for the cars I need to fix. Jason was a great help in finding the correct tires for the cars!


      • #4
        Hey Speedy, let's see if I can help with some of your questions. Also, if this thread seems to have 'disappeared' at some point, you'll probably find it in the Forum as I'll try to move it there later but I'm not sure how to enable the re-direct function on the current V-Bulletin board.

        The Kenwood ('s initial Group C car) is of course a 956LH, rather than a 962. You mention that it's a 'very different' chassis, and compared to later Group C's you're right. The inline motorpod is 'switched around' compared to most of the later releases and this places the stock magnet differently as well as the general fore/aft weight balance of the car. Those early pods are often favoured by non-mag wood track users, incidentally, so don't throw it away! It's also different inasmuch as it was never designed to be able to accommodate an anglewinder pod - though that's the least important development, in my opinion (see further comments).

        Please, take the time to check out the site, here. Then, from the menu on the left, select 'Models'. Then go to 'Gruppo C'. You'll find 'em all. And, if you click on the 'Spare Parts' to the right of the models, you'll be able to see the complete build architecture/specifications of each. have been (and remain) an evolutionary company. They're continuously upgrading the potential of their cars; heck, I remember entering a Lancia in the 2010 Shootout Proxy, and at that time I was using their third development of that chassis to build into that car.

        So if you'll forgive me for being so long-winded about it, I would recommend that you invest $7.99 on the latest, greatest, evolution of the chassis for it, here. But not because you want to switch to anglewinder or anything, but because it's going to provide a better (i.e. 'looser') fit to the body allowing a bit of rattle which is good, and it's going to be more flexible, plus it's going to allow you to adjust your front axle ride height as a first step to keeping it off those NINCO rails.

        Taller rims/tires at the rear will also help with the 'dragging on the track' problem. 'standard' for Group C has been 16.5mm rims for some time now, but your Kenwood used 15mm as manufactured. But keep in mind that many tires - particularly some silicone tires (like Supertires) can't be 'stretched' to fit as they'll distort and no longer be flat on the track. Then again, most aftermarket tire manufacturers will have various OD available to fit different rims.

        IMHO, SICH26 guides are a 'mandatory' upgrade if your car didn't originally come with them.

        Most of my comments about the advancement of chassis to the latest and greatest Evo 6 version available apply to all of their cars, pretty much. I believe the Copehnagen car is brand spanking and leading edge, like that, the Coca Cola car pretty darn recent also. The Rothman's not so much (and make sure you don't actually have a Rothman's 956, also keep in mind that different chassis variants exist for both 956 & 962 cars and they're not interchangeable - go back to those links I posted to check out what's what). At $7 average per chassis swap it's not a big investment. Also, you should flatten your chassis for optimum performance, no matter who manufactured it. There's info on that procedure on the site as well.

        Where to go to buy your upgrade parts? Well I'll be honest and candid and forthright (keeping in mind that the guy who runs this site is a mate of mine). Firstly, I have no idea what kind of stock Professor Motor is currently carrying. Any time I look there for particular items from PM it seems to me that they have empty listings of sold out product. But maybe I haven't been looking for the right stuff.

        However, 132Slotcar (Alan's retail business) has always maintained an exceptional inventory of cars and parts - seriously. More extensive, even, than the US Distributor (Scalextric) ever has available. So take a look at their inventory, prices, quality of service, etc and make your own mind up about whether that's where you would like to spend your bucks.

        I would also suggest that, when replying to this thread to seek more info, you give folks just a little more insight into how you're running your cars (magnet vs no magnet, rubber & urethane vs silicone) just as a base point.
        Last edited by Scaleracing; 05-15-2019, 02:27 PM.


        • #5
          Thanks for the info. That is the kind of detail I was looking for. Feel free to move this if you want, but it may morph into more than just slot it, which is why I posted here to begin with. As for detail, I had a bad habit in the past of providing so much rambling detail that people got lost on my actual I try to keep it to the point, but...

          The track is on a 16' x 7.6' table. Old Ninco and the space is unheated, so it's like a lunar surface. If I had it to do over again I'd probably use what we used to call Scalextric sport. I don't like the raised rails, I don't need the extra width and I would like a usable R1. Currently I have no R1s in the layout because I just find the inside lane to be useless. But for the amount of use this table gets, no way am I starting over. Analog obviously, fed by a massive old school regulated supply, with adjustable voltage. 14awg to 4 or 5 soldered tap points. Even with a dead short across the rails, the voltage does not drop. The table is also on a hoist and stored on the ceiling most of the time, so there's flex to the table as it gets raised and lowered. The summary is, this is a toy, not a hobby. I'd love it to be a full on hobby with routed track and all the rest. But it's a toy, the goal is to be able to drop it, turn on the timing and have fun with cars that run well and have good parity between them. Also considering a quick table attachment that would shoot the main straight out into the driveway, putting the main straight at about 24' in length. Fastest laps are just under 6s, with the 962. No brake wire connected. I am sure with faster cars and brakes added that would go down quite a bit. Voltage is somewhere around the high 12s.

          I have done some amateur racing of 1:1 scale cars and have a bunch of 1:1 scale friends that are looking to do some summer evening races this year, so there is a push to get everything more sorted from timing and scoring to the cars to a parts inventory for when the cars go boom.

          The stock 962 performs well on this track. Yes they drag a bit but overall they are the most balanced out of the box car I have found. The Ninco cars had more clearance and a bit more slide. I kind of miss that and have considered resurrecting them. But at this point I'd rather stick to 12v based Slot it stuff so I have parity. In fact I was in the hobby shop last spring to buy angle winder conversion stuff for a couple old Ninco M3s and by the time I priced it out, I just bought four new cars instead. All four were in some form of broken by the end of the 3 day weekend...

          In addition to the 962s I bought a 4wd R8. I sanded down the guide thinking it was a guide depth issue that kept popping it out of the lane but later realized this car has massive rear magnet weight which almost pulls the front off the track even when it's sitting still. So every basically every track junction causes it to pop out of the slot. That car is sitting for now but I suspect the fix there is just some weight on the nose. The other car was a Martini something, Alpha maybe? It's also in need of lots of glue, but still running well. It does not perform like the 962 though.

          All of these cars get blown to bits within hours. It's disappointing how quickly the body work comes apart. The engine and gears seem to be indestructible on them, the rest not so much. I would welcome input on a slot car that has a single molded body that is not so prone to splintering into a thousand pieces. This isn't from my kids either, this is from the adults and while being careful.

          Beyond that there are a few Scalextric cars, which on this track are nearly full throttle all the way around, and some other random cars. My kids enjoy running those as they don't car about parity. Mostly though, the 962s are what gets run by the adults and they have seen hundreds of hours.

          I will follow up and bring in a few of the current 962 chassis to get these cars sorted. The Kenwood gets left as is. It's a good demo to show people what the drift life is like.

          This is from February and was the first time dropped in many months. I generally have the table itself more organized, but my son likes to climb on the table and turn it into a play area. The wood section where the controllers are is spring hinge locked. So when the kids lean across to grab stuff, in springs over and then snaps back into place when they stand up.
          Last edited by SpeedyG; 03-28-2019, 05:00 AM.


          • #6


            • #7


              • #8
                Great looking track there.

                If we can help you please let me know.
                We carry the full line of Cars and parts plus BRM, Policar, RevoSlot and Scaleauto.

                Plus of course the Magnet Marshal 2.

       is my Store and right now the only reason this Forum is online.
                SCI is financed from the sales of BRM, RevoSlot, Policar, Scaleauto, and Scalextric and Carrera.

                So hopefully people using this Site will consider us for cars, spares and accessories for those brands.

                We even do repairs, rebuilds and upgrades on cars.

                We are a full on Store 11,000 s/f of Slotcar Tracks, cars and parts.

                While other Stores have become online only we choose to support this Industry by being visible. Reaching new users daily.

                So if ever you need help please consider The ScaleRacing Center in Tacoma. We ship Worldwide. For free in the USA on orders over $65.00.

                In the past I chose not to activly promote my Store over others but as more move to online only and as I have invested in this Industry and Hobby to keep SCI online I hope you will give us a try.

                Alan Smith
                SCI Owner.



                • #9
                  I will certainly look to your store for the parts I need. At minimum I'd say two or three chassis, guide updates and whatever the next size up in rear tire is from stock. I don't need urethane or anything like that, stock equivalent, just fractionally larger.

                  I also have a pair of TSRF cars sitting here that showed amazing promise, but never worked right. I think Electric Dreams is where Philip's stuff ended up, but let me know if you have any parts for those. I'd love to get them working and maybe put those under the Ninco M3 bodies.


                  • #10
                    I do have a few TSRF car parts. Never really worked here well. Some were really concerned with the metal pin. Especially when run on Scalextric or Wood Tracks.

                    Electric Dreams is probably your best resourse for that brand.

                    As the market has changed over the last 22 years since I started what became Scalextric USA I have seen a huge shift to direct sales many without Retail locations.

                    With that in mind I have decided to focus on the lines I Import and a few selected brands such as Policar,, Scalextric and Carrera.

                    I cannot continue to invest in inventory from the many other brands so will faze out those lines and concentrate on what I can best support and supply.

                    We will still have sections for other brands on SCI but unless those Resellers want to be advertisers here and support the finances of SCI we will not allow linking to those Companies.

                    In this new market where many have the advantage if no location I choose to still keep a Serious Retail presence in the Greater Tacoma marketplace and also sell all over the World.

                    We manufacturer the Magnet Marshal 2 and partner with BRM to manufacture the Trans Am line in 1:24 scale.
                    Building all the ScaleRacing/ BRM Trans Ams for sale to the North American market.

                    I have finally realised I cannot support every brand so will focus on those mentioned above

                    Policar and will always be a big part of what we do here at The ScaleRacing Center in Tacoma.

                    Last edited by Scaleracing; 03-28-2019, 08:41 AM.
                    Alan Smith
                    SCI Owner.



                    • #11
                      It is difficult to be all things to all people. I'm self employed and understand the challenge. And yet sometimes it's those little things out of your core biz that bring in long term clients. I'm lucky to have two hobby shops within driving distance that support slot cars. The closest one is mostly 1/24 and they have their own large layouts and hold meets. The other is about an hour away and is entirely 1:32 plastic track. That's where my past five cars have come from, but I did not get the answers I was looking for on parts, which is why I came here. Again, now that I know, I will certainly make sure you get my online parts business at minimum.


                      • #12
                        What is the policar? I believe I was told at the hobby shop that they are essentially What is their purpose in life?


                        • #13
                          This is a Brand that are building to focus on a New Market.
                          There will soon be Sets and track, eventually going up to 8 lane.
                          Also a differnt line and range of cars which feature plastic wheels all round to keep cost down.

                          Alan Smith
                          SCI Owner.



                          • #14
                            I know it's been a year, but I figured I'd update this. Scaleracing hooked me up with a bunch of parts for the 962s. The competition chassis worked great and I ended up not changing tires. At least not yet. What I found was that the adjustable ride height on the front made all the difference. Too high and I lost magnet. Too low and it bounced. I can now set it just by the sound. If they sound like a train going around and hitting the track joints, that's just about right. I'm able to just break into the 5s with them setup this way. You still have to drive them. My brother took a couple and added weight and magnet. They are pretty much flat out and track record was a 4.3s. He likes it, I like the cars that are harder to drive. He was in town this weekend ed and we turned about 1500 laps each.


                            • #15
                              double post