No announcement yet.

SlotIt SCP-2 Analog Home Racing Controller

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
    There's also an SCP Simulator program you can use to tweak settings on a virtual controller to see how the throttle curve changes. I'm not sure if it's been updated since the v1.1 controller, but it can help some people, depending on how they learn. I believe you can still download it from
    I don't see it on their site. I found some links to the simulator and a spreadsheet on another forum.

    The curve for linear mode doesn't have DIP switches as an input, so I'm guessing they did not change the response on the SCP-1.

    Edit & Correction: The links to the download files do still work.
    Last edited by Axle; 01-27-2021, 11:31 AM.


    • #32
      Originally posted by Axle View Post
      ...One other thing. I also noticed that kid mode does not work unless you have the trigger map switch in the slow position. I was surprised, since the whole controller is forced into a different mode with the startup song and dance, I figured it would always limit the max voltage. That seems a bit easy for a kid to bump and override the speed limit.

      Having played with the trigger map switch some, I will say that the engineers made a bad component selection with that part. It's not a good switch. But mine does seem to be working correctly.
      I did some more testing with both my SCP2 controllers after replacing a bad switch in one of them. One of them functions just the same as you describe - with the top switch in the Slow position it's in Kids Mode. With the top switch in Std or Fast position the controller functions as if not in Kids Mode. My other controller does not function this way. I'm starting to think these are not QC'd at all after being assembled. I'll be emailing Cristian with my findings, and I'll report back with his response.


      • #33
        Originally posted by dinglebery View Post
        I'm starting to think these are not QC'd at all after being assembled.
        That behavior is very likely defined by software. Your controllers are likely running different versions of the software. It's typical to revise the software during production, and after. However I'm not aware of any published software updates for the SCP2, or if it's even possible to update the software outside of the factory.

        That would be an excellent question to ask


        • #34
          thanks a lot for the feedback, which is very useful.
          Being an engineer is a problem when one has to write a manual - besides, my English is good but of course, it's not my mother language either.

          A few random answers:
          1 - You should not replace the magnets with your own design. They are tuned to the sensitivity of the Hall sensors and, to give you an example, they differ between SCP-2 and 3 as the Hall sensors differ, too.

          2 - The SCP-2 firmware has not been updated, that I remember, since it was released. I'm aware of a bug which requires a reset of the controller to enter ghost mode, if you cannot enter such mode.

          3 - The simulator has not been updated lately (years). Still, it explains the main principles behind it.

          4 - I'll try to explain how the fast/slow switch works; it's not easy but once you get the concept, it gives you total control on the controller (no pun intended).
          My background is automotive electronics firmware design. I worked on this engine

          for a few years, quite a few 'mapping' concepts are the same. Mapping injection and ignition timings depending on throttle and RPM is at the base of engine control, and the principle here are the same: read the value of the trigger, infer the corresponding desired output voltage, adjust according to the knobs, and send it to the actuator.

          To understand how the slow/std/fast switch work, I would suggest to read the 'Programming the SCP-2 / 3' manual

          To operate and create the control curves, the SCP must know the position of the trigger, i.e. how many degrees the trigger has moved from the rest point.
          With, say, a mechanical device such as a potentiometer, we immediately know that a certain value corresponds to a certain angular position.
          Not so easy with a magnetic sensor: as the magnets vary across lots, each controller must be adjusted so that the firmware knows that a certain readout corresponds to a certain position in space.
          For example: when the trigger is rotated, say, 15° we may have a set of magnets reading of, say, 37, whereas other magnet would read, say, 45, that in the first case, would, say, correspond to 18° instead. This is what the programming according to the above said file does: it writes down into the controllers' memory the values corresponding to zero, 15°, 25°, and full throttle (refer to the scale on the PCB, pointed by the arrow shaped edge of the trigger). The brake and full throttle positions are constantly adjusted during the functioning to compensate for thermal and other slow variations, but the 15° and 25° references are fixed.
          The switch alters those two values, tricking the software into believing that the trigger is at a different position than it actually is. It adds or subtracts a fixed value from the magnetic sensor readout So, for example, if you set it to slow, a fixed number is deducted from the sensor readout. So, the upper layer of firmware believes that the trigger is at a smaller angle than it really is. So, consider that for example the expected power output at 15° is 33% of the maximum: if the firmware believes that the trigger is at 15° when in reality the trigger is at 18°, 33% of the power will be available at the real angle of 18° (remember: the firmware believes it is at 15°, not knowing that it's been tricked!), meaning that at 15° degrees the output will be less than 33%, say 30%.
          In other words, your power curve will rise more slowly. Same for the 25° point.
          The 'fast' position works the other way around.
          Now, WHY this switch ?? Because during racing or testing it gives you a very quick way to 'shift' the whole curve up or down. It is like a quick, reversible 'full curve reprogramming' on the fly.

          I hope this makes sense. In any case, you're invited to try the reprogramming procedure whose link I've inserted above, which also allows you to reprogram, within limits, the width of the 'dead areas' defining the zero (brake) and full throttle areas. You can repeat it over and over again to experiment with your own curves.


          • #35
            Thanks for dropping in Maurizio, I deeply appreciate your help with the controller questions here.
            Alan Smith
            SCI Owner.



            • #36
              Originally posted by HO RacePro View Post
              Worse, while I have tried changing the various dial and switch settings, they all seem to have little if any effect. The controller works -- it runs my cars -- but it doesn't seem any more advanced than a simple Parma resistor controller.
              As a SCP-1 owner, I know what you mean. So many knobs and buttons, many of which I've never had a use for.

              Then, they made the SCP-2. It's like cell phones, just when you think you've got everything figured out and you're comfortable with it (I'm on my fourth in eight years) there's a whole new learning curve, or something.

              But there's a really good video on the controllers that Greg's just posted, here.

              Meanwhile, if you ever get a chance to try an Avant Slot Hammer, you'll be amazed by the ergonomics. But I had to get rid of mine because I couldn't wrap my head around the electronics!


              • #37
                I tried to use my Slot.It SCP-2 just yesterday to test out a new car. Worked for half a lap, then nothing. No power to the car at all. I switched over to one of my Professor Motor controllers and that worked just fine.

                I am so very disappointed with my Slot.It controller. I'm wondering if I got a dud, or I've just not spent enough time going to school on it. I may need to wait until IHSR starts racing again so I can consult with club members who have been successful with theirs.

                Not a good customer experience to date. I appreciate that Slot.It has published an extensive guide to their controllers. I have tried to study it. Somehow my 8 years of college education in engineering and 40+ years of practice haven't quite prepared me for that challenge. I'll have to check out what Greg posted.

                Never heard of an Avant Slot Hammer. And its 'sposed to have even wonkier electronics?!? Save me!

                I am waiting on delivery of a new Slot.It Modern LeMans car. Should be simple enough for even me to understand.

                Ed Bianchi


                • #38
                  Sorry to hear that. customer support is second to none, so I would strongly suggested reporting the failure to your retailer. If they don't respond, then go direct to
                  Looking back at your photos, it appears your SCP2 has the high amp "metal" analog cartridge. Is that correct? I've had failures if I hook up wrong, but that's it.
                  Failures happen, but I know Maurizio will make it right, if your retailer does not.


                  • #39
                    Okay, I watched Greg's video, and felt I'd learned enough to cope with the three main controls -- power trim, sensitivity and brake. So I hooked up my SCP-2 and tried again.

                    This morning, for reasons unknown, the controller decided to play along. Power got through. Seemed to work fine to that extent.

                    So following Greg's lead I took a noisy car, lifted the rear wheels and tried out sensitivity. What I learned was that car, and almost all my other cars, would respond on the minimum sensitivity setting, both in the air and on the track. But I did find that the sensitivity adjustment would significantly modulate power at the very beginning of trigger pull. Quite a bit, actually. So, good.

                    Next I played with the brakes, and again, with the rear wheels off the track I could hear that the brake adjustment had a significant impact. I didn't get a feel for the difference in the two braking modes, but I suspect that will only be evident in actual racing, where it might affect how much coast you have entering a curve. I can see the potential value in that.

                    Finally I tested the power trim. Again, wheels off the track, I could hear the differences with increased trim. And the value of trim is easy to understand. A proper amount of trim will allow you to floor the car without breaking traction, which promotes wheelspin and fish-tailing.

                    With those insights on board I tried turning laps on my 4 x 12 foot high-banked oval track. With all three knobs set to zero I was turning 2.100+ second laps. By adding brakes and power trim I got that down by about a tenth of a second. Brakes obviously helped a lot, but I found that power trim made it easier to turn consistent laps. Coming off the banking it made controlling the entry onto the straight smoother -- less tendency for tail wag. Not that I couldn't manage it well manually, but the controller made it unnecessary for me to do that. With the controller doing that work for me turning consistent laps just was easier.

                    What I have learned is that my SCP-2 does seem to be working, and at least the power trim feature is a useful addition to the feature set of my more conventional Professor Motor controllers.

                    What I have not yet dealt with is the power curve adjustments, or the manual brake buttons. But I am willing to leave those for another day. I can see how the power curve adjustment might be useful on a track with a lot of high-speed curves, or low speed curves. I can also see where a manual brake button might be useful on a track where a long straight ends in a banked curve -- where you need a step change from flat out to just very fast. But it might take millisecond reflexes to make that work.

                    Kudos to Greg for posting a very informative video. And better yet, one that is concise and decently produced. You don't have to spend much time on YouTube to realize just how irritating gabby presenters with shaky camera handling can be. Good job Greg!

                    Ed Bianchi


                    • #40
                      I'm glad it helped! And that your controller is working properly.
                      For a high banked oval, I don't see much need for the curve adjustments. The "three big knobs" are all you really need. And yes, I find those additional curve settings quite useful on my technical track. I pretty much never use the hand brake. I figure anyone used to racing analog for long will already brake by releasing the trigger. That button has other functions in digital racing, along with hand braking. When I'm racing analog, I pretty much never touch any of the buttons. I set the knobs how I like for whatever car I'm driving, and drive.


                      • #41
                        As always thank you Greg this is what we need. Clean concise information. A simple how too on the excellent SCP series of Controllers.
                        Using the SCP3 now wireless and loving it.

                        They are available at the Store along with the SCP2.

                        Alan Smith
                        SCI Owner.



                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Scaleracing View Post
                          As always thank you Greg this is what we need. Clean concise information. A simple how too on the excellent SCP series of Controllers.
                          Using the SCP3 now wireless and loving it.

                          They are available at the Store along with the SCP2.

                          wish the wireless would work with Carrera digital.


                          • #43
                            Yeah, that would be nice. You can make it work, but it takes a few extra bits. In fact, I just did this to show functionality to someone I sold a D132 cartridge to with an SCP1 handle they want to use. They'll get the CRI and oXigen cartridge to form the wireless bridge. All told, it's a pretty penny, but works great. The reason the SCP3 works directly with Scalextric ARC Air/Pro is that they both use the same technology for wireless. In fact, worked with Hornby to develop the wireless aspect of the ARC Air/Pro bases.


                            sex vidio
                            antalya escort
                            lara escort escort istanbul escort sirinevler escort antalya
                            pendik escort
                            beylikduzu eskort bayan taksim eskort lara eskort bayan bakirkoy bayan eskort
                            gaziantep escort gaziantep escort
                            replica watches
                            kadikoy escort kartal escort