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  • SCP-1 Question

    Hi guys,

    I've been playing with my SCP-1 lately. My club races no mag/11V. I have no problem in linear mode setting the controller up for S-can motors like the orange endbell, Scalextric S-can, etc. I'm having a tough time finding a good setting for long can motors like the NSR King and Avant Slot. Do any of you have suggestions in terms of settings for these motors? Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    dr. Vanski:
    I have precious little time on my SCP-1 and Scaleauto Radical SR-9. Still playing with it. The long cans DEFINATELY drive differently!


    • #3
      Is this thing on?

      Thanks for posting. I find the long cans to be undriveable in race conditions using this controller. S-cans are no problem. Pulling the trigger back slowly the revs increase - dip slightly - then increase to maximum. Perhaps it is defective?

      To be honest I am disappointed by the lack of response from either or any of the retailers who have touted this product. Regardless, I'm still looking for a good long can setup. Any suggestions? Anyone?


      • #4
        To be honest I am disappointed by the lack of response from either or any of the retailers who have touted this product.
        I guess some folks take the weekend off.

        Would be good to give people an opportunity to notice and respond to the Thread. Have you tried a call or email to, or the Distributor, or the Retailer you bought it from?


        • #5
          What I noticed the most was the stronger braking effect of the long can compared to the short can. I have driven it with three long can motors: A stock GBTrack Super truck, The Stock Scaleauto Radical SR-9 setup and a Slot.It Flat 6R. I just assumed it was the difference between a long can and the short cans


          • #6
            Thanks for the reply dr. I just can't get a smooth predictable response out of high performance long cans (NSR King, Spirit SXxX, Avant Slot green and orange) during acceleration. S-can motors are easy to set up and adjust the controller for. This is not what I expected from a $180 (including the cost of the separate negative ground module) controller.

            Paul, I work for a living too so its difficult for me to spend the time phoning people during office hours. My controller was purchased second hand, my negative polarity module purchased new. I have some PMs and emails waiting for me regarding this problem from other SCI members - thanks guys! I will check them out the next time I'm at the track and share my findings with the community. Otherwise, look for a gently used SCP-1 and negative polarity module in the buy/sell/trade.


            • #7

              It is quite difficult to find a solution without trying it in hand. 'Driveability' is very subjective.

              I'd try two things:

              1 - stay in linear mode, set the minimum speed to something reasonable, and 'choke' the controller with the blue small knob, turning it to lower setting until you reach a point you like. Make sure the switches are not set ot 0,0 or you will loose power.
              2 - switch to curve mode, set the blue knob around 5, dip switches to either 0,1 or 1,0, and then play with min and curve knobs (yellow, blue) to find a good response.

              Let me know



              • #8
                Thank-you Maurizio. This is exactly the kind of information I am looking for. I will give this a try.


                • #9
                  I wanted to post a response, but since I had never driven the cars in question (as far as I know, as I'm still new to all this), I didn't think it would be helpful. I will say that I haven't driven a car I couldn't tame with the SCP1, though.
                  If the motor has a ton of torque, I turn up the green knob. It often has a ton of brakes as well, so I turn down the red knob (0 is at 12-o'clock) or go counter-clockwise to the "sweep brakes" section.
                  If the track is technical, I usually have the blue knob down pretty far so I have more control in the corners.
                  I almost exclusively use "linear with step" mode (DIP switched on top anything other than on/on, and Lin/Crv set to Lin), which lets me use the blue knob to control overall power, but I still get full speed when I pin the throttle. That's useful for the straights, even on a track with a lot of technical bits.

                  I wish I had one of those cars to play with, though.


                  • #10
                    Thanks Mr. Flippant. I will try your suggestions. Thanks as well to my slotbrothers for the email and PM.


                    • #11
                      I don't have any cars with long can motors, but I have driven a bunch of proxy cars that had them. All of the cars were non-magnet and all of the tracks were wood at 10 volts. The long can motors were all sluggish at low speeds so I had to give them more throttle than I am used to, once the motor starts to rev up the power comes on with a bang and that can be trouble in the middle of a corner. My theory is that the long can motors have a lot of mass in the armature so they don't want to rev up quickly. With something like a Kelvin Light Bench you could hit the motor with full power and plot the revs VS time, then compare that to an S can motor. It should be possible to adjust the controller for a non-linear voltage response that would compensate for the weak bottom end that the motors have. Just changing your sensitivity adjustment will not compensate for a motor that has a non-linear response. I was tempted to fiddle with the bands on my Difalco Fanatic and I would have done that if I only had to deal with a single car. If you were racing with magnets at higher voltages you might never operate a long can motor in the range were it is not linear.


                      • #12
                        Ah. Sounds like maybe some kind of curve would be in order. I'd use their PC simulator to play with settings until I saw a curve that looked good, then try it out on the controller with the car.


                        • #13
                          That is the beauty of the simulator. Find the curve you need and the see improvement on/at the track!


                          • #14
                            I missed this thread because I have been painting Car Town green.
                            The baseline setup that I use for Kings and Gniks is curve mode, both dip switches Off, Power Trim and Min Speed on 0, Brake Sweep 07 and Curve on 7. The first thing that I adjust is the Curve dial to adapt it to the character of the motor. When it reacts too fierce, turn it counterclockwise, if you want it to react more snappy, turn it clockwise.


                            • #15
                              I'm no expert on the SCP-1, but the curve mode is effective to smooth out "hot" motors.

                              Here is my "baseline" for curve mode.

                              DIP SWITCHES: both in "ON" position
                              POWER TRIM: 0
                              MIN SPEED: 0
                              BRAKES: fixed 7 (right side)
                              CURVE (SMALL KNOB): 5
                              • Adjust the CURVE until you get OK car control (usually dial it back for long-cans)
                              • Adjust BRAKES to your liking on the fixed range (right side)
                              • Adjust MIN SPEED to increase minimum curve speed which widens the trigger range and help you keep the speed up even if you brake a bit too much.
                              • Fine tune the CURVE knob again

                              After I have the above sorted, I add some POWER TRIM to add "traction control" and play around with "TRAIL BRAKING" (left side of the brake range).

                              It's a bit difficult to give exact answers on the curve mode, as it seem "interactive" to the speed level on the track, but once you get the "feel" it's very effective to smooth out motors.

                              I think the curve mode work best when you race (push hard), as it help you keep a higher speed through the turn and give more accurate and smooth motor control. The "trail braking" also help you brake better at "turn in" especially when pushing hard at high speed, but it can become too jerky when braking for low speed corners if the motor brake too much.

                              I think the curve mode and trail braking make the cars behave a little bit like real race cars. They are rough and jumpy when driving slow, but smooth out when raced at high speed.

                              The linear mode is great for cruising with Ninco classics or "Scalex" S-cans at low voltage

                              Btw: I still need to learn more about the different DIP switch modes though..
                              Last edited by 356speedster; 09-14-2010, 12:28 PM.