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  • #91
    Originally posted by MrFlippant View Post
    Mikey, there's always enough straights to USE full throttle. That's not the same as the car actually getting up to full speed. Most people don't have enough room for that, but the quicker the car moves between turns, the faster your lap will be. The hard part is scrubbing off the right amount of speed before you enter the next turn.
    That and trying not to break traction as much as possible and get the best possible acceleration.

    I get what you mean about using full throttle on the straights, and I do that pretty much, but the straights just aren't lonnnnnnnng enough....

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    • #92
      They never are.

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      • #93
        Another Years Old Thread that I'm bringing back to life...! So I just bought a BNIB SCP1a controller today (I can post a pic of the box tomorrow) but it's different from the one I already own. The one I own and have had since 2009 says ver1.1 on the front of it. The brand new one I purchased today does not. Does that mean the newly purchased one has been sitting since before 2009 and I'm a sucker for buying it?

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        • #94
          Before 1.1, there was version 1.
          The main difference is that version 1.1 can reprogram the basic curve that links the trigger position to the magnet readout, as described here:
          http://slot.it/wp-content/uploads/20...gSCP-2.en_.pdf

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          • #95
            Thanks for the quick response and the information! I guess one question is... is this controller worth what I paid for it ($140) or is the money better spent on the SCP2?

            Also, will it work with how my track is wired? I only have 2 Lanes btw. IMG_7849.JPGIMG_7847.JPGIMG_7848.JPG
            Attached Files
            Last edited by dinglebery; 05-28-2020, 07:46 AM.

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            • #96
              Originally posted by dinglebery View Post
              Thanks for the quick response and the information! I guess one question is... is this controller worth what I paid for it ($140) or is the money better spent on the SCP2?
              This would be a personal choice. In my case, I have had one of all the Slot.it controller iterations: 1, 1.1 and 2. While each iteration had definite adjustability and configurability improvements, in practice I found that I have really never used it. The basic adjustability by means of the knobs as implemented quite consistently across all models has proven to be more than sufficient for my needs. The remapping that Slot.it mentioned above certainly can be useful but I have never bothered with it. So in my case it is the perfect solution to a non-existent problem.

              I have found that, in basic use, all the different models are very, very similar. The only real improvement that I have found worth while FOR MY PURPOSES is the fact that the 2 has a ball bearing on the trigger. One other advantage to my mind is that the new SCP201d can be used on both negative and positive ground tracks: you cannot inadvertently buy "the wrong one"!

              Note that I have participated in several 24 hour races over the years (I believe I am up to 6 completed 24 hour races now...) and I have found all the Slot.it controllers perfectly adequate for even advanced and demanding competitions such as these. I love the feel of all of them: the soft, smooth and completely precise control is perfect for me. A personal choice I know but I do not like the harsh feel of controllers that use wipers across contacts. I also love the fact that all my Slot.it controllers have been essentially completely maintenance free over many years of hard use, other than one adjustment of the regular bushing trigger on the SCP1.1 at one stage.

              I love them all!

              Alwyn

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              • #97
                Thank you Alwyn for your perspective! I guess I'm struggling with the fact the controller I just purchased for $140 is literally 10 years old - when I can buy a new one for maybe $40 more. But more importantly, can I use it on my track?

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by dinglebery View Post
                  Thank you Alwyn for your perspective! I guess I'm struggling with the fact the controller I just purchased for $140 is literally 10 years old - when I can buy a new one for maybe $40 more.
                  Ah, what can one say about that? Unfortunately I suppose it is a case of "caveat emptor". But in fairness: it is still a very good controller that was sold at a lower price than the current version.

                  Originally posted by dinglebery View Post
                  But more importantly, can I use it on my track?
                  Welcome to the confusing world of slot car wiring terminology. As I read/understand it, "common ground" is the same as "positive polarity" and "common positive" is the same as "negative polarity". I am not sure how that makes sense but whatever. In your case you have a controller that says on the box it is meant for "common ground", which is "positive polarity". Your wiring diagramme says it is for "positive polarity". Ergo: IF the right controller was in the box and IF your track was wired in accordance with the diagramme you posted you should be golden.

                  Note that, if you decide to go for an SCP02, you need to get the "Universal analogue" model SCP201ai . This model of the SCP02 now has a cartridge that works for both positive and negative polarity, you just have to ensure the polarity jumper is in the correct position. From the manual of the SCP201bc cartridge that is used in the SCP201ai controller (and a note there is an error in the doc as marked with the red box. The info in the green box is correct):

                  SCP02 wiring.jpg
                  Last edited by SuperSlab; 05-28-2020, 01:17 PM.

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                  • #99
                    Excellent SuperSlab! Thanks again for the info and confirming that I'm not going crazy - I was starting to confuse myself after reading all the literature I had from 10 years ago during my first track build and now.

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                    • Here are alternate track wiring diagrams that might be easier to follow. The first is the positive polarity (common ground) type used by most clubs.



                      The second is the negative polarity (common positive) used with set type tracks except for the new Policar track.



                      If you are going to have driver's stations with screw post connections it is best to have the black (wiper) connection in the middle to avoid getting a dead short across your power supply.

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                      • Thank you Rich but I think that adds to my confusion now. I've been at this for more than a day and can't figure it out, yet. I've wired one lane exactly how I've wired my previous track from years ago, and I'm using the same SCP-1.1 controller also. Here's the cartridge without the fuse. IMG_7852.JPGIMG_7853.JPG

                        I have Carrera track and I'm using the standard Carrera power base track section including the controller connector section. Here's a progress pic IMG_7850.JPG
                        From what I found out about the original Carrera connections:
                        - Pin1 (Black wire) = Direct to Rail
                        - Pin2 (Red wire) = Positive (+)
                        - Pin3 (Blue wire) = Negative (-)

                        I've tried 5 controller wiring methods with varying results - none of which allow me normal use of driving the car when I pull the trigger on the controller. Actually, one method does but it seems the car only gets some juice and not the full range available. That method is: PIN1-YELLOW controller wire / PIN2-RED controller wire / PIN3-BLACK controller wire.

                        Can I get help with the Correct way to Wire The Controller to How I have The Track Connector wired, please! I would really, Greatly appreciate it!!
                        here again is how the track is wired now... IMG_7849.JPG

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                        • I started a new thread. Admin feel free to remove my posts if felt they don't contribute to the topic.

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