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BRM and other Questions for Newbie

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  • BRM and other Questions for Newbie

    I have a very large collection of 1:32 cars that I have collected over many years. I am now starting a large scale track to go with my HO layout.

    My track will be two lane routed MDF with mag braid about 87-feet long. The lane spacing and shoulders will be wide enough for 1:24 as well.

    So I started looking at 1:24 offerings and saw the BRM cars. They look really nice and have bodies that interest me. Questions:

    Do BRM cars run well out of the box or do they need tweaking?

    Are the chassis/motors similar such that two cars can run evenly?

    Do they run similar to Carrera cars so they can be part of the mix?

    I am a recreational racer and am not looking for all out racer cars.

    This is my track plan as of today:

    Plan 003 by bonez 300

    This will go with my HO layout in my toy room:

    Overall 003 by bonez 300

    Overall 005 by bonez 300

  • #2

    Which BRMs

    First comparison - BRM 1/24 cars run at 12v Carrera 1/24 run at 18v.
    BRM cars don't have a magnet installed though you can put one in on most (if not all) of the cars. Carrera 1/24 have two magnets like their 1/32 cars.
    Most BRM now have a metal chassis. The Porsche 962 and other Group C cars have a plastic chassis available as an anglewinder though the earlier ones had an inline chassis. The early Porsche 917k also had plastic chassis.

    The BRM Trans Am cars are quite similar - same motor same chassis parts just a slight difference in the chassis plate. I run mine without a magnet. I also changed the tyres to urethane ones from Paul Gage but you can use the stock rubber or buy softer BRM rubber ones as well. They run quite well handle nicely - they do need some basic tuning - tyre truing etc.I have found the brakes not as strong as Carrera cars.

    The Group C cars - I haven't raced yet they also run well. We put the magnet in them though I think we will end up removing it. Once again tyres and basic tuning.

    I have two Porsche 917k and a Ferrari 512M one Porsche has a plastic chassis the other two have a metal chassis. They all run well no magnet - once again tyre change to urethane.

    Lastly you have the BRM mini-saloons. NSU, Simca, Fiat, Escort, Mini etc - these are great little cars - the stock tyres hook up nicely. They are a bit quirky in the rear axle as the wheels have camber but they run well. We race them no magnet. Across the models there are pluses and minus for each car - some are a little top heavy etc but with basic tuning they go well. We raced them Saturday and from memory a Mini, an NSU and Renault finished on the podium. Don't think anyone raced the little Fiat and no one had an Escort yet.

    Carrera 1/24 are a lot of fun to race - they are fairly evenly matched across the GT3 cars - like all slot cars one car may prove a bit quicker than another. I won all my heats on Saturday running an Aston, Mercedes, Corvette and Porsche 911.

    The classic are my favourites beautiful cars. I find my Ferrari 512s quicker than my Porsche 917k but a mate has a Porsche that is closely matched to mine. I have a nicely tuned GT40 as well. Mainly tuning is tyre set up and because we run them with magnets there is a bit of tuning on the magnets as well - there are plastic shims to adjust the position.


    PS great looking tracks
    Last edited by dangermouse; 08-03-2020, 04:04 AM.


    • #3
      The Gp C BRM's set up box stock (red motor, shore 30 tires) are probably our most entertaining and enjoyable class. They run OK out of the box but with some attention applied to truing the tires and setting the gear mesh, they can run silent and fast. They are superbly entertaining. We spec'd box stock to take the mystery out of parts selection to focus on tuning and driving. The only deviation we allow is using Parma gears for the inline cars as the stock BRM were not terribly robust.

      Our main club track is 3 lane copper tape MDF with wide enough spacing for passing in the corners. It does have a little bit of magna-primer on it so we do get some stick from the magnets but it just goes along with the ground effect nature of the cars in real life. They are a blast.

      We've also run the Trans Am cars occasionally and the GT cars once or twice, and they are also fun but more complicated. The Gp C make an excellent spec class.
      Last edited by ckouba; 08-25-2019, 12:49 AM.


      • #4
        BRM's are great in my opinion as long as you run them in their classes - Grp C, Classic, TransAm, Mini's,GT. For anything BRM give Alan @ Scaleracing a ring 1 253 255 1807


        • #5
          I would like to clarify a term often used in this Industry.
          RTR. Ready to run is a term often used. I even see it often on my Store Site I need to change that as almost no car is ready to run out of the box. Maybe Scalextric and Carrera on their own track systems.
          Certainly cars with adjustments can not really be ready to run let alone race as supplied.

          On BRM we bulletproof bodies, lubricate axles, gears etc. Were adjustable setting axle height on the front is critical to good handling and brakes. Truing tires and choosing the right tires for your track are a must.
          Breaking in gears after setting mesh and resetting after break in before racing are also very important.
          Also where used screws should be loctited in place, and covered by clear tape to prevent loss on track.

          To document set up on BRM cars would take a lot, and depends on the Class. But to be brief:

          Group C inline
          True tires we fit lowered fronts.
          Set guide correctly with lead wires containing the o ring on the first gen guides. Or switch to the sprung guide ( used either sprung or shimmed )
          Switch with Sigma "S" rear crown gear. Set rear axle with zero float and check this often as any float changes gear mesh which can destroy gears. Set crown gear with zero lash at tightest spot and mark gear so you know where that is. As gears bed in this will change. Lube with good gear grease( we sell it )
          Make sure driver, cockpit is assembled corectly and glue in driver and accessories or they tend to dislodge in a crash.
          Make sure the underside of the cockpit tray is flat, sand off bumps. Shorten countersunk screw as it will hit the underside of the drivers seat before tightening. Snug tight screw and cover with clear tape.

          OK that is a start. I will look into building some build up files in the BRM section on SCI.

          A quick note, the Trans Am cars if bought from the ScaleRacing/BRM production ar very close to Ready To Run as I build them all.
          Screws are loctited, motor and gears set and mesh broken in. Everything is lubricated. We do not true tires ( we could if wanted ) We do extra work on the bodies we tooled in Partnership with BRM. Drivers glued in and seat, fire extinguisher, steering wheel. Glass is reglued, interior heat glued and Shoe Goo'd in place.

          We recommend bulletproofing bodies, we do not do that as some may not like
          the extra Shoe Goo we use. But bodies last much longer in hard racing once done.

          OK now I have to go build cars to ship out to Dealers and Customers.

          More later.
          Alan Smith
          SCI Owner.



          • #6
            Bonez Now that you've had your track completed for some time, have you run any BRM cars? I've just set up my Gulf Mini (after installing lights) and it's great! I now have the NSU on the bench to get set up. Love these cars!


            • #7
              Unfortunately not yet. Summer is here and we are outside a lot. I am working on converting my old HO bodies to modern Viper chassis. I also repaint and apply accurate decals. The 1:32 and 1:24 activity will pick up soon. Too many toys and not enough time. And I am retired!


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