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Tiny SlotIt Set Screws

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  • #16
    double post
    Last edited by SlotsNZ; 08-21-2019, 12:05 PM.


    • #17
      Ed - you are keen and lateral thinking ..... but I feel you really are not listening ( reading ), as the reason you had problems, was not using the tools for the job.
      The little hex wrench under a box is just a freebie/backstop, sort of to avoid the "batteries not included" syndrome, not intended for serious work.
      And as gmullan said, tools of different brands have some manufacturer tolerance to the somewhat flexible 0.9 / 0.95 "standard" and as Superslab said, the system works well, just make sure you have your bits matched and checked as compatible.
      His experience is the same as mine, and I know the beggar is a good builder, I seem to recall competing with him the the North American Shootout proxy a couple of times.

      If I was trying to tell you something was wrong with HO Scale systems, you'd probably send me to elementary school - as I know squat, and would suggest things that really weren't practical.
      You are not so familiar with 1/32nd products, so what I wrote above was designed to help.
      It takes time to write a technical reply.........

      The M2 grub screw works perfectly well on wheels and gears for 100s of thousands of cars a year from at least 12 of the "quality" European brands that I can think of off-hand.
      The only exceptions of the top of my head are
      NSR - 440
      Thunderslot M2.5
      Sloting Plus M2.5
      ,,,,,, I think I may have missed one

      Any more complex mechanical solution like you are proposing above is

      a) greater cost [and the makers are fighting heard to restrain costs in manufacturing for a tiny world market ]
      b) more prone to failure
      c) less effective than a simple pressure / twist force arrangement, which can have effective control with a torque based limiter that puts the money cost into the tool not the parts

      I probably fit 1,000 plus grubs a year on and off wheels and and spur and crown gears.
      Just don't have any problems.

      It really "ain't broke" so if you really want a better result next time, just look back above.
      Only trying to help.
      Last edited by SlotsNZ; 08-21-2019, 12:12 PM.


      • #18
        I have four different hex drivers that I regularly use for 'slot it' sized set screws.

        1. Hudy
        2. Scaleauto
        3. MB Slot
        4. NSR

        All are a little different in size and all have different characteristics.

        I find the hudy tips to be the best, stronger and best fit. It is my first choice of tool. Slot car corner (I think) currently uses a Hudy tip in their 'slot it' hex drivers.

        I do not use the Slot it tool. I have never liked any of their hex drivers.

        Some like torque limiting tools, I do not. I would rather feel the limit myself. Just my opinion.

        If I find a set screw that gets reamed out and slips on the driver, then I throw it out and replace it. I never try to keep using a bad part. There are also differences in set screws. If you are screwing down to an axle I recommend using a 'cup point' set screw, It will grab better and have less potential to slip. For axle height and body float adjustment set screws I use either oval point or flat point for less friction.

        Good tools make a difference. It took me years to acquire all the tools that I have, some tools turned out to outstanding others junk. Some of my tools are no longer available and I hope they never break. Others have been surpassed with newer versions. And there are some newer tools that I have not tried yet.


        • #19
          If you have a replaceable tip driver that you like it would be a good idea to buy a spare tip. I have found that it is easy to snap the tip off of a Hudy driver and those are expensive to replace. Using larger diameter set screws may not always be a good solution. NSR uses bigger set screws, but their wheels have small diameter hubs, so only a couple of turns of the screws will catch and it is very easy to strip the threads in the wheels. Most of my cars have hubless wheels and tires that are glued on, in that case I have to poke a hole through the tire to reach the set screw. I often have to grope around a bit to be sure that the tip is fully seated in the set screw before I turn the wrench.


          • #20
            My solution: Drill & tap 1-72, use (black) steel set screws - ~ 60 years, 100's of fittings, zero problems.