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Just curious, (Revo Slot)

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  • #46
    If they are sanded or trued some tires will need to be polished to get the best results, a rough tread will not have as much grip as a perfectly smooth one. Some tires will quickly get polished when you run the car around the track, others will need many hundreds of laps. Some people use fine sandpaper to polish their tires, I put them on a car and run that around a skid pad made up of very rough Ninco track.

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    • #47
      Even on our club track which is 6-6.5 secs long with a Revo, tyre wear isn't avoidable.

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      • #48
        My tuning -

        Interesting thought, raising the rear axle..!
        While most all of the checks on my Marcos car were good and required no adjusting, I'd not thought of shimming the rear axle up. Even though on ALL of my Slot.it cars, I bought the raised axle motor pod..!
        Loosening the body has no effect on cars on my track, for whatever reason. Even though it has an overpass and a moderately heavy banked turn.
        I've only added weight to one of my many cars, and that was because it kept pulling the guide out of the slot at the beginning of the straight. Otherwise, I keep my cars as light as possible.
        Stock motor so far, runs well as is.
        Yep, chassis pans move freely, no adjusting required.

        Mike

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        • #49
          The Toyota GT-1 arrived, it runs fantastic right out of the box. Didn't need any extra weight, no motor change, even the stock Revoslot tires have great grip.

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          • #50
            Mitch -

            Put some clear nail polish or CA glue on the front tire tread. It'll help it corner better / faster / smoother.

            Mike

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            • #51
              Really building into a really nice selection so far. Based on this photo, which should be them all, we have 32 in the GT2 class.
              13 x Porsche 911
              6 x Dodge Viper
              7 x Marcos
              6x Toyota Supra

              8D8EFC12-909A-4AEE-B7A3-475C8C9EBB50.jpeg

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              • #52
                Heads up to others / Interesting find.

                I haven't been at my track for a few weeks. Been playing with my new high-end airguns.
                Anyway, after a quick vacuuming of my track, I noticed that the motor in my Marcos, is up against the interior. While the center plate does move...some, it is far from full movement

                Anyway, like I said, just a heads up to others to check their cars for full chassis movement.

                Mike

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                • #53
                  We use shims under the rubber vibration boots to get the motor off the interior. This will help a lot with running you want the body to float.
                  Also check bearings do not move in the uprights as this will also cause issues. A little loctite on the outer race, taking care not to get into the bearing, really helps.

                  Also there are different length brass float nuts. This can dramatically change the performance of your cars. Same nuts as used on the BRM Mini Cars and ScaleRacing/BRM Trans Am cars.
                  Alan Smith
                  SCI Owner.
                  www.scaleracing.com
                  www.slotcarillustrated.com
                  www.facebook.com/scaleracingcenter
                  www.132slotcar.us

                  1-253-255-1807

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                  • #54
                    Thanks for the hints -

                    This is an outta the box car.
                    The pillow blocks are tight. I checked all of that before it hit the track for the first time.
                    I haven't had time yet, but I'm not going to hack the chassis, because the interior is in the way... Bad design.
                    In my quick look, it seems that some quick sanding to the interior will fix the problem.

                    I've tried the loose body thing on many of my plastic cars. On my track, there is no speed/handling difference, either good or bad. So, no sense in doing it. No sense in loosing body screws to the "slot" Gods.

                    Mike

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                    • #55
                      Ok..done.

                      The motor sat a little "tail" high, actually at an angle - fixed.
                      The drivers butt sat a little low - fixed, sanded on slightly.
                      The lead wires sat a little high. Their stiffness pushed hard on the center pan - fixed (two things). Body clearanced, reformed lead wire shape.

                      Note - The design of this car (Marcos), the body "fully" floats on the center pan IF it is free to. NO NEED to leave the body screws loose, or do any shimming. Just fix the little things that keep the chassis from doing what it was "designed" to do..!

                      My comment in the above post about a "bad design"... was done without the full knowledge of the cars design. Because everything is such a close fit, everything MUST / CAN BE be adjusted to where the body floats on the center pan without loose screws, and without shims.
                      1. Must have motor clearance at the drivers butt.
                      2. Lead wire clearance in several places at the underside of the body. I bent the wires down and out. I sanded flat some of the black plastic that is the hood closeout.

                      I'd bet that the rest of the Revo cars may have similar details that need...fixing.

                      Now, to see if this made any changes to its drivability.

                      Mike

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                      • #56
                        Great car the Revoslot #28........Have to search for cockpit picture of real car? WP_20200717_16_10_325_Rich.jpg

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                        • #57
                          Need a top photo of cockpit??
                          toyota-gt-one-1998-1999 4.jpg
                          Last edited by sascws90; 07-30-2020, 06:27 AM.

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                          • #58
                            Still no cockpit pic .....
                            le-mans-1998-finish-order-32.jpg

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