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My new home track

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  • My new home track

    Hi all,
    I've built a 12' x 8' L-shaped table to run my new Policar track and have a first experimental layout with two lanes. I would like to use my old analog (Parma) trigger controllers in place of the plunger controllers and keep the controller on same 3-clip arrangement for home and other places. From what I've read on-line I might have a polarity difference using the standard power base with a three post attachment?

    In the meantime, here's a picture of my new table and track layout! I am interested on suggestions and experience developing my track layout. I'm using the free version of UR30 to develop any ideas! Please, fire away. - Jim
    20230312_101942 by Jim Harris, on Flickr

  • #2
    OK, that post was from a couple of weeks ago and was stuck in cyber space, I guess from a server problem, so bear with me! - ​In the meantime, I've re-done the track layout so here is an updated picture (I hope)
    20230402_164436 by Jim Harris, on Flickr


    • #3
      This is the way that club style 1/32nd tracks are wired and that is also the way that Policar tracks are wired.


      • #4
        Originally posted by cobrapatrol View Post
        ...I am interested on suggestions and experience developing my track layout...
        It looks like the power base is located on the "inside" union of the legs of the "L". My experience with "L" shaped tracks is that if drivers must stand in this area there will be line-of-sight problems at both ends of the track. Of course if you go wireless this won't be an issue.


        • #5
          Thanks RichD and mfogg

          There appears to be a little circuit board inside to power base - does that affect the overall principal of the track wiring? Is it reversible? Mfogg -The table is at about waist height and I stand to drive - I am not sure how my line-of-sight is a problem unless I have to look through another driver? I guess if that's a problem I could move the power base over to the straight on the left hand side. - Jim

          20230403_073340 by Jim Harris, on Flickr
          Last edited by cobrapatrol; 04-03-2023, 08:13 AM.


          • #6
            I would just hardwire to the track and remove electronics.



            • #7
              At a guess I'd say you are running your cars with traction magnets. Many clubs race without them. But if you choose to remove the traction magnets you'll need to install skirts on the outside of your corners. Otherwise when the car on the outside lane slides it'll fall off the track. You can buy skirts or make them. You have options.

              You might want to install skirts anyway. Make decisions about magnets later.

              Ed Bianchi
              York Pennsylvania USA


              • #8
                Bob - Yes! Just basic analog is all I ask. Ed, As for aprons, I've used up all the ones that came with the kit - I will add more as I can. Actually, one of my cars is non-magnet - the orange SCX Porsche 917. It's a blast on this track. In the meantime, I built an adapter to go from the 3.5mm hand controller plug to a three-post - so that I can use my trigger controllers. The hoock-up worked well so I guess I'm OK now.
                20230404_093750 by Jim Harris, on Flickr


                • #9
                  Dig the TR6.


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Silberpfeil View Post
                    Dig the TR6.
                    Yes! It's a 1969, first year of the model. The motorcycle in the background is a 1970 BSA 441 Shooting Star.
                    Last edited by cobrapatrol; 04-05-2023, 07:54 AM.


                    • #11
                      Cool. I had a March build ‘69 and a mid-year ‘72 with the factory steel hardtop.
                      Autocross raced the ‘72.