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What are your ride height rules?

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  • #16
    Our club does 1/16 for brass chassis and 3/32 (or is it 5/64) for europlastic.

    Scott

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    • #17
      There are several schools of thought as to how to make a plastic chassis work.

      1) Make the body rock seperate from a solid , flexible chassis. Pods may be glued tight.
      2) Use a motor pod to isolate the body and chassis rock and flex action.
      3) Keep ALL lead inside the protective plasic(insulating)chassis (OPTION) or
      4) Add lead to bottom of chassis to lower Center of Gravity (without shorting out)

      Our club allows 1,2,& 4 now and is leaning towards #3.

      We also allow reducing the front tire diameter to lower the nose as opposed to lowering or modifying the body/frame mounts. We do have an 'open' class where these modifications are allowed. We do not use a feeler gauge to verify 'too low'.
      Last edited by ramcatlarry; 03-15-2010, 10:37 AM.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Smokeio View Post
        Hi Jeff, you need to be very careful doing this. In most cases, there is very little room in the fender wells for the tires. These cars need the pods to float so it is very easy to have a tire rub and any form of rub will ruin the handling of a car. Start raising the pod up and you will have all sorts of problems. I would go for an offset pod with lower profile tires if you wanted to get a lower CG.
        I noticed that...and needed to place spacers on the body mounts to keep the tires from interfering. The side benefit was that the spacers prevented the car from looking "slammed" as the body had the original ride height with the 17mm wheels we were using.

        - Jeff

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        • #19
          None. We have an unspoken rule that all attached magnets be covered w/tape to avoid sparking and controller shortage like SCP-1. If we add tape to our magnets, we are able to run as low as we want.

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