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Getting a FlySlot Williams FW07 to run proper

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  • Getting a FlySlot Williams FW07 to run proper

    Last year I posted how I tuned my Racer SW Porsche 935K2.

    So, I thought it was time to post another one. I've had my eye on the FlySlot Williams FW07 for quite some time. My Brabham ran into some trouble recently and has been almost a second slower. Tired of getting bullied on the race track I decided to opt for a backup car while I fix my Brabham (pinion gear lost two teeth).

    While I've wanted to try the Williams, I've read how gawd awful these are out of the box. The complicated gear box is central to the well documented issues noted. After doing a bit of research, I finally took the plunge and picked up one of these.

    I have tuned FlySlot March's before which honestly didn't need much aside from tires, gluing the motor in and fixing the front steering to run very well. Same goes for the FlySlot Lotus and the Brabham.

    Time will tell, but I'm interested to see if the Williams FW07 can be competitive with the rest of these cars. So, I'm writing this as I go...







    Once we get the car off the plinth, we see what we have to work with:







    Where to start...I started with the most problematic area...the gearbox. I took the body off and turned the gears by hand. Surprisingly they weren't the worst I've seen. I put the car on the track under 6v and yikes, what a grumbly noise.

    So back to the work bench. I started by removing the gear box with the idler gear which is affixed by two philips head screws.

    Using a flat head screw driver and holding the spur gear in my other hand, I used the screw driver to pry and push off the smaller gear off the splined axle.



    I noticed straight off, that the axle hole in the plastic piece was tight and the axle didn't spin as freely as I'd like. So, out came my rounded jeweler's file to sand the opening / tunnel where the idler gear axle runs through.



    On top of the plastic piece, there is a very small hole. Which is supposed to be where you'd apply the oil. So, to fix this I used my smallest drill bit to open up the hole a bit more.

    Then after, I decided to make another hole in the opposite side:



    So, now we were ready to reassemble the gear box, but before that happened - I oiled and put a small amount of grease to help things spin.

    Before I pressed the smaller gear back on, I used an axle shim to help keep the smaller gears aligned.





    A word to the wise here, make sure the idler axle doesn't poke out beyond the small gear otherwise it'll foul the rear axle.

    Then before I screwed the gear box back into place, I put an axle shim under each screw (something I picked up from another forum) - believe it or not, raising the gear box helps the overall alignment with the spur gear and the pinion from the motor.





    So, for now, we'll leave the gearbox, and turn our attention to the motor. The motor cradle is pretty flimsy. I looked at the terminals to make sure the lead wires were soldered on well - which they were, thankfully - one less thing to do.

    But the motor wasn't really secure in the cradle. So, out came the Shoo Goo, and a toothpick, and presto - motor glued in.

    For those that haven't used Shoo Goo, it's easily removed if you need to.





    Up next, I turned the attention to the front end. First, out came the stiff as a rock "braids" and I use that term loosely. I put in some Slot.it braid as a replacement.





    That d@mned steerable front axle is a pain. So I started with re-routing the guide wires so they cross-cross, for a self-resetting guide (which is by the way, is the single biggest / best thing you can do in my opinion - think about the 2-3 seconds a marshal takes to rest your guide while reslotting your car in a race).





    The front axle assembly on these is quite flimsy and basically has as much vertical play you could ever want - which is also a problem.

    So fix the issue, out came to the Shoo Goo and with an ample amount I glued in the front assembly:



    Then I also applied a small amount of Shoo Goo underneath to help secure the front assembly:



    After the glued dried, I test fit the body and noticed that the lead wires that not when routed through the clip areas on the chassis (recall, I cried-crossed them for the self-resetting guide above) fouled with the driver's seat.



    So to address the issue out came my trusty dremel. With some careful grinding and then using the cut off disc...here was the result:





    Back to the front guide and it's steering. So now with the front assemble solid, I pried up the front tab that sits over the guide and makes the wheels turn in conjunction with the guide.



    Back to the braids. This is an area when I see a lot of people go wrong...with the braids pushing up the front nose to make it more susceptible to under steer deslots. I like to have the braids lie as flat as possible with a slight curl at the ends for good contact, using my needle nose pliers. I also like a little fraying at the end.





    While I was doing this, I had motor being broken in on my track running it at 6v for 18 min.



    Next, I work with the removed the rear axle and popped off the tires. And noticed straight away there was some excess plastic on the rims.



    So, off to the truer to clean up the rims:





    Then put came the appropriate Paul Gage specials:



    Then, the usual Gorilla Glue to glue the new tires on.







    A little lick on the inside of the tires for "water" to activate the glue. Slide the tires on, turn the, on the rims, and press roll to squeeze out the excess glue and clean up with a q-tip.



    As you can some of the bubbling starting, this is when the q-tip comes into play to clean things up.



    After letting the tires cure for a few hours, time for some truing. After progressing to finer sandpaper, then a bit of a wet sand, it was time to put the rear axle back on the car.

    Up next, not the sexiest stuff to do, but required nonetheless for body float. First up, sanding the edges of the chassis:



    Then filing open the body screw holes a tiny bit with my rounded jeweler's file

    But before we get to any laps, we'll need to break in and bed the gears using my favorite cheap fix...toothpaste.



    I usually run the gears in on 6v, anywhere from 1:30 to 2:30 min. Too long, and your gears will be toast. I like to listen - you should hear the gears quieter after 1:30, so use your judgment - less will always be better than more. This time I did it for 2 mins.

    Well, that's it, time to reassemble. Body screws to snug then backed off 1/4 turn. Oh, and a small dab of gear grease on the body screws so they ease in. :-)

    Pre-tuning, the car lapped 7.3 second range - which is way off a competitive car (March or Lotus) for this Fly F1 class. A 5.9 to 6 sec is the target range.

    So, the moment of truth...a few slow to moderate before some quick laps.

    My word, the noise is deafening! Sigh, partial fail. Seems like the shims on the idler gearbox moved the spur gear up to hit the rear deck. So how to fix it? Fight fire with fire! Put a shim on each rear body post. Glued on with a very small amount of Shoo Goo.



    But first, a little (and light - read careful) dremeling of the underside of the rear deck for extra clearance.

    Everything put back together now :-)



    Took about 10 laps, the noise is mostly gone. Here's the results:



    So a 5.57?! About .15 quicker than any other Fly, and about .25 to .30 quicker than comparable Lotus', Brabhams and Marches. Am I satisfied? Nope. I wanted a little less noise (just in case the spur gear was still rubbing). So I added one more shim on top of each of the rear body posts (that's two on each now).

    Back on the track...



    Okay, a 5.546. Let's call that good enough!

    So I guess my hypothesis was proven correct. These FW07's can be competitive. Much to the pending dismay of my fellow club members ;-)

    Hope this little write up helps some one give these little beauties a try.

    Cheers, eh!
    Last edited by Giddyup; 11-07-2016, 06:50 AM.

  • #2
    So what ya gonna do with the original tyres? I'm building a sprint car:-)

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice! 👍

      Comment


      • #4
        Great write up.

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        • #5
          Excellent tutorial Tom! And a heck of a lot of effort put into the presentation: very, very well done.

          I did somewhat similar work on the gears of mine but way less other things. Mine still has the steering (one of my only Fly F1's that did not "squint" (i.e. have terrible toe in). I did not even have to add weight! I was able to get mine quiet without having to add spacers either: it just makes an unusual whirring sound!

          It has ended up as being probably my best handling F1 car. I am not sure why that is: maybe just a natural balance?

          Some comparative Fly F1 lap times on Luf's former incarnation of the Targa:

          March: 7.723
          Lotus 78 Andretti: 7.549
          Lotus 78 Nilsson: 7.603
          Williams: 7.575

          Very nice cars, all of them! Note that a car that is capable of a 7.5 second lap on that track was very quick.

          Alwyn

          Comment


          • #6
            Great write up and pics Tom!

            As a group, we SCANCs don't race this class of cars, but a few guys do and it's good to know they can be made competitive with other Fly F1 cars. They're complex gear boxes have had a bad reputation for too long. And the cars are too good-looking not to race them.

            Cheers,

            Steve

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Guys - hopefully this little write-up helps someone take the plunge. It's a little more effort than normal tuning, but worth it in my opinion.


              Originally posted by Abarth Mike View Post
              So what ya gonna do with the original tyres? I'm building a sprint car:-)


              If you want them, send me a PM. They're just "track scenery" for now.

              Originally posted by SuperSlab View Post
              Excellent tutorial Tom! And a heck of a lot of effort put into the presentation: very, very well done.

              I did somewhat similar work on the gears of mine but way less other things. Mine still has the steering (one of my only Fly F1's that did not "squint" (i.e. have terrible toe in). I did not even have to add weight! I was able to get mine quiet without having to add spacers either: it just makes an unusual whirring sound!

              It has ended up as being probably my best handling F1 car. I am not sure why that is: maybe just a natural balance?

              Alwyn

              Thanks Alwyn, always appreciate your input as I know how "dedicated" you are to getting your cars to run well.


              As you say, there are a few different ways to sort these cars out. This really was an experiment and ended up being just what worked for me, hopefully it benefits others. I did want to be truthful in what I did and how a few steps (wiring fouling the driver seat & adding shims to the gearbox) added to the workload, but in the end achieved what I wanted (self-resetting guide & better gearbox mesh).


              There are two other walk-throughs out there on the web that Google will point you to. One only dealt with some of the issues the other was a bit confusing in its wording and the pictures were small and dimly lit - so hopefully, this little write-up is a bit more straight forward with more pics that are bigger - so it's easier to see what you can do.


              By the way, the steering toe in (or toe out as I have experienced) is indeed a pain. I did have a Lotus where it was fine. Then one shunt and it was all cockeyed. At least with this glued-in set up, my front wheels are straight as an arrow and whole assembly can withstand a shunt without being dislodged or put out of alignment.


              (A word to the wise, carefully align the front wheels when you glue and let it set that way; otherwise it'll be more of a pain to pull out the Shoo Goo with such delicate parts).


              By the way, I agree wholeheartedly on the balance of this car. With the motor right in the middle at an angle, it seems just right.


              I haven't bothered to add any weight either. I believe she still weighs in at an anorexic 59 grams. I guess I could add a gram or two to help with high speed stability, but it's more about me not over-driving it!


              Cheers, eh!

              Comment


              • #8
                What an excellent tutorial Mr. Tom.

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