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Aurora control plus controllers

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  • Aurora control plus controllers

    Hi SCI fam, been a while.... anyhow I purchase these Aurora control plus controllers, and I want to make sure I'm getting the wiring right, I want to use the existing plug as I run 4 wall warts... I've never used a resistor or braking system before so I want to make sure that that works.
    thanks in advance

    Keep it in the slot

  • #2
    I am not familiar with the plugs that set type tracks use. This is how club tracks are wired.


    • #3
      AFX set controller plugs only have two wires, IIRC, white and black. And AFX power pack plugs are reversible, so presumably that feature would be eliminated by wiring for brakes. I'd imagine all set plugs have two wires, although I have never cut into Tyco or Lifelike ones.

      Some of us with an all traction magnet fleet just snip the red wire and let the traction magnets do their thing. Obviously if running T-Jets one might WANT the red wire. I yield to people like Mr. RichD who has more knowledge about this in his little pinky than I will ever possess. Happy running!


      • #4
        I see that orange plug with two wires. The quick and easy thing to do is to put tape over the controller red wire and connect the black and white controller wires to the plug wires. In that case there will be no brake circuit. Most HO cars do not need any brakes. My controller has adjustable brakes and they can also be completely defeated. I have a few boxstock T-Jet cars that have relatively weak magnets and I run those with a touch of brakes, otherwise I leave the brakes off. You could add a brake circuit by connecting the red controller wire to the right hand track rail looking in the direction of travel. In that case you would have to be careful about how you plugged in, if you got the plug backwards you would have a dead short across the power supply.
        If you expect that sometime in the future you might want to use the track for club style racing you would be better off dumping the set plugs and jacks and having proper driver's stations with standard screw post connections for alligator clips.


        • #5
          tdady216: .... "I want to make sure that it works."


          Connect a multi meter to the red and black wires. Set the meter to read resistance/ohms. Leave the trigger off, so the brakes are on. Turn the brake adjustment knob gradually in both directions, and watch the meter. The reading should ramp up and down smoothly. For giggles, let us know what the upper and lower reading is.


          • #6
            I thought that I had saved a picture of the insides of that Aurora controller, but I could not find it. If I recall correctly that control is not part of the brake circuit, if so moving the knob would have no effect on the ohm reading. I think that the is an extra variable resistor in the control circuit to get adjustable sensitivity of a sort.


            • #7
              "Hitting the skids"

              I cant remember either. If the pot is in series with the primary resistor for tailoring sensitivity, then I'd be curious as to what the third wire is for?

              Tdady's instruction/diagram shows the third wire labled as "brake". Without something to feather the dynamic effect, it can be quite abrupt.
              Last edited by model murdering; 07-01-2020, 08:09 AM.


              • #8
                With most HO cars you would probably turn faster laps with the brake wire disconnected. The earliest T-Jets had a fair amount of coast if I recall correctly and might benefit from a modest amount of brakes. It is easy enough to add an external brake control. I will try to figure out when this controller was offered.


                • #9
                  I was able to find some information on the controller, it is circa 1974. The resistor with the wiper is 50 ohms and the resistor for the the adjustment was 80 ohms. I am not certain what the circuit looks like. There was an old thread on another BB where someone tried to take measurements, but had trouble with that.Connecting an ohm meter to white and black and varying the adjustment with the trigger pulled just enough to contact the beginning of the 50 ohm resistor would tell us something.


                  • #10
                    I finally stumbled across some pictures of the Control Plus controller. The indicated range is 8.3 to 30.9 ohms. There are two possible ways to wire up the two resistors, in one case the extra 80 ohm resistor is wired in parallel with the main 50 ohm resistor. In that case you would have a maximum of 30.8 ohms. Since the second resistor is variable I don't know what the lowest setting might be. To get 8.3 ohms it would have to be 10 ohms. The other scheme has the two resistors wired in series with the two wipers being connected. I was too lazy to run the numbers for that since the published numbers match the first scheme well enough. 30.9 ohms would be low for many HO cars. Be aware that a controller of this sort will not have a linear response. At the low end of the trigger throw the controller might be set at 30 ohms but as it got closer to the high end of the trigger throw it would act more like a straight 50 ohm controller. If you were to dial in a faster low end response the effect would be greater.
                    I did build my own controller of this sort using a rheostat as the second resistor and I also included a switch to take the rheostat out of the circuit, the main resistor is 45 ohms. I did test the controller, but I did not like the response, so I only use it with the rheostat switched off.