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T-Jet and AFX Controller Recommendation

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  • T-Jet and AFX Controller Recommendation

    So I want to start running T-Jet and AFX pancake cars on my large track. I use an Astron 30-amp power supply with variable voltage to 28V. I will run stock chassis (some with Mean Green arms) and more modern Dash arms.

    Will the 90-ohm Professor Motor controller be a good choice? I have some 60-ohm Parma controllers and they are acceptable but am thinking the 90-ohm PM may be better.

    Any guidance is appreciated.

  • #2
    I have been using the Professor Motor Club Racer Pro electronic controllers. They have turned out to be a great investment. They are much more versatile than a fixed-ohmage controller. I have used them for every kind of HO and 1/32nd scale car. They have potentiometers for 'sensitivity' control and a 'brake' control with enough range for pretty much any production car. And they feel comfortable in my hand.

    I bought mine on the recommendation of Gerry Cullan, who has done extensive and very professional evaluations of slotcar controllers over the years. He considers them to be a very good compromise of performance versus cost. Yes, they cost US$130.00, and that is a sizable investment. But if you were okay with the cost of a 30-amp variable power supply to run pancake cars you can probably afford it.

    Ed Bianchi


    • #3
      I have a Parma with a 90 ohm, and a 95 ohm os3 non-linear resistor. I found that they weren't really right for any of my t-jets, and the setups can be pretty different (all stock, Fray, mean green tuff one). I think adjustable sensitivity is the way to go.

      If you don't need adjustable brakes, the OS3 HO Lite might work. It's the cheapest transistor controller that I know of. But looking at the pictures, it looks nice.

      I haven't used one, so I can't give an opinion.


      • #4
        I bought DS 60/90/120 ohm controllers. They seem to handle most everything, but my track is much smaller than yours.


        • #5
          Thanks guys.

          Ed - I have those PM controllers for my 1:32 track but have not tried on the HO track yet. I really like them on my 1:32 track because of the many different motors/chassis of the various manufacturers.

          Do you know what the equivalent resistance is for the sensitivity extremes on the PM?


          • #6
            Most of the guys I know who race stock T-jets use a 90 ohm controller. I don't know about hopped up motors or AFX.


            • #7
              A controller for casual running is one thing and one for serious club style racing is something else. For regular use most people would be happy with a 90 ohm controller with T-Jet type car. If I had to use a resistor controller I would use a 60 ohm because I like a controller with a faster response. It looks like One Stop Slot Shop is no longer offering replacement resistors. Parma Economy controllers are also out of production, but replacement resistors are still available for now. Club racers would often be willing to spend a lot to shave a tenth of a second off of their lap times. Electronic controllers do not have an equivalent ohm value, a well designed electronic controller should be able to run any sort of HO car. HO, 1/32nd and 1/24th cars put different demands on a controller, so it is best to pick something that is designed specifically for the scale that you are racing. The PM HO controllers are a good choice for an entry level electronic controller, get one that has both sensitivity and brake controls. I have used many different HO controllers over the years and I run everything from boxstock T-Jets to Restricted Open Cars. Now I am using an OS3 All Pro controller for all of the classes that are run at 18-20 volts and a specially ordered Difalco Genesis for Gravity and G-Jet cars that are run at 12 volts.
              Be aware the electronic controllers can be sensitive to the way that your track is wired. Most electronic controllers are made to work with what is referred to as positive polarity and a some only work with a track that is wired for brakes.
              Before you spend a lot on a controller it would be a good idea to try one out.


              • #8
                I see that the Professor Motor Club Racer Pro electronic controllers are recommended for 14 - 19 volts. Do they work at 12 volts for gravity cars and at 20 for t-jets?.




                • #9
                  I don't know anyone that races with a PM controller, one of the guys in my club has four of them that he uses for IROC races at 18.5 volts. All of my gravity cars, with the exception of one Direwolf car are set up for braided wood tracks. Since my own track is a MaxTrax I am not even certain how my OS3 All Pro works with Gravity cars at 12 volts, I will have to do some experimenting with the Direwolf. I may not get a chance to run on a wood track this year. The OS3 has a much wider range of adjustment than a PM controller.


                  • #10

                    I use my Professor Motor Club Racer Pro controllers on 12 volts all the time. Running both HO and 1/32nd cars. When the grandkids come over I dial it back to 6 volts. No issues.

                    I have also used them at 18 volts when racing certain classes on the HOCOC tracks. Again, no issues.

                    I can't speak to higher voltages than that.

                    I did have one PM controller whose brake potentiometer failed. When I installed a replacement pot, that I had purchased from Professor Motor, the leads on it were too long, shorted out against the heat sink and damaged the pot. Professor Motor replaced the damaged pot for free, but the replacement pot also had too-long leads that would have contacted the heat sink. Trimming the leads avoided the problem. The failed pot and the quality issue with the replacement pot were the only bad experiences I have had with my two PM controllers.

                    Professor Motor customer service acknowledged that the leads on the brake pots need to be trimmed, and claimed that is done before they are packed and shipped. Apparently they had some in inventory which were not trimmed, and may yet do.

                    It is way unlikely that anyone on this forum will have a similar experience, but then...

                    Ed Bianchi


                    • #11
                      I did try the OS3 All Pro controller at 12 volts with both a Direwolf gravity car and a Wizzard Fusion Brass car. The Direwolf needed to be choked back, using the choke feature built into the OS3 or my Difalco Genesis did not work very well. In both cases using enough choke resulted in the sensitivity control being out of range. I have a choke box with diodes that worked well with the Difalco, but not as well with the OS3. With the choke box included the voltage was 8.5. The Fusion Brass car worked well with the Difalco, but I could not find any combination of adjustments with the OS3 that I liked as much.
                      That being said those results could easily be different for another person with a different driving style, with different cars and on a different track.