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Loose AFX Body

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  • Loose AFX Body

    I have a fairly decent Aurora Datsun AFX body which doesn't want to snap tightly onto a chassis any more because the sides have spread slightly apart. Is there a method to get the body tight again?


  • #2
    You could try squeezing the body inward being careful not to use too much pressure, it would help to warm the body a little with a hair dryer. You could also put a couple of layers of masking tape on the body mount ears.


    • #3
      One of the tricks used to fix a warped plastic chassis in 1/32nd scale cars is to place it in a flat metal pan, hold it down with rare-earth magnets, fill the pan with water and heat it in an oven for a number of hours. You need to make sure the chassis stays immersed in the water.

      If you have a scrap body you could test this same trick. What I would do is get a block of some heat-resistant, water-proof material that will fit loosely inside the body. With the block in place clamp the sides of the body to it, immerse the body in water and heat it for at least several hours.

      This may or may not work, depending on what plastic the body was made from. With luck the body will retain its slightly distorted shape when you remove the clamps. Then it should snap properly on the chassis. One hopes.

      You should be able to use rubber bands to do the clamping. Wrap the rubber bands around the entire body and block. Rubber is one of the few materials that contracts when heated, rather than expanding, so warming it will not reduce the clamping pressure.

      I'd make sure the scrap body was made by the same manufacturer. A body made by another company may have been made from a different type or grade of plastic.

      Even so, there is a possibility that it'll work on the scrap body but not on your good body. Things can just be cussed that way.

      Ed Bianchi


      • #4
        Here is a variation on that if you have a spare chassis. Put the body on the spare chassis and wrap rubber bands around the body. Boil water in a small pan, take that off of the heat and drop in the body/chassis. Let everything cool slowly.
        Some old bodies are known to get brittle, so this method may be safer than the one that I first proposed.


        • #5
          Sometimes loose bodies make for better handling.

          Do you have a tight body to compare lap times against, using a control chassis?


          • #6
            Hi Joe, the "order" is very important. What ever ya do, dont start shoving that ancient, creaky, shunkren, plastic around; until you warm it gradually first. Keep in mind that a bad set or a warp didnt just occur, nor will you correct it by waving a magic wand across it. I always consider that it may take more than one attempt.

            Once warmed, I prefer side clamping to push the offending doors in, rather than mashing the delicate green house area for no reason.

            AFX went thin with the plastic by design, so the vast majority of their bodies are inherently flimsy. The whole point is to ease all the tension in the body caused by aging/shrinkage as a whole, before you start wrenching on it or applying the rubber band "porta power" to re-direct it.

            Good luck! Let us know how it works out


            • #7
              I like to run with the body a little loose, if the body is very loose the handling may be erratic, especially if the body rubs on the tires.


              • #8
                Loose is almost always better, but not to the point where it comes off in a corner marshal's hands, or worse -- while it's running down the track!
                I usually hold it in some warm water, and then hold it in some cold water. There are different methods, as presented here.


                • #9
                  Some bodies will end up twisting on the chassis with very little force. Our club races magnatraction, but the body mounts must remain stock. What we decided to allow was the body mounts to be "boxed". You can use some thin styrene pieces to close the ends of the body mounts. This helps keep the body on straight. This will only work if the body is not really loose on the chassis. You can find a picture of the modification on page 21 of our rules here: