SPRITE SPX builds

[DrDiff]

A place to discuss your builds for the SPX class.

[DrDiff]

I think I found a good set of holes for the build...

[VTECFOUR]

Here's mine so far.





Body work, paint and detailing to go.

Dan

[DrDiff]

May have found a driver...



Definately not Danica Patrick.

[VTECFOUR]

Not sure what # I'm going with but I've finally put on a body color after three rounds of priming and sanding.

I'm pleased with the results.









I'll let the paint cure and then some polishing, decaling, paint detailing (maybe blue headlights?) and Future finish.

I hope everyone gets as much enjoyment out of their Sprite build as I have.

Dan

[JT Previa]

Dan,

That yellow looks good with the dark blue accents. And that driver just loves the camera!

JT

[DrDiff]

Looking great. But it needs something.. maybe a blue stripe(s) to berak up that camel yellow?

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[VTECFOUR]

I'm pretty sure the camel yellow won't be so overwhelming once I:

- paint the headlights blue
- add the photo etched brooklands screen and leather bonnet straps and buckles
- paint the grille's top lip in chrome aluminum and and black ink the mouth
- add and paint the small modeling details including gas cap and rear licence plate light in silver and tailights in red
- add the numbers and sponsor decals

Dan

[JT Previa]

A similar color car, looks pretty good in a simple paint scheme!

Have you tried Bare Metal Foil? Great for the shiny bits.

JT

[VTECFOUR]

The car's ready to go though after paint detailing and installing those little signal and tail lights and photo etch pieces, I'm a little hesitant about running it hard in the proxy. Those little bits would be impossible to find in a driving off.







I could always send a revised Bugeye 1.



Hmmm. Decisions.

Dan in Canada

[DrDiff]

Started on my chassis build today. Tried something new, a stepped guide mount. Unfortunately I have to start over on that part again. Soldering the axle colet to the plate went fine but, when I tried to solder the two plates everything came undone.

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[JT Previa]

after paint detailing and installing those little signal and tail lights and photo etch pieces, I'm a little hesitant about running it hard in the prox

Been there, done that (done that twice actually!). But there is an answer:

After finishing the pretty-boy airplane livery for Bob, I thought I should try and make something a bit more tolerant of the rigors of proxy racing. So, I looked at...

http://http://slotcarillustrated.com...t=32272&page=4

So put a number on that black Sprite or get another body and build another one!

By the way, the car looks great!

when I tried to solder the two plates everything came undone.

Don't cha hate that!

Can you clamp a heat sink (a piece of aluminum) between the two areas: can absorb the heat before getting to other joint!

JT

[DrDiff]

Chassis is getting there. Motor needs mounting. Then body mounts and body work time. This one can go either HP or SPX. The biggest lesson learned this time is that paste flux works better than liquid flux.

I found out that BWA. 200 series and 300 series are actually the same width. It is just the inner rib location is different. The 200 series uses a hub design while the 300 series are hub less.

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[JT Previa]

Dr D,

Thats a hot tip about the BWA wheels. Good job moving your project along!

JT

[alexis in greece]

A few minutes ago a box arrived at work containing 2 Sprite bodies,from munter,first impression,very good mouldings.
Building to start during the weekend,1 for this proxy 1 for Wolves Le Mans event in May 2013.Both in Donna Mae Mimms' pink,the Wolves one is for my daughter,she's been allways asking for a pink car to race,for the 2012 event i build for Mimms' TR3 for her