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A modified "Pit Row Special"

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  • #16
    I don't have any experience with AFX banked track, but usually banked curve pieces don't easily connect to flat curve pieces. The transition from flat to bank requires twisting the flat piece along its length, which is resisted by the curved shape of the track. If the pieces are forced together and glued, the ends of the unit will naturally be wider apart than if the track surface had the same geometry all the way around. The pieces will not naturally sit flat on the table.

    The plastic track allows some flex, but the AFX snap together track connections may not be strong enough to resist the tension and to set level on the table surface.

    That said, you probably could glue the track pieces into a unit and screw the ends down to the table or a flat connecting brace if necessary to make the unit line up and sit flat with the remaining flat track.

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    • #17
      This uses 3 12" banked curves and 2 9" banked curves at the right end. The blue section is banked

      The bank/flat transition from the 9" bank through the 9" straight to the 9" flat curve is questionable. It would be virtually a reverse bank.

      ho 6.gif
      Last edited by thatguy01; 03-07-2021, 08:07 AM.

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      • #18
        This has come a long way from that first post I made. Thank you so much for the help with this. I like the banked right end even though I'm modeling the desert, it seems like a fun feature to be able to pour on the power through one end and hit the bank at the other. Thank banked part will just be part of a wash... even though this layout reminds me a lot of the Daytona GP circuit. I'd like to see the one above as a 4x8 layout that more closely looks like the Dayton road circuit. The above really reminds me of that.

        I think the previous one more closely fits the terrain, although I'd really like to try the one with the banks even if it's a tight fit on the 9" bank transition.

        As you can see, the place I'm modeling has desert right up to the road - don't stick your hand out the window! I'm hoping to be able to build a 0.75" border on each side to fudge it so the cars can make the corners at speed. 20210307_113740small.jpg 20210307_114342small.jpg

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        • #19
          Here's something that combines some of what you did, sort of combining the bank (right lower corner) and the ideas from the other stuff. Mixing curves is not so hard once you get the hang of this very primitive windows software. 34x77 inches, I think it would just fit my door.

          Screenshot from 2021-03-10 06-39-39.png
          Attached Files
          Last edited by boxxofrobots; 03-10-2021, 04:41 AM.

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          • #20
            I'm also considering just making a lightweight table from 1x6 and 2" foam 40"x8'. This will allow a banked curve all the way around turn 1 & 2. Thsi says there will be a 4mm "gap" (it looks more like an offset). Is this generally small enough to be "fudged?"

            Screenshot from 2021-03-10 08-45-49.png

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            • #21
              What about 17mm?

              Screenshot from 2021-03-10 19-58-59.png

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              • #22
                Old Tucson Speed Park began as Old Tuscon Raceway, a 3/8 mile flat oval with a high bank curve at one end, where it is built into the foothill of a small mountain. Old Tucson Raceway opened in 1946, just after the war, and was a great racing spot for many years. However, construction of the nearby Phoenix International Speedway in 1964 took much of the thunder from local speedways in the area. By 1970 it was sold to a SCCA sports car club, who added a 1/4 mile infield for road racing and renamed the track to Old Tucson Speed Park . By the 1980s it had again fallen into disrepair, and has been abandoned nearly 40 years.

                Screenshot from 2021-03-13 07-29-25.png
                Old Tucson Speed Park fits on two 3.5'x4.5' sections. These are joined securely in the middle by overlapping 1x6" boards, but it can be disassembled quickly and moved to a new location while easily fitting in the elevator or the back of a van. The track will sit on two 4' foldable tables from walmart or something. It's made from 1x6" lumber and a 2" foam insulation base. I'm thinking of using painted polyfill for scenery, it seems to look pretty realistic and would be easy to poke small trees through into the foam.


                I really want to thank thatguy01 who helped me get my thinking out of the proverbial box. I'll still be building this from the Super International box set, but I' be buying lots of 12" and 15" radius curves as well.
                Attached Files

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                • #23

                  i think all of these are nice circuits that would be fun to race. The banked ends should transition to flat,

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                  • #24
                    I have a layout plan with borders now. I think this one looks most "natural" in the infield, and plenty of straight for the banking.

                    Screenshot from 2021-03-20 18-36-40.png
                    Attached Files

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                    • #25
                      A friend has convinced me the value of having a four lane layout even though I live alone. He's convinced once I get this thing set up I'll have no problem finding friends to hang and race with. So, I have now come up with an 11 meter 4 lane track rather than a 13 meter 2 lane. Also, got to use the 18" curves! I'm also amazed how expensive even in ho this stuff can be. By the time I've bought the Super International race set and the expansion track pack there's still another hundred to go.

                      Finally starting to get the hang of tracker 2000. Sad but expected so much abandonware in the windows world. If they had just shared their source code, this could still be updating today.

                      Anyway, now I have a 4x12 layout that uses as few 9" radius as possible and uses all available radius except those stupid 3" hairpins that cars just hang on.

                      The dots denote track sensors. I've designed track sensors that tell a central machine when a car is detected at that sensor. In this way, detailed stats of each part of the track can be used to track sounds relative to cars, to detect when and where a car has gone off the track, or to see what parts of the track you need to focus most on improving. It also opens the door to "digital ho", for example when there is track rain, rather than swapping tires the controller simply sets the car speed a little lower, but intermittently applies an extra 50% throttle, which hopefully will set you off the track gently when you hit "ice.". So you can exploit this on straights, but can you risk going fast in the corners? Just an idea.


                      Screenshot from 2021-03-31 06-53-49.png
                      Attached Files

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                      • #26
                        4x13... track on its way. An amazing amount actually for 4x13 feet. 46 foot 4 lane lap, well anyway if this one sucks I'll have plenty to do something else!

                        Screenshot from 2021-04-02 14-15-37.png
                        Attached Files

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                        • #27
                          lmao the takeover begins. The whole thing right now weighs about ten pounds. It will get heavier with more foam, but will also get stronger laterally.

                          Or it may all collapse on the floor. Either way it's still fun.

                          Lesson learned the hard way: peel off the plastic backing BEFORE you use more foam. Thankfully I caught it quickly but it was still a sticky mess to clean up.

                          20210514_140858.jpg 20210425_150417.jpg 20210515_153451.jpg Screenshot from 2021-05-15 16-40-21.png
                          Or so it goes.
                          Last edited by boxxofrobots; 05-15-2021, 03:47 PM.

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                          • #28
                            20210513_154035.jpg 20210522_142556.jpg

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                            • #29
                              I'm hoping I can get dome advice on this? I'm about to start building the terrain and I need to know where to put drops. So, here is the plan: Every red dot is a power tap; every green dot is a timing sensor. For the time being my plan is to use dead zone detection. Note that the layout is built in three sections, the black lines show the joint areas. I'd like to place these timing sensors as shown below, and would really appreciate any feedback. Screenshot from 2021-06-01 19-30-11.png y'all might have.

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