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1) Track call button -- clips to track retaining wall. Can be moved left or right.
2) Terminals for controller alligator clips -- #10 machine screws.
3) XLR connector socket for controller. Verify correct wiring. Wiring may vary with club.
4) Lane direction reverse switch. Double pole double throw toggle switch.
5) Lane fuse holder -- 5 amp fast blow fuse.
6) Utility bucket -- holds controller, lane labels, whatever. Colored to match lane color.
NOTE: Do not connect two controllers at the same time. Causes electrical issues.
There are tons of options for drivers' station design. This is just what I did.
Thanks Ed. That is what I am looking for, something different than the standard, nothing wrong with the standard, just looking for something different.
1/32 rally track: 50F46660-3D23-4975-840A-F47748A76F90.jpeg
8-32 bolts recessed into fascia. Yes, there are four. Fourth was connection for old AC2Car connection.
Controller holder is model railroad throttle holder.
If I might add to the conversation - if I had to do over again using XLR jacks and plugs, I would incorporate a switch in the brake circuit so I could eliminate the brakes. I find at some times, or with some cars, I would like to have no brakes and let the car coast when power is taken off. Granted, I use basic PM controllers. Higher end models may have brake sensitivity knobs to do the same thing.
Here's what mine look like. I recently upgraded these. You can connect with alligator clips or an XLR plug. The toggle switch is for the brakes for either type of connection and the black button is the track call button which can be turned off or on at the race director station.
The color of the station matches the lane (red, blue, yellow and green) and is wrapped over the track's frame so you can tell which lane a person is on from the race controller or a marshal's position. The controller fits in a beverage/french fry holder made for real cars - cheap and simple and works well. The shelf above allows for any cars or equipment one might need during their driving session.
Here are top and bottom views of one of mine. Its a modified version of the Slot Car Corner drivers station. The switch is a 6 Amp DC rated circuit breaker. The relay is an automotive type rated for 80A. The terminal blocks at the top of the picture tie the drivers station board to the main track wiring. The power wires shown are #14 AWG stranded copper.
Wicker Bill, if you are using a controller with an XLR plug that does not have a brake control you can make an adapter that does not have the brake terminals connected. That would be OK with an electronic controller that does not need a brake connection. Since my controllers all have adjustable brakes I don't need an adapter like that, but I have one with a couple of diodes between the white connections to drop the voltage a little for overpowered cars.
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