Scalextric for beginners.

[Slotict]

Sets range from $100 to $215, not so much because of more track, but for better cars and more accessories.

Controllers are chintzy, as with most sets. Power is inadequate, as with most sets. Cars are great runners, probably the best available today. Less expensive set cars have less detail and are more robust than the more expensive set cars. The two USA sets combine to create a 4 lane Watkin's Glen or a larger, more varied two lane track. Combining the two sets will also net you 4 cars and 2 power supplies.

Track is good for 1:32 scale with 3 inch lanes. Fender to fender, or wheel to wheel, racing is quite exciting. Magnetic attraction is strong on Classic, slightly less on Sport. Classic is grainy and Sport is smooth. The track is flexible up to the limit of the rails bending. Rail connections can be problematic, but the rails are easily reshaped to ensure good connections.

Cars are among the best RTR cars available today. Perfect for beginners.

Overall Track is pretty tough but the rails can be destroyed. A nice footprint for 1:32 with the tightest curves available as well as big #4 curves for some high speed cornering. Banked turns now available in #2 and #3 bends. My friends look forward to "those tight turns."

Two different borders available in the USA, sandtraps with curbs or a flat black border. Curbs and guardrails available for straights and #2 outers/#3 inners.

Plug-in power taps available for larger layouts.

Electronic 0.10 second lap timer / counter available. RMS brings accuracy to 1/100, digital to 1/1000 with optical sensors.

Rand

[dr vanski]

Great summary of the Sport track system Rand.

One thing to note r.e. borders is that the black ones have a flat profile vs. the rounded rumble strip of the tan borders. The black borders are a bit better to powerslide around as they don't upset the balance of the car as much as the rumble strip.

Many SCX accessories will work with Sport track. My personal fave being SCX bridge supports. On elevated track sections with borders, tape the borders to the track from underneath with wide packing tape. This makes for a much more stable structure.

Sport track is great for rug racers as it is quite flexible, and can be stepped on without breaking.

[B52RN]

To add my own experience with Scaley Sport track to Rand's excellent summary and DocV's observations:

Track border: The Scalextric set that I started out with came with the tan borders (don't know if any sets come with the black borders). As I expanded my track, I continued with the tan borders because I actually didn't realize that the black borders were available until I'd already made a substantial investment in the tan. Had I known about the black borders and, as DocV pointed out, that they did not have the hump created by the rumble strip, I would have gone the black border route. If, aesthetically, you like the look of the tan, you could always paint them.

As DocV also pointed out, if you have any elevated portions of track, borders will not stay on unless somehow secured. Many folks use tape, another way to do this is to use foamcore board cut in the outline of your track & borders and placed under the track. This not only supports and levels the borders but provides rigidity to the elevated track. (I just recently posted pictures of my track in this forum under topic "R.A.S.S." if you want to see an example)

Lap Counter: The Scaley lap counter is fine when it works. A consistent problem that I and others have had is that, after not too long a period of use, it will start to miss laps. It can be adjusted, which is described in detail elsewhere on this site, but it is just one of those things that I think Scalextric could easily do better.

Controllers: Rand was kind in his assesment of the controllers as "chintzy". If you plan to do any kind of serious racing you will not be happy with the controllers and should plan to purchase some better quality controllers.

I've highlighted a few negatives here, but am quick to add I'm totally happy with my track. Admittedly, it's the only brand I've had the opportunity to run on so, at least for now, ignorance is bliss!

Neil8)

[dr vanski]

A consistent problem that I and others have had is that, after not too long a period of use, it will start to miss laps.

I've posted a fix for Scalextric lap counter and RMS car detection track here.

[JWEBDRD]

The Black and Tan

I have tried both the black and tan borders, as well as the old red and white, and scx green.

I had the tan with rumble strip on some corners. I remember when I got the cadillac LMPs the cars would fishtale over the rumble strip, spin wheels for a bit and take off. I really liked that, it was fun!

Don't forget, You can use your Hot Glue Gun to fix the borders to the track.

[Scaleracing]

Track Code Letters and part numbers.

Code Letter A C---- - Power Base

Code Letter J C8201 - R1 - Hairpin Curve 90 °


Code Letter K C8202 - R1 - Inner Curve 45 °


Code Letter V C8278 - R1 - Inner Curve 22.5 °


Code Letter E C8203 - R2 Racing Curve Crossover 90 °


Code Letter C C8206 - R2 Standard Curve 45 °


Code Letter U C8234 - R2 Standard Curve 22.5 °


Code Letter N C8204 - R3 Outer Curve 22.5 °


Code Letter S C8235 - R4 Outer Curve 22.5 °


Code Letter T C8236 - Short Straight 78mm


Code Letter F C8200 - Quarter Straight 87mm


Code Letter D C8207 - Half Straight 175mm


Code Letter B C8205 - Standard Straight 350mm


Code Letter R C8222 - Classic to Sport Track Conversion 175mm (2)


Code Letter P C8210 - Straight Crossover 90 °



Code Letters L/M C8211 - Leap Straight Ramp up + Ramp down


Code Letters G/H C8246 - Side Swipe Straights


Code Letter CB C8296 - Radius 2 10 ° Banked Curve 45 °


Code Letter NNB C8297 - Radius 3 10 ° Banked Curve 45 °


Code Letter W C8295 - Elevated Crossover 90 ° or 180 ° 233mm


Code Letter X C7007, C7010 - Lane Change Curves Radius 2 90 °


Code Letter Y C7008, C7009 - Lane Change Curves Radius 2 90 °


Code Letter Z1 C???? - Lane Change Sensor Half Straight 175mm


More info coming soon.

Cheers

Alan

EDIT: Added a few more codes and parts. Alan and Rand

[S Sawtelle]

Re: Track Code Letters and part numbers.

Short Straight (C8236) = "T"

Steve

[keysandslots]

Re: Track Code Letters and part numbers.

I have put this stuff into an Excel spreadsheet, so it can be sorted and combined with the output from Tracker 2000 (with a bit of cutting and pasting of course). I don't know if there's a place on the forum to store this sort of thing but if anyone is interested, feel free to drop me a note.

Randy

[Slotict]

Re: Track Code Letters and part numbers.

Here is a link to the EXCEL spreadsheet from Randy keysandslots Scalextric Letter Codes


Any and all additions are welcome. Slotict@UX5490.US I will keep the post here updated as well.

Rand

[Scaleracing]

Re: Track Code Letters and part numbers.

Please post additions here,

SCI is a great sourse of information, but only if we post here.

Cheers

Alan

[rooty]

WOW !
What a Great site !
I looked everywhere for this !
I know where to look from now on !
SLOTCAR ILLUSTRATED

[svanaken]

Here is a link to the EXCEL spreadsheet from Randy keysandslots Scalextric Letter Codes


Any and all additions are welcome. Slotict@UX5490.US I will keep the post here updated as well.

Rand

Thanks for providing that. Now, does anyone know where I can find the length of each of these pieces to figure out lane length?

Scott

[dr vanski]

Ultimate Racer 3 software would let you figure it out if only by laying out your track with it's designer module, then double click on one piece in the track and the measurements will come up. Otherwise, put a string in the slot and measure it. Lane length varies on curved pieces.

DV

[svanaken]

Ultimate Racer 3 software would let you figure it out if only by laying out your track with it's designer module, then double click on one piece in the track and the measurements will come up. Otherwise, put a string in the slot and measure it. Lane length varies on curved pieces.

DV

Well actually I was trying to avoid the expense of what would be one-shot software or the time required using the 'string to measure slot' method.

Thought someone would have already done this and have it available.

Scott

[dr vanski]

Ultimate Racer 3 is donationware. Bear in mind that the lane length of each curved piece is different. In effect, the work has been done by the author of UR3.